My car is back in the shop having the ARP studs retorqued. They got the motor tore apart and the studs are tight as can be, they haven't loosened at all. Has anyone else successfully retorqued the studs? Does anyone know where they should be torqued to originally or after break in? The guy who assembled the motor didn't return the paperwork with the studs.

Also, has anyone tried the Kometix head gasket? The shop, while not well experianced with VQ35s, keep saying that I should upgrade my stock head gasket to prevent problems, but I haven't heard anything good about the aftermarket head gaskets for the VQ35???? Thanks!

 

stock multi-layer headgasket is great, no need for upgrade.

 

Even at 16psi???

 

I believe Sharif told me the ARP head bolts dont need to be re-trq. Sharif ????

 

I've heard both ways, but wanted to error on the side of engine safety on this one. It seems like I've read about several people having hg issues at higher boost levels. From what I've read on here I believe that retorquing them WILL help. My only problem is that I'm not sure if the studs were retorqued during the motor building.

 

Main stud nuts should be 60 ft.lbs Head stud nuts should be 70 ft.lbs...... with moly lube. Studs themselves only go in finger tight with moly lube.

 

There are several people that SHOULD chime in here. They have no idea I know who they are but...

I believe the stock head gaskets on built motor are going at a rather high rate. I would think someone would know something...

 

I ran 23 psi with a stock Honda head gasket in an S2000. My buddy ran 27 psi with the stock gasket and it was fine also. I think stock gaskets these days are pretty strong. ARP recommends retorquing the nuts, but it's such a pain in the *** to do in a VQ that nobody actually goes through with it. 16 psi with stock gaskets is a normal occurance on many turbo motors from the factory, and many Hondas out there (which obviously aren't turbo from the factory)

 

No-one has really had headgasket issues....YET. With ARP headbolts everything should be O.K. Keep in mind that to re-torque the head bolts the cams have to be removed......so it is in the neighborhood of 12-16 hrs to just do the studs. Might as well swap in some new JWT cams while you are in there.

 

Please reread my first post! My nuts are being retorqued right now. I know that not many people do it, but I think if everyone was open and honest about their car, its performance, and how things really should be done then I believe you would hear more about who retorques, who doesn't, and who wishes that they did. I'm totally with you on this one Neffster....


Those 2JZ-GTE Supra boys are running 800whp on stock bottom ends, so does that mean that us VQ35 guys can keep our stock rods? Comparing Honda head gaskets to Nissan head gaskets on completely different motors doesn't do us much good here, unfortunately. Although I have heard that the stock gasket is a high quality gasket, one has to wonder how high quality of a head gasket Nissan designed to be used on a motor with terrible rods...........

 

I already have JWT cams! I know its going to be a big job, they have half the motor apart right now. There are a few nuts you can get to without taking the cams out, and those are the ones that they tried to retorque. When they couldn't get them to move at all they asked me if they should go through with taking the cams out, as they expected that they were all going to be as tight as the first few.

 

I totally agree. The only reason to go Cometic gaskets is when boring over 96mm. The stock gaskets are good for 700+ Rwhp easy.

I also don't believe the ARP studs need to be retorqued if they were installed properly the first time.

 

Power Enterprise have now released a headgasket for the VQ35.