Not a problem. Spoke with four different companies today trying to determine the best route.

I really want at least 13:1 compression but I may have to settle for 12.5:1. Hoping for 500whp NA through a TH400... and being able to pull the tires an inch or two :P

 

noob question is this about swapping an american motor into a 350z? is that even a good idea?

 

Swapping American motors in Imports is just dumb... I would never recommend doing such a thing.

 

i know, i cant stand reliable power myself but on a serious note, yes it is. i cant find 1 bad idea about it. you gain over 60% more motor displacement, simpler motor thats been tested and put through every type of racing, a much more supportive (and cheaper) aftermarket, and gobs of torque. this sounds like a horrible idea.



alas, guys, just got the sikky harness back today. do not toss your oem nissan sensors. just as quamen did with his diy kit, sikky reuires you to utilize the oem coolant sensor (which threads right into the back of the driver head-as opposed tot he oem ls1 port up front), and also the nissan oem oil pressure sensor which requires an adaptor. this is just for the stock console gauges (oil/coolant) to work.

 

Not sure if its been asked already but what final drive gear is best suited for this application?

 

Completely depends on your setup and things such as:
1) How much power are you producing
2) How you intend to drive the car (Drag/Roadrace)
3) The transmission you select and even which version of the transmission
4) The tire size you run

The transmission plays the largest role in my opinion. Even the T56 manual transmission has a couple different variations of gear ratios. Then there is still the TH350, TH400, 4L60E and 4L80E.

 

I did not even think about the t56 variations out there. I would mostly use the car as a daily driver with occasional runs at the drag strip, that being said t56 is the route i would take. I will read up on that. i would like to get the 4.0 put on now as i save up for the swap but if the transmission configuration varies then ill wait.

 

1Sick, You bring up a good question. I plan on getting into road racing. I think my 3.5 final will be a good choice. I'm just not sure what ratios I should get.

 

im running a 3.3 vlsd, but i have a larger turbo and am praying for traction

 

Finally got around to finishing bbs350's throttle pedal last night.

Going to make the adapter today for mounting the stock VQ oil pressure sensor in the LS block for him also.

 

Pictures of the LS to VQ oil pressure adapter for bbs350z







Even though the sensor is BSPT, I added an o-ring for additional safety against leakage.

 

Do I need this for the LS2 swap? If so, please make two and I will buy one Just an FYi, the defi oil pressure gauge is the same thread pitch as a the stock Nissan gauge.

does anyone have some pics on the Master Cylinder Kit from Sikky? I am opening boxes and will say that the instructions are somewhat lacking. I am very interested in the location of the snap ring bbs was having trouble with. I will try and do a DIY thread on this when I do it.

Also, where did you guys drill the hole for the line in the firewall and how long did you leave the stock and Sikky hoses? It just needs to be long enough to go from the cylinder to the firewall right?

 

If you are referring to the pedal assembly, it depends if you went with a DBW or cable TB.

If you are referring to the oil sensor adaptor I posted pictures of, I would consider making another. PM me for details if you need one.

 

PM sent!!

If anyone has pictures from there SIKKY component installs please post them up. Thanks

 

BEware, Just got update on buddies car, AC will not work in G35 with LS2..

I'm late, nvm

 

cass, the install was simple, however you must swap out the rod from the oem nissan cylinder to the new wilwood one. the install is straightforward. remove the oem master from the car (is easy to get to, both from the clutch pedal area and the engine bay area. swap parts and reinstall. ill snap pics tomorrow in the bright day light so you can see what im talking about.

and as far as ryans work, the stuffs top notch. he is now my go to guy for customization lol, and my ls guru, and parttime hubby

 

With the issue of making brackets for the Z's power steering and a/c... do they have to be an exact distance from the crank to work correctly or does it matter in terms of just making a bracket and getting a belt to fit for the modification? I can source a shop here to make them for me unless someone is already working to get some made.

Also how is the wiring service from SIKKY... what does that include exactly? Plug and Play or Plug and Pray? LOL

The only thing I hate about this is the fact I will be saving up over the fall and winter, but it also gives me plenty of time to research, talk with those that are doing the swap and go from there... Also I gotta address my suspension/wheels situation and exterior "looks" dept first.

 

The brackets do need to be a certain distance from the block in order to work. You would also need a certain crank pulley for the spacing to be correct.

I am strongly considering making a power steering and alternator mount kit. I won't touch the A/C mount though. Granted there is still plenty of room on the kit I made for my car to mount the compressor in the same location as the stock Z. The issue is the belt layout actually.

 

Cass,

Just shipped your oil pressure sensor adapter out!

 

TY sir!! Almost have my sold restaurant buttoned up and can start concentrating on the car again shortly.

I need to make a friend that can help us with the math on the belt routing. I am hoping to meet with my machinist friend late next week if his schedule permits.