Seen the JP one in person, GM has a higher profile and a different shape to it.

 

car and wing and titanium hardware have all been dropped back off at the body shop..
the alternator and voltage issue cured 99% of my dirveability issues.. very fkn weird.

and the parasitic draw comes from the constant power on the Accuair ECU.. almost .7 draw.. added an 80 amp continous realy in line for the stereo wiring and accuair power supply.. accuair said the ecu is ok to be moved to keyed ingition too.. which is double weird..
Also swapped out the optima for a big @ss lead acid battery.. an inch larger than our usual group 35 battery.. its a snug ft but im happy w it.

90% of the interior was reinstalled Saturday...

wing being installed this week too. Pics to come soon.
Car is almost complete.

 

wondering specs on the battery , the specs on alternator?

 

sure.. the car normally takes a group 35 battery.. but i went with what i believe is a group 34.. its about an inch wider than a group 35.. so its snug as hell in there.

Also i went with a 250 amp DC power Inc alternator.. the larger ones are overkill and would draw/rob even more kinetic energy from the engine.

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/high-outp...3.5L+V6+VQ35DE

 

how do the specs of your battery choice stack up with this

◦12v Dry Cell Valve Regulated Lead Acid Battery (AGM)
◦SPP Series Batteries are good for over 400 full discharge cycles.
◦Internal resistance: <4.0 mOhms = Ability to quickly deliver power. The lower the number the faster the delivery.
◦20 hour rate: 2.20A/44Ah
◦5 hour rate: 7.48A/37.4Ah
◦1/2 hour rate:55A/27.5Ah
◦5 Second Cranking Amps: 1200A
◦CCA: 560A
◦Peak Discharge: >2600 A
◦Weight: 44.86 lbs.
◦Dimensions: (6.75”H x 7.75”W x6.5”D)

 

That's an easy one. Mine is no longer a glass mat battery ( agm)... it has around half the ccas...but those agm batteries are meant for hot starts and that's it.. they will die over and over and over with anything more than a very small parasitic draw.. and less than daily use...and they are sadly a terrible idea for a non daily driven car.. at least optimas are now...since they became.a.Johnson controlls product theybreally blow now

Yours posted seems like a great battery.... but not for my situation.

Plus im in Arizona and all batteries die quickly here w the heat. AGM is better...it's just different...makes sense to learn about the differences to make the best choice on what to choose for ones specific situation

 

Did you ever put these on?

 

^^ actually I haven't yet.

I feel I may need a different tire size in the rear to keep the wheel for looking sunk. .. may need to go narrower. .so I'd like to handle that first. .. I haven't been at my desk at work in a fee weeks w some.job changes.... so my updates and my general.free time.has been zero lol.

I've actually started a business now as well... and it's been exhausting getting it going..

Any body kit or wheel.you've ever dreamed of buying from Japan is now under my span of " inventory"...and I'm also the senior advisor for US purchases for Stardast Company now.... the car drives good now. ..and it's been dropped off for nutsert work as well as wing installation... so by next weekend.. it will finally take shape.

I have some.process pics to upload here soon.. I'll try to nail that down today

 

So, if I need an MCR?

 

step 1: become vendor
step 2: sponsor own car
step 3: ???
step 4: profit


(ideally become LLC and write off car mods as a loss...just stick a vinyl sticker on your car as advertisement budget)

 

^ yup.

anything.

I partnered w Mastermind North America as well.as directly w.several manufacturers. . Varis.. Bensopera..Liberty Walk.. Hammann..Weber...Top Secret..Rocket Bunny.. MCR..Garage Mak.. Mercury Racing..

Also do Japanese wheels w deep margins..means room to play will pricing.. Advan..Volk..Mackin/Rays..

Wheel building refinishing and parts. .etc etc.

 

since thers very little in the way of Garage mak built progress shots so far.. here...

have 6 million of mine lol.








drilling holes for uprights..





feet had a bit of a gap exhibted.. some light scuffing and knock down fixed it though..

 

They did a good job. I would've been scared to attempt that on carbon fiber trunk.

 

What is the deal with the other Z that always seems to be lurking in these pictures? Seems like it is traveling down your same road just different.

 

i wouldnt say its going the same route, its just the body guys shop project car. Was a wrecked car etc.

 

holy cr@p.. these back tires dont fit at ALL lol

the sidewall bubble is just terrible.. so no go on the 325s on an 11 inch wheel.. i should have known better and i kind of did.. was just in denial as long as i could be though lol.
It looks like "the veilside that wasnt" lol.. eff that.




So im going to run 295 square and call it a day. Fronts look great..
rear also has a toe in problem and is going to need some serious adjsutments to fit and look good, but thats the same w any car and wheel fitment.

 

so in the pics its a 295 front. why not run a 305 in the rear

 

see all of the above comments ^ lol.
its a shape limitation.

These flares arent built for meaty tire fit... and things look sunk w a big sidewall.. has to do with scrub clearance and other things. They were out of stock on 305 at the time i ordered, so this was just what i did in a pinch

 

Hot damn, stardast fender flares on top of the superleggera wide fenders.

 

...so you're going to a smaller tire on a flare that's already swallowing up a bigger tire?

Do you have a pic like 15-20 feet away of the rear "aired out"?

Love the updates