Well where should I start last saturday I was driving in torrance close to home I decided to hit boost@ 8psi I heard a loud audible pop and then as I moved forward i saw a long thick dark oil slick so i tried to pull over but my car lost its momentum so a cop pulled over and then helped me push my car into a adjacent parking lot. I immediately called my friend Aki from AIM corp in HB for all you who were at the performance nissan meet he was the japanese dude with the 900whp r32 gtr. Within 1hour I had my 350z towed to his shop. we checked under the car and could clearly see my crankshaft sticking out the bottom and could clearly see a couple of large visible holes. Aki's perfesional answer was your rods went. well for all you who are running on stock internals To save yourself the down time of your car I would recommend building a vq that can handle boost reliably. tHE QUESTION CAME UP WHY DID YOU PUSH YOUR CAR THE REASON WE FI ARE CARS IS SO WE CAN FEEL THE BOOST NOT So WE can say are car HAS A KIT. IN MY OPINION JUST SLAPPING ON A KIT TO SAY YOU HAVE ONE IS A WASTE. FOR THE RECORD I was running 8psi on a turbonectics kit for three months before it went. My car should be up and running by april. Attached is my whole build plan. THE ENGINE COMES OUT THIS WEEK AND I WILL POST PICS OF THE BLOWN VQ AND OF THE NEW built vq as they come. My goal is 575Rwhp. Hope to see you at the motorsports z meet in orange.


Short Block assy 1 4595.73
Metal Head gasket 1 main Bearings 4
F-tune CP Forged piston kit 6
F-tune Calliro Connectingrods 6
ARP stud Head 1
ARP stud Main
Metal Head gasket 1 US$234.00
Highlift camshaft intake 66 1 US$832.00
Reimax Highlift camshaft exhaust 64 US$832.00
Nismo main Bearings 4 US$341.25
Nismo connectingrod bearings US$273.78
Nismo lowtemp thermo 1 US$132.30
Nismo Racing plug 6 US$317.52
Nismo Fuel regurater US$270.00
Oil cooler 1 US$900.00
Genuine parts 1 US$500.00
Engine oil 1 US$50.00
Short parts 1 US$60.oo
bore & hone cylinder block with TP 1 US$578.00
dynamic balance crankshaft 1 US$135.00
polish journal 1 US$200.00
surface cylinder head and lap 1 US$160.00
Engine install 1 US$1,000.00
Dyno test & setting 1 US$1,000.00
Oil cooler install 1 US$600.00
engine overhaul 1 US$2,000.00
porting

 

Damn bro!! I hope this is not who I think this is. PM me!!

 

whoa!!! some of those prices look WAY to expensive. $2k porting! send them to me, i'll do them for $1899, lol. that bore and hone is about $350 more than it needs to be. $1660 cams, head gaskets $234? $320 plugs!?!?!?

dang man, i would get a second price on that one. some of those prices are robbery.

 

I know this guy and he does not even have a boost controller. All he has is the reflash and a boost gauge. WOW is all I can say

 

why wow.... the tnetics kit is supposed to be perfect outa the box... i mean personally I wouldnt really see the point in having a afr guage or anything, not like you can tune it unless u buy something else. atleast this is only the first engine to go.

 

it sucks that this had to happen now man hopefully youl be up and running soon. you know we got some supras to hunt down.

Hammad

 

Well no matter what kit you should always have at least a boost gauge and AFR gauge so you can monitor things and know what is going on, not all things come out as expected so just becuase the kit is out of the box and uses a reflash you shold not assume things will be fine.

I have had mine on stock internals for 19K miles and I beat it, did you dyno the car after the install? what was your AF at that time?

 

def. not the first there is a guy in va that had a problem like this he had stock turbonetics kit and pop his motor it was most likly due because of the reflash although we would like to think that it is safe in fact its always a good idea just to get a tune. After spending 5k 800 bucks sound fair to make sure eveything is safe and to put that bad boy on a dyno to get tuned.

 

yeah I don't care who tunes your car or what, ALWAYS have a wideband setup in a boosted car. ALWAYS!

If he had an AFR we could see what the culprit was. I'd really like to know what really caused it other than some highway robbery prices and a guy saying some rods went. IMO the first thing to go would be the pistons due to the high ring lands...........something doesn't seem right.

 

and how do you propose tuning a reflash? Spend another $800 on management?

 

Very sorry to hear about your car... I really want to build my motor but am not able to do so at the moment ( wallet now paying for vacation ) How many miles did you get before this happened ? I was running 9 psi on my APS TT and now retuned for 13 psi on 100 octane. I feel I only have limited time (hope I'm just paranoid - trying to be realistic)...although the funny thing is my shop seems to have more faith in the VQ ( and their tuning ). Scott Perfornance did my car.
Another car out of that shop was running 15 psi until Brian ( BigBri ) over reved his engine by mis-shifting and developed an oil leak. The leak and his car running rougher and rougher eventually proved to be his motor on it's death bed
After install did you have your cars "out of the box" tune checked on a dyno?

Hope things work out soon for ya...and definately shop some of those part prices around.

Peace

 

how much would just pistons and rods cost for parts and the labor to put them?

 

I keep forgeting that TN cannot be tuned and that the aps kit can but none the less more reason i geuss to buy the tuner kit ?

 

I would say the same thing but once you crack that baby open you might as well do all you can while it is open.

 

motors don't throw rods for no reason..There has to be something behind it. I'm guessing Oil starvation is the likely cause, heating up a rod bearing enough to freeze it in place and throw the rod............

 

I didnt add up all you have listed , but dam that looks close to $15,000.00 , for a built motor and install and tune...I did it twice for that much money . You better shop around and save your self some money

 

don't you mean you did it for half that?

 

Wow this thread is dumb. A motor doesn't just turn on and "decide" to pop one day. There's always a reason for it. Saying it's the kit's fault that your motor blew up shows that you have no idea what was wrong or what precautions you forgot to take. I guarantee there's a good explanation for the reason that involves an error in the install or the maintenance of the kit.

 

First time..ringland broke and bent a valve . Second time was to replace pistons and correct a mistakes on my order

 

It seems like trouble with the TN setups comes in small waves Bad Rod Bearing

I agree a motor doesn't let go for no reason, but I personally think it comes back to the completeness of a setup. Even if he had a wideband AFR, unless he paid the money for a tunable EMS, all he could do is watch his AFRs and not drive the car if they were dangerous or attempt a second, or third reflash. He was lead to believe this kit was safe out of box - and yes, safe is a relative term - and yes, it very well could have been install related, but that doesn't change the fact he is pricing out a new motor and staring some downtime in the face.

As everyone has stated, get a second set of quotes on those prices. I know you could build two motors for that price and still have some money left over.

Good luck on the build and high HP