Acree

iTrader: (29)

Well they will be brighter if you do change them out. Also, the resistor values that I used should work just fine for you considering most white and blue leds run close to the same voltage.

Also please excuse my ignorance. No offense intended.


Tim, just hit me up anytime. I could probably have these parts finished and shipped back to you in a matter of days. I could even come home for a weekend and do it all in a day or two. Just let me know, when you want it done and I'll do it for ya.


Day pics coming soon!

momo 350z

iTrader: (11)

Simply amazing...how much would something like this run?Also how hard is it to change out the gauge cluster?,i really like that white on sliver looks hot..

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

None taken :-D

Sorry to pester you, but which resistor value (500-550ohm?) and size (1206?)are you using? I am not sure if the LEDs were mounted in parallel per resistor, or that each took a single resistor. I hope to get all of this stuff ready by next week.

Thanks again!

michaeljr6

iTrader: (14)

jebus acree.....this has to be one of your finest works....last time i checked it was all red and now..jebus it's SWEET!

you should go to the Tyler meet!!!

Nomad81

yea how much is the total cost?

and what type u used?

simply amazing

maybe u should write a guide to help us noobs hehe

visionboy

iTrader: (7)

that is really nice. You go to a&m? Will you consider doing this for a fee? Would just need the dash and guages. I'm not too far away from college station. LMK!

Thanks

MrGraphics

AWESOME!!!

1 Suggestion: try using some Rosco theatre lighting gels to convert the stereo LED. If you go to a theatre rental store in your area (look up theatre and lighting in your local yellow pages) they'll give you one of these sample books for free. Just say you want to buy some gels but are uncertain which ones you want.



Hold the assorted gels over the screen and you'll see which ones shift the light to blue. You can then cut up your samplebook and be done.


I almost did the same thing, but instead I decided it was easier to change all the LEDs in my aftermarket head unit to Amber and Red.

mchong75

iTrader: (6)

ACREE, where in Dallas are you?
Care to work on mine? (Pay for Labor & Parts)

Acree

iTrader: (29)

If you are asking how much I would charge for it, please send a pm.
Difficulty of the gauge cluster is all dependent on the skill level and experience of the person involved. If you are talking about simply changing the gauge faces, then the time should be under an hour.


In every circuit I can recall on every board, the leds were mounted in series with the resistor. As far as the resistor value, I am not quite sure at this time because I am still waiting for pictures that I left in Dallas. They should be email shortly, then I will have pics and a full resistor list with sizes. Sorry for the delay.


I would but I have an autocross event this weekend here. If you want to talk to people who've seen it in person, just ask Randall, Mike, or any of the guys who were at TGIF.


I will have a full parts list, pictures, and final cost shortly! I just need to get the above mentioned pictures in. Thanks!


I am always up for taking on new projects. PM to dicuss pricing and everything. Thanks.


Hey Mr. Graphics. I remember you posting the same stuff when I made the thread about the red interior conversion. Sorry to say, I could never find one of these shops.


My parents live in Bedford, Mid Cities area near right next to Grapevine.
As I said, I'm always interested in doing led projects for others. Shoot me a PM. Thanks

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I hate to "freeload" from your hard work. Since the Z is my only car, I prefer to get all of my stuff and get everything switched out in one try.

I switched out the LEDs in my OEM headunit with thoughts of squeezing in a small computer inside of it (not worth the labor and investment at the moment... slot DVD drive for $95!). Everything lights up bright white @ 12V with the sides of the CD slot lighting up blue. LCD-wise, I've seen a backlight similar to it. It's a few strings of SMD LEDs (0603 or 0805). I'm not sure if it's worth changing them, but with some creativity you can sidemount a couple high-flux LEDs and get it to light up inside evenly. For me, I'll end up doing a total custom job by cutting circuit traces of the switches and rig them to a PC keyboard controller, and even dremel out the LCD for a Matrix Orbital (someday it'll be a reality). If not, I can always Ebay my white/blue lighting work of art :-)

Please let me (us) know ASAP the resistor values for the gauge clusters... Alex should be shipping the faces sometime next week.

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

Regarding the LCD, I just pulled it off. Onboard is 14 LEDs. Beneath the LCD is a yellow plastic diffuser. You can bend the LCD up high enough to remove the plastic surrounding and swap LEDs.

Acree

iTrader: (29)

Oh snap. I might have to pull mine back off then. What size led is it!?

Roger V

iTrader: (4)

I am in love with you work.

yobri

iTrader: (2)

Now that is crazy sick man!!! Simply awesome!

A Keno Star

Thats so Pimp

BlueDragonZ

iTrader: (11)

Man that is awesome, waiting for the parts list and write up.

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

Roughly the same size as the others on the unit (0805 is fine), but the resistors are smaller (0603) and have a different value.

3 strings are 4 LEDs in serial with a resistor
1 string is 2 LEDs in serial with a different resistor

I did not look closely at the values, but if absolutely necessary I can provide pictures before you attempt any surgical procedures. The pins on the LCD display are very sturdy (held to the glass with some sort of epoxy). I managed to safely remove it without ripping traces or ripping the pins. I recommend using masking tape to protect the LCD and your fingers.

I'm going to dremel this entire section (easy to do without affecting the other LEDs) and make an attempt to squeeze in a Matrix Orbital display.

My next step with my PC project (cheapest) is to gain access to every microswitch, hack a PC board controller and use wrapping wire connect some media keys and test them on my PC. It'll be easy, but I am trying to figure out how I am going to rig the Volume control **** and have it "press" the volume up and down keys on the keyboard controller. Tracing the keys are easy, but rigging the **** is another story... will investigate :-)

Also, some might be familiar with nLite software. I'm using it to strip XP down to an ISO hopefully get it to install on a 512MB-1GB Compact Flash card without all the bloat.

Phuong (Kicks himself in the butt for selling his S400 camera...)

Acree

iTrader: (29)

Awesome man. Thanks for the info! I might have to try this after I see what the film from Mr. Graphics does. Hopefully, I will be able to just overlay the LCD screen with one of these "overlays" he is sending me and it will just turn blue. If it doesn't work as well as I'm hoping, I will have to pull it off and change out the leds. Pics would be cool, IF it's not too much trouble. If you've already put it back on, then no worries. I'm sure I'll figure it out.

~Acree

DIGItonium

iTrader: (1)

Oh it's ok, but I'm not sure how soon I can get you some pictures. The LCD was permanently removed and that section of the PCB will be cut out so I can epoxy another LCD module. If it fits, I'll definitely send pictures here. I am sort of a perfectionist, so I would prefer changing out the LEDs so it will be more consistent with the others.

BTW, did you have any difficulty getting the needles aligned/calibrated correctly? It doesn't look like needle position would matter as long as it lands in the "home" position when off and it'll automatically correct itself. The needle motor is digitally controlled, so it will move 45 degrees from whatever its "home" position is. Am I correct?

Miraclekidjr

iTrader: (3)

I want it done NOW!