Sentry65,

I am curious as to why you didn't choose dynocomp in the first place. At the current hourly rate vivid was charging, you might as well have gone with dynocomp from the beggining as they have a good reputation....at least from what I have read on this forum. Good luck! I hope you get things sorted out. I hate feeling like you must feel right now. I've been there!

 

Autosport wont do this, as he is swamped just making the harnesses for all the different cars. I offer this service for $250 if anyone is interested.

 

I was debating that the night before I was going to go to vivid, but vivid is 20 minutes away. Dynocomp is like 45 minutes away. I didn't think this job would be all that big of a deal and figured I'd get to know some of the guys at vivid cause they're pretty active in the community going to track days and sponsering things, BBQ's at their place, etc. Obviously I'm burning some bridges with them now, but that's life - and their fault really.

I was at dynocomp before to pick up an APS oil pan I ordered and talked a little about my plans for my car with them and they kinda had the "if it's not turbo, don't talk to me" attitude which i dunno I wasn't comfortable with because my car is NA right now and I've been considering a SC since I mainly do road courses. I dunno. I don't really wanna do turbo unless I'm doing an engine build etc and I'm not wanting to spend that kind of money at this point. I don't want to dump huge money on a turbo setup just to feel like it's too much power out on road courses or autox and always wonder if I should have gone SC since so many people that use them for those types of driving get great results

Plus the turbo world is totally in flux right now with the APS tuner kit, then the APS kit with a standalone, the JWT kit, the UTEC EMS etc all on the horizon. There's a lot of cool things coming out. They're all going to cost some pretty big money and might have some glitches at first and I've been waiting too long to get my A/F balanced - which is what I bought the EU for really cause I'm tired of the ECU changing on me and My TS ECU flash is a pain to mail to them all the time trying to get good A/F

 

Amy had posted to Sharif: a few day's ago...
----------------------------
Sharif, How about a special option
From Your Company, ForgedInternals
To do this --- Ta Da !!

eManage Ultima - Pre Wired to the "( AutoSport ) Ready to Connect quick wiring Loom"

I bet it would sell !! - Better than the poor Fellow that had to pay 15 hour's of labor @ tuner prices.. Let me Know what you think, and don't under-rate your time and expertise !

--------------------------------------
Sharif Posted:
Hey Guy's this is a great opportunity.. Buy a EU, an AutoSport harness and have Forged Internal's wire it up for only $250 more. What more could you ask for? Get the assembled unit, plug it in, and have a good time !

Humm "What more could we ask for?" Sort of a leading question - Yes/No ?

Cheers Amy -

 

sentry65, ... Sorry to hear you had to deal with vivid **** racing.
[rant mode] They are the WORST 'biggest' shop I know of. Like someone already mentioned, they have been Screwing people for the few years they have been in operation, ... take a search through some of the Subaru boards to see. I know you probably will spread the word that they are crap, ... I used to always mention it every chance I got (along with a bunch of my friends, they actually contacted me to Bribe me not to say anything further! HA!). What Amazes me is that they stay in business, and that they've grown! UHGG.
it seems you don't blame the Emanage, so that is good. I can wire up an EM blue in a couple hours (while BSing with friends too, but I am an Electronics Tech by trade) So I am Sure it was the fault of the store, ... and that's all they are is a store, ... they sure as hell are not tuners!! [/rant mode]

oh yeah, while I'm at it, stay away from Flash Options too!!! (sell clips, motors, etc) I had the pleasure of being bent over by them as well.

sorry for posting irrelevent info for this thread's topic.
Sean

 

Just to finish off this topic. Sentry is sending me his EU, and I will verify the fireware, and install this specific EU on my personal car. Once i verify that the EU is in normal working order, we can proceed from there. In the unlikely event, that the unit is defective, I will replace it right away. But based on conversations with Sentry, all signs are pointing to installation error.

 

Sharif, that's why I'm only trusting you to do the install on mine.

 

whenever you do a big install, look up the shop on the better business bureau

 

388 torque, yeah i stfu alot, i used to always give my opinion, on 350zmotoring, it was always the truth, most people are hard headed...didnt wanna listen, an just talked to much garbage. So i just sit back an relax...an be nice about adding my 2 cents in

 

Shariff (or others),

I have heard some rumblings that so far everybody using a piggybacks (either e-manage, r4, etc.) has hot-start problems on occasion (ie. lots of cranking required, then rough running at first when it finally starts). Can you confirm/deny this and if it's true, can you comment on if it got any better/worse with the EU vs. the blue unit? Outside of this, can you enumerate _any_ lurking drivability issues that have not been able to be tuned away with the EU?

I'm obviously not expecting you to trash the e-manage, I'm just wondering if in fact it seems to be able to tune all aspects of drivability or if there a few things lacking that we hope will be addressed with future firmware.

Thanks,
Jeff

 

I'm still running the UniChip, and I haven't had any hot cranking issues... (Reading this back it sounds very perverse.)

The only times I've had problems starting are right after shut down, and I think that is related to excessive fuel. The current fuel hasn't evaped, before I put a fresh prime in there @ key on.

 

To follow-on w/ what spdkills says,

I believe that I may have flooded the car once or twice...attributed this in part to running bigger injectors (I mean it can't be the driver right?). Waited 5 minutes and started immediately.

The only other time I had a prolonged crank on start-up was when I was trying to figure out the install of Phunk's Crank Sensor wiring upgrade...two wires were crossed and after the dealership spent like half a day on it, I went to a local tuner shop, to which the dealer referred me to, and they figured out the crossed wires in 60-90 mins.

Otherwise, she starts quickly....may be a placebo affect on my part, but running even smoother since I had phunk's upgraded crank sensor wire successfully installed.

Now....blowing ignition coils during the summer....that I would definitely attribute to running the Emanage, and although there's some murmurring that the EU is better, I remain somewhat skeptical.

 

anybody have any issues with the rpms falling and the car dying?

honestly, my car idles perfect with the ultimate..way better than with ol blue..but periodically, ill be at a stop light and the rpms will be totally steady, then without notice slowly dip, then the engine dies...

what mode/function do i need to adjust to fix this?

please, anyone?!

 

Do you have any datalogs to see what the various sensors/ign/inj's are trending when this happens (just to help give an idea of what's going on)? There is an anti-stall map in the EU software for turbo blowback at idle (-if that's your problem, it may not be).

 

Mine has been running flawlessly. I have not noticed ANY changes. I have the same stumble at idle that I have had since the car was brand new, never had a problem starting, no coils burnt, yet. Overall, I am very impressed with the EU.

 

What dandy said...

From boost to 0 throttle can throw things off... However if you're just parked and dying that is odd...

If your A/F goes really rich right before death I would set the MAF clamp... If not... Then it may be a spark issue... I would expect to see A/F drop if it is related to blow by/back/thru or whatever they want to call it.

(In the 240's case the MAF is in front of the turbo, so it sucks in more air, but the TB is closed so it pressurizes the system, but it never makes it into the engine... So it goes RICH and dies...)

If that is the problem, just log a few moments of "clean" idle, and clamp the voltage there... In my brothers case we clamped it for 4 seconds after hitting 0 throttle... If you set a voltage and 0 for time... its permanent...

spdkils

 

My hard starting ....as with alot of the Guys...is with the bigger injector and return fuel system . When the car is warm and you shut it off and return to restart before it cools down . It will not start with out giving it some gas . And it also wants to die after it does start .So I have to keep it rev-ed up a little for a few seconds , then its fine and idles great . Would be nice to find the solution to it

 

I just bought the EU and I've heard murmering about copatability issue. If there are and can you clarify? Badmonkey I saw you have both how are they working for you?

 

couldn't find the info I was looking for. How long can we expect it will take to install this? Just currious on the dificulty of install.

 

I wired my own in about 2.5 hours. (And I'm a novice)

Forged Internals will sell you a pre-wired sport harnes, then its just plug and play.

Install is easy (just be methodical), tune requires more finess.