JAMBO

iTrader: (2)

Will this combination be as useful or as effective if i just use a higher octane
blend say 95 octane ? Or just a tank full of 100 + octane race gas ?
I wanna daily driver too ya know

350zDCalb

iTrader: (21)

any pics of where u mounted the tank?
where does one buy methanol?

nitrous350

iTrader: (1)

Sorry about that I can't take a Pics. of tank
I don't had a water Injection water tank , I'm used stock window washer tank

as you guys know 350Z with F/I mod. The engine room is confined place
so I just used stock window washer

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

let's say you don't have any detonation and everything looks great at 12 psi and you're pushing 500 whp...Aren't you seriously risking for the rods or anything else to break at this point if you're running a stock block? I thought 480 whp is pretty much as high as you can push the stock rods and pistons.

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, I was thinking of doing this too, but wasn't sure if I would or not.

I was actually thinking about running it from the hatch area (both pump and tank would need to be there if I did) and just run the line to the engine. It is a long way, but I can fit a bigger tank and the water would be cooler as it entered the engine.

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

Thats why I am looking we are looking at water injection, just for that added security at those power levels. As more time passes I'm sure we will see more and more people at 10+ psi and 500+rwhp on the stock block (there are already 2 or 3 that I have seen on here).

I think the reason so many people where blowing motors before at the 400-450 rwhp mark wasn't because of power but because of a slight inperfection in the tune, but now people are more experienced and whatnot, so the limits are just getting extended.

mrtomcat

iTrader: (3)

I thought that the stock rods and piston are only certified to hold up to 480 (or around that). I guess only time will tell we'll see how long the above 500 whp stock blocks will last...

Phatmitzu

iTrader: (34)

subscribing

nitrous350

iTrader: (1)

My 1/4mil Time ....
and also my car is 5AT Trans.....

atlsupdawg#2

Hey JAMBO, it'll depend on how much boost you want to run and how convenient it would be for you to consistently fill up with high octane fuel. Based on the octane ratings you listed I could definetly see you running a little more boost than if you just used one or the other. Now when you start getting into some of the higher rated fuels like C16 I'd think there'd be very little use for a H2O injection system. Also keep in mind that if you add meth or alcohol this will raise the octane of your fuel as well.

I honsetly believe that the main weak point of this motor, as with any motor not built for boost, are the pistons. In particular the thickness of the ring lands (or lack thereof in our case). Not saying they won't hold up to high boost or HP but they definetly won't tolerate a sloppy tune. One episode of detonation would be enough to waste the stock pistons whereas an aftermarket set would sustain a lot more abuse.

As far as rods are concerned I think the only time you would really need to swap them out is if you planned on running some ungodly amount of power or you raise the stock rev limiter significantly. Contrary to what many believe rods endure more RPM related stress than they do from raising the HP via F/I. Granted though your engine doesn't per-ignite. Corky Bell's book got into the physics of why this is true. The only rod failure I have seen, other than from pre-ignition, was a guy that ran an 8500 rev limit which essentially just sheared the rod end right off.

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

atlsupdawg, thanks for that info...

Also, what if you were to run a methanol/water mix...is 50/50 best? What kind of methanol should be used (if there are any variants)? How much does it cost and where is the best place to buy it in a large enough quantity?

atlsupdawg#2

002-M-P,
Hey no problem man glad I can contribute. I actually got 100% Methyl Alcohol (methanol) from a friend of mine and can't remember for the life of me where he got it. Try contacting some chemical stores in your area, I'm sure they'll point you in the right direction.

As far as mixing, usually 50/50 is good but no more than this of the meth. Some people use lower percentages to use only as an anti-freezing agent but again the more you add the more it'll positively affect your fuels octane level. You don't necessarily have to go with 100% meth. You can also use windshield washer fluid (not windex ) which is basically diluted meth or denatured alcohol from Home Depot or Lowes.

G3po

iTrader: (8)

Useing the OEM washer tank is a good idea since it already provides a low water indication on the dash. If the correct volume of water is sprayed a washer tank should easily last a tank of gas. Even with methonol added the fluid can still be used to wash your windshield if need be. Most freeze proof washer fluids already contain methanol.

Also cooler water from the holding tank yields measurably " nothing".
The measurable cooling effect is due to the endothermic (sucks up heat) phase change (water to vapor) in the combustion chamber..

galopi

ive used coolingmists setup, let me raise 5 psi over stock and net me a gain of about 45 hp and 50 ft lbs to the rear wheels, it was on my 4 banger but hey it worked.

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

Thats good info right there. Now I know I won't be running anything into the cabin, if their are no true benefits that make it worth while.

I have decided I am going to be going with the Coolingmist Dual Stage 100psi kit, w/ the clogged nozzle sensors, a check valve for stage one, a solenoid for stage 2, a 2.5 qt pre-tapped tank, and the relay harness. It should come out to be about $375 or so.

I'm not sure on nozzle sized yet, I guess I will discuss that with coolingmist when i call them later this week, unless you guys know anything more about the nozzle sizes to use.

atlsupdawg#2

002-M-P,
Don't mean to hijac your thread here bro. Been wondering something and wanted to see if anyone's got any idea.

I know most people locate the injection nozzle(s) close to the throttle body (as did I) on the intake tubing. Do you think it would make a difference if the nozzle(s) were tapped into the intake plenum itself? Seems like you'd have a wider dispersement of the cooling fluid if you sprayed into the manifold and less restriction from the throttle body (if there is a restriction at all).

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

Its cool man, its the same subject anyway...

I think I read on the coolingmist website that you need it to be as far from the engine as possible but after the MAF. This way the water could truly atomize and do its work before it even got close to the cylinders. I will see if I can find that info though.

002-M-P

iTrader: (12)

Ok I found this under the Install section of Coolingmist's website...

Dual Stage....
Single Stage...

G3po

iTrader: (8)

Same basic advise is also given by Aquamist FYI.

Another good addtion is to use an in cab oil/fuel; psi guage to monitor nozzle pressure. I've use one for about 8 years now and it provides good visiblity to general WI status and potential impending plugged nozzle(s). I use a simple switch to select either fuel psi -oe-water psi to be monitored by a common gauge.

atlsupdawg#2

002-M-P,
Thanks for taking the time to post what you found. I guess you really can't argue with the experts but as G3po mentioned in his reply above, most of the benefit of h20/alky injection takes place in the combustion chamber where there's enough thermal heat to actually convert water to steam. The intake charge just doesn't get hot enough to do this. In essence the intake charge is just a carrier for the h20/alky. Plus, the further away you mount your nozzle the more you'd have to contend evaporation.

When I installed my previous system I mounted the nozzle as close to the throttle body as possible. I did have to play around with different nozzle sizes to find the right one. I didn't really want to go through the hassle of rebuilding a motor that's been hydro-locked.

Anyway, I'm just ranting. The nozzle location has been proven to work well where it is and it did for me. I just wanted to question the "norm" that's all .