i have an autometer air fuel gauge and thought it would be a snap to put in. well looking at my nissan shop manuals i saw the car has 4 oxygen sensors!! 2 they call a/f sensors and 2 they call oxygen sensors. they appear to all be the same 4 wire o2 type sensor though. all of which has 2 white and one black and one gray wire, i had been told the black was the signal to the ecu and tried it with weird results then was told the gray which now the gauge is not moving off full rich reading since hooked up to that wire. which dam one is it?!?!?! and which sensor to come off of? before the cats or after? any help would be greatly appreciated and will help in the aid of me not grenading my new ati install, thanks.

 

I dont believe the autometer will read narrow band o2 sensors . Thats what are cars have . You need to put in a wideban o2 sensor on one side or the other . Before the cat .
If Im wrong ...some one correct me please

 

I don't know where but you do want a Wideband with an F/I

 

i did get a pm from someone and will copy it here in case it helps others


"there is a connector right below the intake tube u can tape into to get the voltage u need for the gauge. Take out the intake tube and the 4 pins connector should be next to the engine taped up to other connectors. for me its the black wire, u can check it with voltmeter and see if u get less than 1volt when engine is idle."


i did originally hook the gauge up to the black wire, but was getting very erratic readings. i'm sure the car is off right now as i put in some pe 380 injectors also, but had no time to adjust anything (fmu) and plan to put on chassis dyno and possibly get a plug in stand alone ecu, but am just trying to get it close now and make sure it is not lean. hooking it up to that black wire (and it is exactly the same one you are talking about under the intake tube) it would sweep back and forth very quickly from full lean reading to full rich reading. but if i did get into the throttle a little bit it would stabilize to a slightly rich reading. but at idle or cruise it would bounce back and forth constantly.
does your gauge do that or is the reading fairily steady? maybe my ecu is working over time to adjust fuel curve right now.

 

You are going to need a wide band O2 like the Zeitronix and it needs to be installed before your cats. I had to change my cats to Crawfords because the stock cats did not leave much room for anything. Good luck!

 

Take a look at the Dynojet Wideband commander. it does some datalogging functions as well as programmable outputs for whatever you might need in the event "too lean"

 

your narrow band a/g guage is working properly. it bounces around at idle or light throttle conditions. it is basically just to tell the a/f at 3/4 to full throttle conditions. ive been using the old style a/f meters for years with great success as it always told me where i was at peak torque & WOT wich was most important.....the narrow band setups are ok for those doing medium NA builds but as already mentioned the wideband a/f guage/02 is the way to go with FI!

-justin

 

thanks for the info. will hook it back to the other wire then. just need to get a baseline for the moment till i have time to tune further.

 

Id love to see some pics.
ALso do most of you guys preffer the 3 or 2 gauge pod arm?

 

i got the 3 pod autometer. fits awesome and looks like the car came that way. i have boost, fuel pressure, and a/f gauges in it.

 

Of course this all depends if you have an 03 or 04. 03's and coverts in 04 (most of them anyway) use a typical 0-990mv scale for lean to rich. 04's and later use a w/b sensor which scales 1.5v--0 from lean to rich. might want to make sure what you are reading first, best verified using a DSO or like meter.
hope this helps
'bone

 

You need the PLXDevices.com wideband to narrowband converter wired into the PLX M-300 Wideband.

 

ok let me get this straight, the 2003 has its own "typical scale" narrowband voltage readings where 2004+ uses a wideband sensor? so can the 2004+ z's just purchase w/b guages & hook right to the stock sensor?
teh215, why would a w/b to n/b converter be needed when using a wideband sensor/reader?
overzealous1, the way you described your experience with the narrowband guage, it appears its working perfectly(normal for the narrowband) wich tells me you do not need these other accessories to work properly. im assuming if you had a "non-typical" type voltage reading on your z you wouldnt get the results you have described. im no EE so i dont want to lead anyone in the wrong direction but i have my narrowband a/f guage hooked up to the same black wire you described above under the intake tube. because i had a few experiences with narrowband a/f guages on previous cars i knew my guage was reading properly. also since i had no experience with w/b guages i felt totally comfortable reading the n/b guage with my setup. i talk of it in past tense because i disconnected my guage a while back as iwas planning to sell my entire nos setup including my guage & custom switch plate that housed the guage.......might hook it back up........

-justin