My understanding is that the AC on/off and tach will still not function correctly. These two things are controlled by the Nissan can-bus unit (white unit behind the AC contols) and only interput the Nissan signal correctly. The AC is an easy fix, just run a separate switch and Havok/Quamen showed how to deal with the tach.

 

That makes sense so with that being said I see no benefit to using a stand alone system. I want to do some analysis on the tach signal. Maybe get out my O-Scope and do some probing on the cluster mother board. The nissan tach signal is derived from several signals. There has to be a point on the motherboard just before the tach that combines the signals. The multiple inputs shouldn't go into the tach without some sort of IC to calculate the signal. When I get closer to starting my swap I may do some analysis on the motherboard signals, and write up a nice technical document.

Same goes for the AC signal. I want everything working like stock, and I will not stop until it does. You can't tell an engineer he can't do something technical as long as it doesn't defy the laws of physics....lol.

 

Im jus posting this due to my recent experience with LS swapped vehicles...

Yesterday I went to the Formula D drift event in Wall NJ. I arrived in time to catch the second half of the show. When I got there I was immediately aroused by the heavy V8 rumble but wen I looked down at the track I saw a red and white S13 and a Mobil 1 Camaro. At first I thought it was the Camaro reving, but then smoke was comin from the wheels of the S13 and I realized that it was infact the Nissan that had underwent an LS swap. Im an old school cat bordering 40 years old, I kno that big V8s are powerful. And still I built my Z like most others, Boosted. Never even thought about this swap, even back wen that kid Noah did it I was still like man thats wack. Then I saw and heard this car run,,,, Maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaan That shyt was wicked... Id say that 95% of the cars that ran were V8's and outta all the foreign cars that ran maybe 2 were still factory motors running boost, which were weaksauce wen compared to the big V8's they ran against.

I am now seriously considering parting out my motor tranny Haltech and turbo kit in order to finance this project....

I am writing this jus so that anyone reading this thread who is considering going FI or swapping think long and hard. IN MY OPINION the logical choice should be the swap, due to cost to power ratio, for one. I kno personally I spent between 8-10k on my project to get to where Im at, and while Im happy with this I do want more. Now a built motor is gonna cost upwards of another 4k. Thats much deeper into this car only to hopefully achieve 600+ whp. So figure about 14k in and prolly maxxed out.

Now the cost of a V8 swap, while Ive not read this entire thread could be under or close to that the possibilities with that platform are endless and the initial power u get is insane...

I commend those who have and are currently working on this, but to those on the fence go to shows and check out any swaps that are there. Read this thread and ask questions to the brothers that have done this or who are in the process....

BTW any one who is interested in going FI and is looking for 1 stop shopping. Ill selll you everthing you need to achieve 400+ whp. No tune needed. You get it all. Pm for details.......

Guys good luck and Im sub'd

 

I would also like the stock a/c button to work since I am ocd like that.

 

id seriously consider keeping the stock z ac unit and single wire. make a bracket and custom lines. should still work. nissan ecu controlling nissan stuff, ls ecu controls ls parts

 

I guess a standalone could make everything work. Especially for a race/track car.

but I'm more concerned with how to get it to pass the OBDII inspection or emissions. If you have a Chevy ECU and plug in the OBDII at the emission's place, won't the operator go "WTF"? In Wa state, one has to think of these things. If I do this to my 03 G sedan, then I think I have to use a motor that's newer than 03.

 

This is the least of my worries......

Reading more n more!

 

how much are you guys initially investing in this? i know thats a weird question and dont have to be exact. After riding in the blue beast at CIN(Ls2 built Rear TT) i had a Viagra Boner. U know the ones that stay up for 4-6 hours. I called my doc and he didnt know how to get rid of it

 

It's a big worry for me. ie.. doing the work and not being able to license it.

 

No disrespect intended... I can dig it..

Wat I meant was that so far Ive begun looking into this n the cost is up there... Same as going FI, Im more concerned about finding a motor ecu n harness right now than even worrying about emissions...
This is sooooooo tempting...Big plans this winter!

 

Look into this:

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...ons-cheat.html

As far as cost, mine will be roughly ~$12K with me doing the VQ pull and LS install myself. This is for an LS2/T56, Sikky swap kit and other pieces they require, Vats disabled, and roughly $1500 for tune and wiring.

 

thats not bad. Dam wish i would've paid more attention when my dad was trying to teach me to turn wrenches.

 

getting my sikky harness this week. ill report how everything goes asap fellas

 

This sounds like a great option!

SIKKY, do you think you all can fab a bracket to sell with your kits so we can use the stock Z a/c? I am not sure where I would have a bracket made.

 

^pretty sure if you get measurments or modify your stock bracket you can make it work

 

Someone(Sikky) should make a bracket that mounts the 350z A/C compessor on the LS2 motor, and relocate the alternator to the passenger side like the 350z.

 

Sold my TT kit today... ordered all my SIKKY components today as well. They had a tracking number to me in less than an hour. The customer service is everything I have heard it was.

I may ask a friend of mine from a local machine shop to stop by and see if he can measure out the brackets to fab up. If he can do it I will see about pricing to have 5-10 sets made.

 

^ Definately like the sound of that. I'd like to be first in line to buy a set if your buddy can make it happen.

 

just got the passenger header on, as well as a few other misc parts.

heads up to everybody, the header install went alot smoother with the starter and valvecover off, also i removed some bolts off the k member and lowered it down, after that, install was cake. also, i have an aftermaket lt1 y pipe (for my single turbo) and they line right up, no modifications necessary, and fits my gtspec underbody brace with some spacers. huge +1 in my book.

 

Nice vid