yeah I'm running a different belt setup, I think I documented what it is that was done and part numbers etc on the last couple pages. You'll need a different size belt too

It does help prevent slip and is easier on the bearings. It takes a bit to do and will delay your install to have the idler pulley machined or if you bought a replacement pulley which might take awhile to be delivered since it isn't a commonly stocked part...I do have my stock pulley I think still I might be willing to sell after I get some more miles on my car though, but it'd probably be a month or so before I'd want to sell it

Really though, for the stock power levels or even the 3.12 pulley, belt slip probably isn't nearly as much of an issue as when you start going for higher boost

 

yea i've dont the research and i think im not going above the 3.12 pully w/ stock internals/injectors. im hoping to hit 400rwhp next week on the dyno.

 

here's some more pictures I took the other day. Some people were wanting to see some better pictures of the belt setup and water injection nozzle, etc

 

Good stuff. Do you know if that pulley mod allows the belt to not have to be as tight to work properly? I fear that having the belt sooo tight is just gonaa end up killing parts fast.

 

Looking at the design of it, I've been thinking you don't have to crank the belt so tight to reach high boost. I mean, the normal design has the belt being tight around everything except the supercharger pulley which is probably where the least tension is.

From what I can tell, this belt design evens things out a little more so there isn't such a drastic difference in tension

 

had some minor work done

had an X-pipe welded into the APS exhaust - sounds better IMO than as a true dual. In a way it's slightly quieter with it, but it sounds more like a Z than it did with the pipes being seperate.

had my front brake pads changed from hawk HP+ to Axis Ultimates. There's less bite, but the squeeling is gone which I lived with for almost a year and was getting tired of hearing all the time - it's not like I'm always going to bed in my brakes every month either to reduce the squeeling.

I had the SPC toe bolts installed and got my rear camber to -1.6 degrees. Previously it was -3.5 as it turned out. I had to remove the small GTspec tie brace that connects to the toe bolts because the toe bolts are now more towards the center of the car. The GTspec bar can probably be modified to make it fit, but I honestly don't think that particular bar does a whole lot. I can't say I've noticed it being gone anyway. The other GTspec bars are the ones that really seem to make a difference

that's about it. I had some fluids changed too etc.

I think my tires are slightly flat spotted. After my last dyno session, ABS is disabled for a bit and I had a couple really hard stops without ABS and had wheel lock. So now I have some fairly severe vibration around 70-75mph, especially when I give it a little throttle, just cruising on the highway. It only started happening after those two times I locked the wheels. Oh well, hope it smooths out. There's a chance it might be lots of things I recently changed though and I'm going to have to troubleshoot it piece by piece


I bought the Fcon V-pro from GTM and will be going there sometime mid to late april. I'd go sooner but I have some things going on with some projects with my job. Sam sounded pretty confident he could find what the issue was with my fuel pressure and fix it - and also install the CJM stage 2 fuel line while we're at it.

 

I assume that the x-pipe is just regular steel.

 

it's stainless, I didn't bother to polish it or anything

 

So do we have a fix for our fuel issues?

 

not at the moment

in mid to late april I'm going to GTM to see if they can figure it out, and also install the stage 2 hard fuel line.

 

oh BTW the part number for the belt I'm using with the 2.87 pulley and the TIMROD belt mod plus extra pully is

GATES belt (this one was sold by NAPA so has the NAPA logo on it)
part # 5610217
It also has the number "25-060910" written on it


About the extra pulley I have by the jackshaft pulley,
I talked to my installer and he said he bought the pulley from one of their suppliers. If you call Dynocomp and ask for Jon he can probably sell you one
480-596-0500, then press 2

he said there was a hole already in place, but it had to be drilled out a little bigger. He did have to put a bolt through it and tap it which they had sitting around the shop.

The pulley looks to have a diameter somewhere around 2.5 inches or so just from eyeballing it. I haven't measured it or anything though - I'm not sure if they actually measure the surface area that the belt wraps around or they also count the size of the lip with it.

 

just subscribing...lots of good info here. thanks a lot for posting this!

 

great info, ill be going f/i in early september, if i do the new belt setup what belt would i have to use with a 3.12 pulley??

 

Hey sentry, will GT-SPEC 4 Point Mid Chassis Brace help get tractions at launch? If not, is there anything that will help?

 

no...


tires and LSD mainly

solid mounts, stiffer bushings, more rear weight bias, and soft rear springs after that

 

Hey sentry, is this the belt? Imperial Length:91.68" (2329mm)

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...t+-+Serpentine

 

probably

 

i read u were using the 34 tooth cog pulley instead of the 28T cog pulley but u are still only making 11psi? I thought u were suppose to make more psi due to the smaller pulley?

 

i'm not using the 34 cog pulley, and am not about to push my luck on the stock block for 20 more whp. IMO my car is making enough power for me to be happy with it. If what I have isn't good enough to where I need that extra 20whp, then I bought the wrong car and setup.

The 34 tooth cog pulley is larger than the stock 32. It's on the other side of the jackshaft
I said that it was an option available to me to make more power. Boost would probably rise 1 psi
I'll go with the 34 tooth pulley when I build the engine.

and because I know someone will ask me:
no you can't just go out and buy a 34 tooth cog pulley. You have to have one custom made. GTM has made them before, give them a call if you want one