350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

I assume you are addressing that statement to the starter of this thread..not me (my motor is fully built and more)- see sig

Gman094

Just registered here, so excuse me if my question is noobish. From what I understand, the stock block starts to reach its limits around 500whp. What paths are people taking to build it up for more power, specificaly boost and how much money are they spending to do these mods. I'm getting rid of my WRX soon, and I'm looking into picking up a turboed Z.

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

scroll back into other threads on the "forced induction" section...i have written several along with various other members here

my parts and project list is in my sig..spent around 23K so far...do some research, spend an hour or two looking at old threads, ALL of your questions will be answered.

TODD

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (4)

Well if a master mechanic said it....BOW DOWN!

Do yourself a favor a READ the thread before posting.

cjb80

iTrader: (3)

OK, I feel like I won't get a response that will satisfy me, but I figured I definetly won't get the answers if I don't ask - so here goes.

I am an APS kit owner, however I have yet to install it.

1) The Unichip does take a vacuum line to a portion of the unit, is this for the purposes of boost control, or reading the MAP, or both?

2) To the thread starter: Was all of your tuning done with the Unichip, or another piggyback/computer?

3) The Unichip doesn't take a knock sensor input from what I recall (about 2 years since I tuned with one.) If this is true, then how can you determine if you are running too much timing, besides sound and power loss? (or engine blowing up)

4) Has the software improved at all? When I used it, it was DOS based, and really, really sucked.... Lastly, I heard the software costs around $900 or some rediculous crap like that?

Thanks

Chris

zero2prove

1) Both
2) Unichip - no other modifications other than off the shelf APS TT kit
3) Stock knock sensors are still in place, the unichip only advances or retards off of stock timing.
4) Software is typically the same in the last 3 years. Just some minor revisions to support new cars. You'll have to contact Unichip USA for new dealer/tuner pricing on the tuning tools. I don't remember what we paid several years back.
5) This was just an exercise if I can indeed double the amount of HP of Z with the APS TT kit. I completely understand that the engine is at its limits with this kind of power and would not recommend anyone running their stock Z motor at this power level. Its a matter of time and abuse that something will eventually fail. I would never tune a customer car with stock bottom end at this boost.

Regards,

Tuan

cjb80

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the answers to the question. I have a motor at the machinist right now which I intend to build within the next couple weeks. I would like to reach around 600-650 rear wheel with it, at say 16-18 psi of boost. (8.5:1 compression) So I am curious if the Unichip would be suitable for the time being (until the EMS comes out)

What are you doing to monitor the knock levels? Do you know what the stock timing is at full load (N/A) ?

Thanks

Chris

mr2fasterthanyo

how many Z owners use the J and S?

we have had good luck using it in the MR2 world.. i never had any real problems with it

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Gurgen, and Kshep and a few others have tried the J&S. The reviews have been mixed, becuase there seems to be some serious installation issues with the J&S on our cars. Lots of cases of blown coils. But there are a couple members that have made some mods to the J&S and have gotten it to work.

mr2fasterthanyo

yea, we had to modify the J&S as well. especially when running such things as an autronic, and full MSD ignition. we had to send it back to the guy to put a new resistor in it. He is really nice (his name is John) and pretty much works out of his basement i think. But his products are pretty good.

RedLeader

iTrader: (9)

I emailed J&S when I bought mine(used), gave them the serial number and they told me there had been an upgrade since mine was produced, & gave me detailed instructions on how to upgrade with parts from Radio Shack. People had posted previously to not leave your key in the "on" position if the car isn't running because of potential damage to the coils.

Bruce

zimbo

iTrader: (4)

Crap! I sent the same type of email and was told that the unit is sealed and cannot be upgraded! Man, what gives?

--Steve

RedLeader

iTrader: (9)

Zimbo-
To clarify, you add inline pieces. You don't open the box.
I think they were resistors. I'm electrically-challenged:-(

mr2fasterthanyo

yes....... resistors is what we had to add as well. he was doing it back when i did it for $30.... worth the money to me, i didn't want to screw it up.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Sounds like the same mod we do with the Greddy ignition timing harness. $5 in resistors and you're clear.

i still never leave my key in the one position..unless its running.

mr2fasterthanyo

yea, probably is the same thing. i had to do mine for the MSD ignition