brake boosting a TT 350z.
06-15-2007, 10:19 AM
#162
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Guys, these haven't shipped yet, I haven't had any time to work on them this week. Hopefully they will ship this coming Monday. I think (from memory) only 3 people sent money to test these out.
06-15-2007, 11:47 AM
#163
Originally Posted by KPierson
Guys, these haven't shipped yet, I haven't had any time to work on them this week. Hopefully they will ship this coming Monday. I think (from memory) only 3 people sent money to test these out.
06-15-2007, 12:07 PM
#164
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Hmm... like I said I would if I had a running car.
I'm not an electronic genius by any means, but I could order one and install it on the car next month when its back up. Let me know if I can still send money over.
I'm not an electronic genius by any means, but I could order one and install it on the car next month when its back up. Let me know if I can still send money over.
06-15-2007, 07:52 PM
#165
Originally Posted by taurran
Hmm... like I said I would if I had a running car.
I'm not an electronic genius by any means, but I could order one and install it on the car next month when its back up. Let me know if I can still send money over.
I'm not an electronic genius by any means, but I could order one and install it on the car next month when its back up. Let me know if I can still send money over.
I just saw your car today.....very nice looking Z.... I especially like that hood!!
06-16-2007, 07:41 AM
#166
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What about including the VDC button in this module so that you can still keep a factory look and the VDC button is a VERY easy spot to do this.
I know I personally thought it was bad *** to use the CC button on a VW GTI to change between fuel maps, so using the VDC button for this would be pretty nice, even if it doesn't alter the function of the VDC system itself.
Did you make this a switch or a constantly running thing tied into an ACC signal so that when the car is on, it's on and performing the signal masking/pulsing trick all the time?
Also, the instructions on what causes a light thrown says "an extremely long time while the vehicle is driving" without receiving the signal... anybody test to see exactly how long this "extremely long time" is???
The pulse, however slight, will change the throttle based on a brake signal detected. Have you thought about that and when this will occur? If you're artificially sending a signal saying everything's workin great, what about when this signal is sent oh... let's say just before the 1/8 mi. marker when at the track? Again, however slight, it is messin with your throttle position.
What I'm tryin to say is: can you stretch it to just barely not throw the light instead of making some random timing on the pulses that you know won't throw the light? How long can we go without the signal???
If you can get the pulse spaced out properly and tie this module into the VDC button (unless it's designed to be on all the time) then I'm up for one... if not I'll just make my own
I know I personally thought it was bad *** to use the CC button on a VW GTI to change between fuel maps, so using the VDC button for this would be pretty nice, even if it doesn't alter the function of the VDC system itself.
Did you make this a switch or a constantly running thing tied into an ACC signal so that when the car is on, it's on and performing the signal masking/pulsing trick all the time?
Also, the instructions on what causes a light thrown says "an extremely long time while the vehicle is driving" without receiving the signal... anybody test to see exactly how long this "extremely long time" is???
The pulse, however slight, will change the throttle based on a brake signal detected. Have you thought about that and when this will occur? If you're artificially sending a signal saying everything's workin great, what about when this signal is sent oh... let's say just before the 1/8 mi. marker when at the track? Again, however slight, it is messin with your throttle position.
What I'm tryin to say is: can you stretch it to just barely not throw the light instead of making some random timing on the pulses that you know won't throw the light? How long can we go without the signal???
If you can get the pulse spaced out properly and tie this module into the VDC button (unless it's designed to be on all the time) then I'm up for one... if not I'll just make my own
06-16-2007, 01:15 PM
#167
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It was originally designed to engage with the VDC button, but upon testing it was found that that isn't necesarry. It is just on all the time.
The 'extremly' long time is an extremely long time. I haven't tracked the actual miliage but it takes quite a bit of time. It will eventually throw a code and disable cruise control. I don't have the module in my car at all right now, and I drove the car to work to day (about 8 miles each way). The light didn't come on at all (the brake wire is completely disconnected from the ECU with the module out).
This module is designed for brake boosting and launching - both applications it won't matter if there is a 1S delay before it kicks in, as you should always have several seconds to prepare for the launch.
The 'extremly' long time is an extremely long time. I haven't tracked the actual miliage but it takes quite a bit of time. It will eventually throw a code and disable cruise control. I don't have the module in my car at all right now, and I drove the car to work to day (about 8 miles each way). The light didn't come on at all (the brake wire is completely disconnected from the ECU with the module out).
This module is designed for brake boosting and launching - both applications it won't matter if there is a 1S delay before it kicks in, as you should always have several seconds to prepare for the launch.
06-16-2007, 01:16 PM
#168
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Originally Posted by Cube
What I'm tryin to say is: can you stretch it to just barely not throw the light instead of making some random timing on the pulses that you know won't throw the light? How long can we go without the signal???
06-16-2007, 01:56 PM
#169
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Originally Posted by KPierson
It only pulses when you press the brake down, so they arn't 'randomly timed' pulses.
That way everytime you press the pedal there is a momentary signal that resets that timer that'll eventually throw a code...? If that's the case then this all makes sense and I'm right there witcha, good job
06-19-2007, 05:13 AM
#170
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All the test modules have been finished and are ready to ship. They will go out either later today or tomorrow (depends on when we ship next).
I don't have any install instructions yet, so I will have to Email those when they are finished. It's actually a pretty easy install:
Yellow - switched ignition power
Black - ground
Purple - Brake signal input from pedal
Orange - Brake signal output to ECU
On the '03-up 350Z the brake signal is a blue/orange (pin 101) wire, the ground is black (pin 1), and the switched ignition is white/blue (pin 109).
On the '03-up G35 the pin numbers are the same, but the brake signal wire is pink/blue.
As always, use a voltage meter to verify each wire before splicing in to it to make sure you got the right wire.
I don't have any install instructions yet, so I will have to Email those when they are finished. It's actually a pretty easy install:
Yellow - switched ignition power
Black - ground
Purple - Brake signal input from pedal
Orange - Brake signal output to ECU
On the '03-up 350Z the brake signal is a blue/orange (pin 101) wire, the ground is black (pin 1), and the switched ignition is white/blue (pin 109).
On the '03-up G35 the pin numbers are the same, but the brake signal wire is pink/blue.
As always, use a voltage meter to verify each wire before splicing in to it to make sure you got the right wire.
06-19-2007, 07:45 PM
#176
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I'm not sure. I would strongly encourage to install the module near the ECU, to make sure you are ONLY bypassing the ECU signal. The wire from the pedal, at some point, has to feed the brake lights. I'm honestly not sure if this is the same wire, or a different wire. By going straight to the ECU you insure that only this signal is interupted.
06-20-2007, 07:09 PM
#178
Originally Posted by KPierson
I'm not sure. I would strongly encourage to install the module near the ECU, to make sure you are ONLY bypassing the ECU signal. The wire from the pedal, at some point, has to feed the brake lights. I'm honestly not sure if this is the same wire, or a different wire. By going straight to the ECU you insure that only this signal is interupted.
