eManage Ulimate--Almost here..and MUCH IMPROVED!
#521
Originally Posted by folex187
Hello, I joined this forum specificaly for the UE. This forum has the most help for the UE of any place I found on the net thus far... Ok, now a question: You have inj and ign maps 1 and 2. What happens if there are conflicting values between these maps and they are both turned on? The reason I ask is that when my car was tuned, both maps were filled in with different values and they were both set to "on" via the jumpers on the front. When I turn one of them off my car leans out like crazy. Any thoughts?
#522
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Originally Posted by Badmonkey
Yes, connect the red lead from the multimeter to the yellow output from the LC-1 and the black lead to a chassis ground. This will tell you if it is your output from the LC-1 or the Emanage Ultimate that is giving you problems.
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Re-check the settings in the LM-1 programmer. It might be a glitch. Check the output wire connection from the LC-1, it might have come disconnected. If everything checks out fine, try the Innovate Forums, very informative.
#525
Originally Posted by folex187
Anyone having an issue with extremely rich cold starts and then back to optimal a/f once the car is warmed up? This is with larger injectors used.
What size injectors? I havent seen this before, unless the injector scaling is off. My my experience, depending on the size of the injectors, you might wanna try the airflow adjustment map for some of your injector scaling, as it tends to idle a little bit better than direct IPW reduction.
#526
the burninator
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ok I'm going to chime in and tell people my results.
I had all those issues with Vivid Racing and the emanage ultimate and Sharif helped me out by fixing their mistakes/wiring and went ahead and paid him to wire it up to the autosport harness.
It's finally in my car and tuned. I'm NA. Nothing crazy, just all standard breathing mods along with cams.
I'm not sure what power I actually gained, but I can for sure feel it. I'm not fully sure what the power is because I had Dynocomp install it and they have a load based dyno there and I never had a base dyno done there.
Rich tuned it and said he really liked the software. He said that this unit was way better than the regular blue emanage, but wasn't so sure about it being almost like a standalone. He said it didn't appear to have "target timing" and "target A/F"
He showed me how he'd actually try pulling timing and the ECU would actually add it back in and get away with it. So I don't know, but he did a base dyno with the base map that was in it first - Sharif, he said there was actually a map there and it seemed to be a FI map? Anyway, on that particular dyno Z's are 220whp stock usually. My initial dyno with that FI map was doing around 250whp, but the hp curve got stupid above 5k cause the hp would actually start dipping down a lot - not a normal curve. Obviously that map was pulling timing up top
The final results on that dyno were 272whp which dynocomp said was the highest NA Z they've ever seen on their dyno by quite a bit and were pretty impressed with the power it was making. They said on a dynojet it'd probably be closer to well they said 300, but I doubt that. I don't really have a crazy exotic setup. The JWT cams aren't really all that aggressive and I'm not running test pipes or a true dual exhaust.
He tuned it up to 6800 rpm
Other factors that are having an effect on my butt dyno are the new JIC Y pipe I had them replace my nismo pipe with and the lighter weight stoptech aerorotors for my brembos, and RAYS lugnuts
So I can't say for certain how much power I gained, but the A/F curve is pretty solid. At 3k it's about 12.7. At 5500 it's 12 and stays there to 6800. Before 3k it goes up to whatever, but it's a healthy curve. We're stuck with 91 octane here. Engine feels MUCH smoother and healthy and runs MUCH cooler. It's amazing how much cooler the engine is running! I had the APS oil pan put on too so that is probably helping the cooling effect out a little too.
Anyway Sharif said he loaded the firmware that let you advance the timing, but I was a little concerned when Rich was saying it didn't seem to let you "set" the timing or A/F - I know it's been said that a new firmware is coming out that will so maybe that's all that's needed. Either way the car seems to be running great.
The innovative A/F gauge is practically having seizures. I guess I need to hook it up to a laptop and load the software to tell it what to do cause right now it's just a big random colorful light blinker with random flashing numbers so fast you can hardly read them.
This tuning session was really just to get dynocomp familar with the emanage ultimate and my car and get a decent tune etc. I still have a few things to do, then I'll have them tune it again. I'll also get a 2nd map setup on 101 octane and see if we can get more power out of it
Thanks again Sharif for the support and being the emanage ultimate guru!
I had all those issues with Vivid Racing and the emanage ultimate and Sharif helped me out by fixing their mistakes/wiring and went ahead and paid him to wire it up to the autosport harness.
It's finally in my car and tuned. I'm NA. Nothing crazy, just all standard breathing mods along with cams.
I'm not sure what power I actually gained, but I can for sure feel it. I'm not fully sure what the power is because I had Dynocomp install it and they have a load based dyno there and I never had a base dyno done there.
Rich tuned it and said he really liked the software. He said that this unit was way better than the regular blue emanage, but wasn't so sure about it being almost like a standalone. He said it didn't appear to have "target timing" and "target A/F"
He showed me how he'd actually try pulling timing and the ECU would actually add it back in and get away with it. So I don't know, but he did a base dyno with the base map that was in it first - Sharif, he said there was actually a map there and it seemed to be a FI map? Anyway, on that particular dyno Z's are 220whp stock usually. My initial dyno with that FI map was doing around 250whp, but the hp curve got stupid above 5k cause the hp would actually start dipping down a lot - not a normal curve. Obviously that map was pulling timing up top
The final results on that dyno were 272whp which dynocomp said was the highest NA Z they've ever seen on their dyno by quite a bit and were pretty impressed with the power it was making. They said on a dynojet it'd probably be closer to well they said 300, but I doubt that. I don't really have a crazy exotic setup. The JWT cams aren't really all that aggressive and I'm not running test pipes or a true dual exhaust.
He tuned it up to 6800 rpm
Other factors that are having an effect on my butt dyno are the new JIC Y pipe I had them replace my nismo pipe with and the lighter weight stoptech aerorotors for my brembos, and RAYS lugnuts
So I can't say for certain how much power I gained, but the A/F curve is pretty solid. At 3k it's about 12.7. At 5500 it's 12 and stays there to 6800. Before 3k it goes up to whatever, but it's a healthy curve. We're stuck with 91 octane here. Engine feels MUCH smoother and healthy and runs MUCH cooler. It's amazing how much cooler the engine is running! I had the APS oil pan put on too so that is probably helping the cooling effect out a little too.
Anyway Sharif said he loaded the firmware that let you advance the timing, but I was a little concerned when Rich was saying it didn't seem to let you "set" the timing or A/F - I know it's been said that a new firmware is coming out that will so maybe that's all that's needed. Either way the car seems to be running great.
The innovative A/F gauge is practically having seizures. I guess I need to hook it up to a laptop and load the software to tell it what to do cause right now it's just a big random colorful light blinker with random flashing numbers so fast you can hardly read them.
This tuning session was really just to get dynocomp familar with the emanage ultimate and my car and get a decent tune etc. I still have a few things to do, then I'll have them tune it again. I'll also get a 2nd map setup on 101 octane and see if we can get more power out of it
Thanks again Sharif for the support and being the emanage ultimate guru!
Last edited by sentry65; 10-13-2005 at 10:16 AM.
#527
Glad you are pleased with the results.
Once your tuner gets a little more familiar with the software, I think he'll like tuning with it even more.
Couple of points.
1) The EU does have target AF tuning. The map is called A/F Target map, and its a 16X16 that lets you input the actual values for AF. Many tuners, myself included, prefer to load the values manually, rather than relying on a widband O2. I am always leary of having in 02 sensor go bad, and possibly damaging the engine.
2) The firware version 1.06 and beyond lets you add timing. You tuner is correct, in that the ECU still controls the timing, but the EU adds and subtracts from that. In about 2-3 weeks, Greddy is released a ROM chip upgrade, that will allow you to actually set the timing in the tables, rather than offsets. This will be a huge improvement for all of us.
Once your tuner gets a little more familiar with the software, I think he'll like tuning with it even more.
Couple of points.
1) The EU does have target AF tuning. The map is called A/F Target map, and its a 16X16 that lets you input the actual values for AF. Many tuners, myself included, prefer to load the values manually, rather than relying on a widband O2. I am always leary of having in 02 sensor go bad, and possibly damaging the engine.
2) The firware version 1.06 and beyond lets you add timing. You tuner is correct, in that the ECU still controls the timing, but the EU adds and subtracts from that. In about 2-3 weeks, Greddy is released a ROM chip upgrade, that will allow you to actually set the timing in the tables, rather than offsets. This will be a huge improvement for all of us.
#528
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The firware version 1.06 and beyond lets you add timing. You tuner is correct, in that the ECU still controls the timing, but the EU adds and subtracts from that. In about 2-3 weeks, Greddy is released a ROM chip upgrade, that will allow you to actually set the timing in the tables, rather than offsets. This will be a huge improvement for all of us.
Will this then make the EU like the UTEC as far as timing?
#529
the burninator
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cool, 2-3 weeks sound about right when I'll be wanting to go back in to have some more work done and tuned again
I'll talk to him about the A/F map you mentioned. He said he tried calling you yesterday just to go over anything he might not be aware of, but it was about 5:00pm here so it must've been late evening for you
I'll talk to him about the A/F map you mentioned. He said he tried calling you yesterday just to go over anything he might not be aware of, but it was about 5:00pm here so it must've been late evening for you
#530
Originally Posted by Gman2004
Sharif,
Will this then make the EU like the UTEC as far as timing?
Will this then make the EU like the UTEC as far as timing?
#531
the burninator
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yeah kinda sounds like I should have just waited for the UTEC...oh well I'll just keep using the Emanage Ultimate for my NA setup and decide what to do later on if I want to stay with it or go to something better. It seems to be pretty capable though. Wish it wouldn't be blowing people's coils cause you had your ignition set to "ON" though
Last edited by sentry65; 10-13-2005 at 10:41 AM.
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Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah kinda sounds like I should have just waited for the UTEC...oh well I'll just keep using the Emanage Ultimate for my NA setup and decide what to do later on if I want to stay with it or go to something better. It seems to be pretty capable though. Wish it wouldn't be blowing people's coils cause you had your ignition set to "ON" though
#533
the burninator
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yeah I mean me too - I have a hawker 680 battery so can't drain it too hard.
I'm more concerned about people who are not me who might leave it in the ON position - for what? 60 seconds and the coils will blow? It's just another thing to tell someone when they take my car to work on it or whatever
so the UTEC's advantages over the EU (when software/firmware for both is fully updated) so far that I can tell are that:
plug and play
doesn't burn out coils
can raise rev limiter
can adjust idle
knock feedback tuning
anything else?
I feel stupid for paying basically $1150 for the EU, but because Vivid Racing don't know how to wire, I almost had no choice cause I didn't want to deal with it again. That and kinda irritated that not all of the features fully work yet
$600 for EU and harness
$300 for autosport harness
$250 for sharif to prewire it up to the autosport
The UTEC is $1050 and is more capable
I'm more concerned about people who are not me who might leave it in the ON position - for what? 60 seconds and the coils will blow? It's just another thing to tell someone when they take my car to work on it or whatever
so the UTEC's advantages over the EU (when software/firmware for both is fully updated) so far that I can tell are that:
plug and play
doesn't burn out coils
can raise rev limiter
can adjust idle
knock feedback tuning
anything else?
I feel stupid for paying basically $1150 for the EU, but because Vivid Racing don't know how to wire, I almost had no choice cause I didn't want to deal with it again. That and kinda irritated that not all of the features fully work yet
$600 for EU and harness
$300 for autosport harness
$250 for sharif to prewire it up to the autosport
The UTEC is $1050 and is more capable
Last edited by sentry65; 10-13-2005 at 12:18 PM.
#534
Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah I mean me too - I have a hawker 680 battery so can't drain it too hard.
I'm more concerned about people who are not me who might leave it in the ON position - for what? 60 seconds and the coils will blow? It's just another thing to tell someone when they take my car to work on it or whatever
so the UTEC's advantages over the EU (when software/firmware for both is fully updated) so far that I can tell are that:
plug and play
doesn't burn out coils
can raise rev limiter
can adjust idle
knock feedback tuning
anything else?
I feel stupid for paying basically $1150 for the EU, but because Vivid Racing don't know how to wire, I almost had no choice cause I didn't want to deal with it again. That and kinda irritated that not all of the features fully work yet
$600 for EU and harness
$300 for autosport harness
$250 for sharif to prewire it up to the autosport
The UTEC is $1050 and is more capable
I'm more concerned about people who are not me who might leave it in the ON position - for what? 60 seconds and the coils will blow? It's just another thing to tell someone when they take my car to work on it or whatever
so the UTEC's advantages over the EU (when software/firmware for both is fully updated) so far that I can tell are that:
plug and play
doesn't burn out coils
can raise rev limiter
can adjust idle
knock feedback tuning
anything else?
I feel stupid for paying basically $1150 for the EU, but because Vivid Racing don't know how to wire, I almost had no choice cause I didn't want to deal with it again. That and kinda irritated that not all of the features fully work yet
$600 for EU and harness
$300 for autosport harness
$250 for sharif to prewire it up to the autosport
The UTEC is $1050 and is more capable
Also remember that the price of the basic UTEC doesnt include things like wideband feedback, knock feedback, and the pressure sensor for the FI guys. Being a dealer for all of these units, I think, gives me the unique ability to talk about the strength and weakness of both units, without playing favorite to one.
Does that make sense?
#535
the burninator
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yeah I mean, I'm not knocking the EU or anything, I have really good results with it and I barely know anything about tuning to make a judgement.
It's just seeing the UTEC coming out soon which on paper sounds like it might cost less than the route I went and be more capable - I know most people would probably just buy the EU and wire it up for a grand total of like $650 and a few hours of wiring or so and that's a pretty killer deal.
I probably could have had Dynocomp wire mine up and then could have saved the $300 for the autosport harness, but given my circumstances with my situation it was just easier to get the autosport harness so the EU could be checked out and fixed. Cause Dynocomp would have been pulling their hair out trying to figure out how to use a unit they've never worked with before if I brought it to them all messed up from Vivid Racing's mess up and I'd get charged labor.
hehe cars and computers always have something better coming out right after you buy something I mean, I can see the new APS EMS coming out in a few months and everyone drooling over that and wishing they bought that instead of UTEC or EU or whatever
It's just seeing the UTEC coming out soon which on paper sounds like it might cost less than the route I went and be more capable - I know most people would probably just buy the EU and wire it up for a grand total of like $650 and a few hours of wiring or so and that's a pretty killer deal.
I probably could have had Dynocomp wire mine up and then could have saved the $300 for the autosport harness, but given my circumstances with my situation it was just easier to get the autosport harness so the EU could be checked out and fixed. Cause Dynocomp would have been pulling their hair out trying to figure out how to use a unit they've never worked with before if I brought it to them all messed up from Vivid Racing's mess up and I'd get charged labor.
hehe cars and computers always have something better coming out right after you buy something I mean, I can see the new APS EMS coming out in a few months and everyone drooling over that and wishing they bought that instead of UTEC or EU or whatever
Last edited by sentry65; 10-13-2005 at 03:09 PM.
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Originally Posted by sentry65
I'm more concerned about people who are not me who might leave it in the ON position - for what? 60 seconds and the coils will blow? It's just another thing to tell someone when they take my car to work on it or whatever
Also no doubt on the ease of the UTEC, hence so popular with the WRX/STI/EVO crowd...
Infact UTEC was my first choice, but because of my problems before I had to do something past the flashed ECU... So when EU came out and Sharif was already running it, figured well pick it up now then most likely move on to the UTEC... But now after what Sharif has been able to do, and how cool data loggin is with the EU... I don't even consider it
Though I am very lucky to be some what close to Sharif so he could do all the wiring and tuning. But if I wasn't then it would be honestly to complex for me to do, and unless someone else with experience was near by... I would be looking at other engine managment means so I hear ya there too.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Also remember that the price of the basic UTEC doesnt include things like wideband feedback, knock feedback, and the pressure sensor for the FI guys. Being a dealer for all of these units, I think, gives me the unique ability to talk about the strength and weakness of both units, without playing favorite to one.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
What size injectors? I havent seen this before, unless the injector scaling is off. My my experience, depending on the size of the injectors, you might wanna try the airflow adjustment map for some of your injector scaling, as it tends to idle a little bit better than direct IPW reduction.
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Here's another question to the people who have been running this for awhile:
Vehicle Speed Map- Anyone had success with it? It is intended to correct load problems. For instance, if your car was tuned for lets say 4th gear you might run rich in the low gears and lean in 5 or 6. The Speed map allows you to compensate for this.
I would like to use the A/F target map to adjust the Speed map for a "complete" tune. Any thoughts on this idea?
Vehicle Speed Map- Anyone had success with it? It is intended to correct load problems. For instance, if your car was tuned for lets say 4th gear you might run rich in the low gears and lean in 5 or 6. The Speed map allows you to compensate for this.
I would like to use the A/F target map to adjust the Speed map for a "complete" tune. Any thoughts on this idea?
#540
Originally Posted by folex187
I've been using the standard "Before" and "After" boxes in the I/J screen within the Parameters. It will make the changes fine after warm-up but throws everything off on cold starts.