Blue Led Interior Conversion Finished
#61
Originally Posted by djtonium
Oh it's ok, but I'm not sure how soon I can get you some pictures. The LCD was permanently removed and that section of the PCB will be cut out so I can epoxy another LCD module. If it fits, I'll definitely send pictures here. I am sort of a perfectionist, so I would prefer changing out the LEDs so it will be more consistent with the others.
BTW, did you have any difficulty getting the needles aligned/calibrated correctly? It doesn't look like needle position would matter as long as it lands in the "home" position when off and it'll automatically correct itself. The needle motor is digitally controlled, so it will move 45 degrees from whatever its "home" position is. Am I correct?
BTW, did you have any difficulty getting the needles aligned/calibrated correctly? It doesn't look like needle position would matter as long as it lands in the "home" position when off and it'll automatically correct itself. The needle motor is digitally controlled, so it will move 45 degrees from whatever its "home" position is. Am I correct?
#62
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Originally Posted by MrGraphics
AWESOME!!!
1 Suggestion: try using some Rosco theatre lighting gels to convert the stereo LED. If you go to a theatre rental store in your area (look up theatre and lighting in your local yellow pages) they'll give you one of these sample books for free. Just say you want to buy some gels but are uncertain which ones you want.
Hold the assorted gels over the screen and you'll see which ones shift the light to blue. You can then cut up your samplebook and be done.
I almost did the same thing, but instead I decided it was easier to change all the LEDs in my aftermarket head unit to Amber and Red.
1 Suggestion: try using some Rosco theatre lighting gels to convert the stereo LED. If you go to a theatre rental store in your area (look up theatre and lighting in your local yellow pages) they'll give you one of these sample books for free. Just say you want to buy some gels but are uncertain which ones you want.
Hold the assorted gels over the screen and you'll see which ones shift the light to blue. You can then cut up your samplebook and be done.
I almost did the same thing, but instead I decided it was easier to change all the LEDs in my aftermarket head unit to Amber and Red.
#63
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Originally Posted by Acree
Not true. The motor only remembers position relative to it's last position. If 12 o'clock was 12 o'clock, and you move the needle to 9 o'clock, then the motor will still recognize 12 as 12. You need to take pictures of the needles PRIOR to dissassembly. Then try to reposition where they were.
#65
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I see how you are. You just Had to do it in Blue so I would Pay for next semesters beer money. Let me know nextime you're in town. Or better yet I might just have to come visit Aggie Land, and we could do my door handels too. Is next weekend good for you?
Shoot me a PM. you should know what I want to know
Shoot me a PM. you should know what I want to know
Last edited by chazzg; 01-28-2006 at 05:59 PM.
#68
PARTS LIST AND RESISTOR PICS!
From Mouser.com
Part #--------------------Descrip-------------------Quantity
660-RK73B3ALTE100J------2512 101ohm Res-----------1
263-470------------------1206 470ohm Res------------1
263-110-RC---------------1206 110ohm Res-----------4
263-150------------------1206 150ohm Res-----------4
263-220-RC---------------1206 220ohm Res-----------1
859-LTST-T670TBL--------Lite-On SMT Led Blue-------55
512-QTLP610CEBTR-------Fairchild Right Angle LED-----15
From LSDiodes
Descrip-------------Quantity
3mm Blue LED---------4
(These 4 3mm LEDs are for illuminating the controls on the side of the gauge pod that control dimming, and the computer.)
From Mouser.com
Part #--------------------Descrip-------------------Quantity
660-RK73B3ALTE100J------2512 101ohm Res-----------1
263-470------------------1206 470ohm Res------------1
263-110-RC---------------1206 110ohm Res-----------4
263-150------------------1206 150ohm Res-----------4
263-220-RC---------------1206 220ohm Res-----------1
859-LTST-T670TBL--------Lite-On SMT Led Blue-------55
512-QTLP610CEBTR-------Fairchild Right Angle LED-----15
From LSDiodes
Descrip-------------Quantity
3mm Blue LED---------4
(These 4 3mm LEDs are for illuminating the controls on the side of the gauge pod that control dimming, and the computer.)
Last edited by Acree; 01-31-2006 at 11:13 AM.
#74
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Thanks
What's up Andrew! Pics are awesome. Still waiting for my new gauge faces from Alex. Haven't heard from him in a while and I head out of town again on Friday. For 6 weeks! Awesome. Was hoping to get them this week while I was home and finish this project up! Oh well. I'll be in touch and will post pics of mine once I get the parts! Thanks for your help.
#75
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Ok. Thats f'ing bad***! But seriously you guys who actually know how to do this stuff need to get out and get yourselves a shop or something. Do you have any idea how much money you could make doing this for people? Just a suggestion. I could NEVER do this myself! So, some serious props to those who can.
#78
Originally Posted by rs350z
Red would be sweeet
https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/112613-finally-done-12-5-hours-later.html
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Originally Posted by djtonium
BTW, did you have any difficulty getting the needles aligned/calibrated correctly? It doesn't look like needle position would matter as long as it lands in the "home" position when off and it'll automatically correct itself. The needle motor is digitally controlled, so it will move 45 degrees from whatever its "home" position is. Am I correct?
Regarding the the calibration of the needle, the needle position does matter.
You have to remember the position of all your needles before you take them out (taking a picture is best). Then you need to turn your car on, and place the needles were they are supposed to be.
If you try to place them while it's off and rest them on the needle stopper, they will not be in the correct position.
To align the RPM gauge, just remember where your needle is when it idles. To double check, set your rev light at 2000rpm and check that it lights up solid when it hits 2000rpm, no sooner no later. Then if you want, try to hit the rev limit (6600rpm) and it should bounce there
To align the speedometer, you want to set your data meter to read the speed, and you will have to either lift the car and put them on jackstands so the rear wheels move or drive around at 20mph and place the needle at the 20mph mark (you better make sure it's a long road and there is no traffic though ) Then double check that at 40mph it reads 40, at 60 it reads 60 (for accuracy).
All the other needles you can pretty much place them with the car on at idle (fuel/temp/pressure/volt).