Blew My Motor On A Aps Tt
Originally Posted by ThetunerFestNJ
Most likelt ROD end bearing failure.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I would actually doubt that since the motor still runs...if there was a rod bearing failure, it would have caused a rod failure and he'd have at least one hole in his block and a motor that doesn't run.
Originally Posted by paranormal
yes i had it dynoed after the kit was installed... im staring at one of the dyno sheets right now.. i dont have the end tune sheet with me.. but on this one im at 408.69 rwhp and 344.98 tq with a 11.61 air fuel
my end tune was 420 rwhp and 360 tq. with 11.4 i think or maybe a little lower.. but def safe...
i really dont remember the rpm.. but i was not "getting on it" if thats what your asking..
my end tune was 420 rwhp and 360 tq. with 11.4 i think or maybe a little lower.. but def safe...
i really dont remember the rpm.. but i was not "getting on it" if thats what your asking..
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
I would actually doubt that since the motor still runs...if there was a rod bearing failure, it would have caused a rod failure and he'd have at least one hole in his block and a motor that doesn't run.
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
The rods aren't the issue here. 287 or 300hp motor wise. It's become the general consensus that since we have more people that ever boosted and less failures than ever, that 95% of these motor failures are tuning, install or upkeep issues. No one knows the strength of the stock rods yet because we don't have a consistant high power level that motors "pop"...
From what we've seen (tuned over 100 350Z&G35's) and countless hours of research and work with the factory ECU code the leading reason for rod failure is improper timing.
The factory ECU has very high timing and this is not ideal for forced induction. Additionally, there are several timing maps in the factory ECU. We have found that when the 350Z&G35 is on the dyno it commonly runs from the main timing map. The downside is that the factory computer can advance the timing, which is a major contributor to engine failure.
Case in point, I stabilized the factory timing maps on my personal 350Z. It has been a while sense my Z has been on the dyno (I last dynoed around 450rwhp @9psi) but have sense then used my wideband to run 10/11psi on pump gas with a 7,400rpm rev limiter - on a bone stock motor!
I am concerned for those with APS/Unichip and GReddy/E-Manage setups that do not have an ECU stabilization upgrade. I know some people have dialed in their Z & G to run spectacularly over the summer. But I am afraid this has been done without keeping in mind and/or having enough experience to realize the effects cooler weather will have on their tune this winter. I know this because I have had the opportunity to check and/or service several 350Z & G35’s that have been originally setup elsewhere.
I cannot stress enough for those people to speak with their tuner and make sure their vehicle is ready for the cooler temperatures and enough timing has been removed to compensate for the add'l timing the factory ECU may potentially add this winter.
Hope this helps,
Mike
Last edited by Mike@Altered; Oct 14, 2005 at 07:25 AM.
****ty jimmy.. hopefully everything turns out okay for you.
trust me, i have the same string of luck (sans the blown motor) with cars. My custom 20's for the g got rocked by Fedex and my 4.6 20's for my x5 also go beaten up by Fedex. I also had body shop issues and dealings with bad body parts and paint issues. unless you can do everything yourself and always be 100% hands on with it, there will always be problems; no one ever treats your car with as much respect as you would.
good luck..
trust me, i have the same string of luck (sans the blown motor) with cars. My custom 20's for the g got rocked by Fedex and my 4.6 20's for my x5 also go beaten up by Fedex. I also had body shop issues and dealings with bad body parts and paint issues. unless you can do everything yourself and always be 100% hands on with it, there will always be problems; no one ever treats your car with as much respect as you would.
good luck..
Originally Posted by Alberto
My old car I spun a rod bearing, and it still ran knocking its a$$ off. I drove it 25 minutes that way to the mechanic that did the motor for me....didnt damage the block, and the crank journal and rod were fine after machining.
Originally Posted by beastie
How do you get ECU stabilization?
In the future (late winter / next spring-summer as far as I've been told) you will be able to input direct timing with several boxes including the UTEC, Unichip, and Emange EU. This will be a welcome feature for those without an ecu flash stabalization because these units should output the actual timing desired (vs. subtracting or adding off what the ecu if outputting for timing).
Hope this helps,
Mike
Originally Posted by ThetunerFestNJ
If your refering to the timing maps,either a reflash or the UTEC will do it,since it fires the coils and totally controls the timing.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
2) The firware version 1.06 and beyond lets you add timing. You tuner is correct, in that the ECU still controls the timing, but the EU adds and subtracts from that. In about 2-3 weeks, Greddy is released a ROM chip upgrade, that will allow you to actually set the timing in the tables, rather than offsets. This will be a huge improvement for all of us.
Last edited by Gman2004; Oct 14, 2005 at 01:58 PM.
Originally Posted by neffster
Does the split second box/R4 software suffer from the ECU stabilization issue as well?
I talked to Jason and Julian from MRC last night,I stopped by and saw the motor out of the car with the oil pan off.Just as suspected,shards of rod bearings in the oil pan,rod end bearing failure on at least 2 rods..What causes rod end bearing failure?




