brake boosting a TT 350z.
03-15-2007, 06:05 AM
#82
Apparently the CEL light should not come on though a code will be issued and the car may enter "fail safe" mode. Kevin's module will work best as it won't pose a safety hazard that a simple toggle switch would as the cruise won't disengage either when you brake if you have a manual switch in there:
DTC P1805 BRAKE SWITCH PFP:25320
Description ABS003JR
Brake switch signal is applied to the ECM through the stop lamp switch when the brake pedal is depressed.
This signal is used mainly to decrease the engine speed when the vehicle is driving.
CONSULT-II Reference Value in Data Monitor Mode ABS003JS
Specification data are reference values.
On Board Diagnosis Logic ABS003JT
The MIL will not light up for this diagnosis.
FAIL-SAFE MODE
When the malfunction is detected, the ECM enters fail-safe mode.
DTC Confirmation Procedure ABS003JU
WITH CONSULT-II
1. Turn ignition switch ON.
2. Fully depress the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
3. Erase the DTC with CONSULT-II.
4. Select “DATA MONITOR” mode with CONSULT-II.
5. If 1st trip DTC is detected, go to EC-538, "Diagnostic Procedure"
.
WITH GST
Follow the procedure “WITH CONSULT-II” above.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
BRAKE SW Ignition switch: ON
Brake pedal: Fully released OFF
Brake pedal: Slightly depressed ON
DTC No. Trouble diagnosis name DTC detecting condition Possible cause
P1805
1805
Brake switch
A brake switch signal is not sent to ECM for an
extremely long time while the vehicle is driving.
Harness or connectors
(Stop lamp switch circuit is open or
shorted.)
Stop lamp switch
Engine operating condition in fail-safe mode
ECM controls the electric throttle control actuator by regulating the throttle opening to a small range.
Therefore, acceleration will be poor.
Vehicle condition Driving condition
When engine is idling Normal
When accelerating Poor acceleration
SEF058Y
DTC P1805 BRAKE SWITCH PFP:25320
Description ABS003JR
Brake switch signal is applied to the ECM through the stop lamp switch when the brake pedal is depressed.
This signal is used mainly to decrease the engine speed when the vehicle is driving.
CONSULT-II Reference Value in Data Monitor Mode ABS003JS
Specification data are reference values.
On Board Diagnosis Logic ABS003JT
The MIL will not light up for this diagnosis.
FAIL-SAFE MODE
When the malfunction is detected, the ECM enters fail-safe mode.
DTC Confirmation Procedure ABS003JU
WITH CONSULT-II
1. Turn ignition switch ON.
2. Fully depress the brake pedal for at least 5 seconds.
3. Erase the DTC with CONSULT-II.
4. Select “DATA MONITOR” mode with CONSULT-II.
5. If 1st trip DTC is detected, go to EC-538, "Diagnostic Procedure"
.
WITH GST
Follow the procedure “WITH CONSULT-II” above.
MONITOR ITEM CONDITION SPECIFICATION
BRAKE SW Ignition switch: ON
Brake pedal: Fully released OFF
Brake pedal: Slightly depressed ON
DTC No. Trouble diagnosis name DTC detecting condition Possible cause
P1805
1805
Brake switch
A brake switch signal is not sent to ECM for an
extremely long time while the vehicle is driving.
Harness or connectors
(Stop lamp switch circuit is open or
shorted.)
Stop lamp switch
Engine operating condition in fail-safe mode
ECM controls the electric throttle control actuator by regulating the throttle opening to a small range.
Therefore, acceleration will be poor.
Vehicle condition Driving condition
When engine is idling Normal
When accelerating Poor acceleration
SEF058Y
03-15-2007, 08:36 AM
#85
Kevin,
Would this thing do basically the same thing as what you are designing? There'd be no way to tie it into the VDC, but other than that (so it would be active all the time)...
http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/528T.html
I'm just wondering why would you need to ever turn it off? That is, when you press the break, the ECU gets a pulse rather than a continuous feed from the brake switch. Any harm in that?
EDIT: I just ordered one off ebay - will let you know if it works... (though I am NOT boosted so can't test that too well - what I can test is a brake torque launching)
Would this thing do basically the same thing as what you are designing? There'd be no way to tie it into the VDC, but other than that (so it would be active all the time)...
http://www.caraudio-caralarms.com/528T.html
I'm just wondering why would you need to ever turn it off? That is, when you press the break, the ECU gets a pulse rather than a continuous feed from the brake switch. Any harm in that?
EDIT: I just ordered one off ebay - will let you know if it works... (though I am NOT boosted so can't test that too well - what I can test is a brake torque launching)
Last edited by rcdash; 03-15-2007 at 10:47 AM.
03-15-2007, 07:08 PM
#86
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I didn't run in to any problems with it, its done and just sitting there.
RCDash, that should work. My only concern with it would be the fact that it uses a mechanical relay on the brake wire that will pulse every time you hit the brake pedal. However, since this is not a critical circuit if it were to fail (typically relay is rated for 100,000 or so cycles) it really wouldn't be a big deal. You may also want to think about mounting locations, as you may actually hear it click every time you hit the brake pedal. A little insulation and some creative thinking can fix that too, if it is a problem.
I'm not sure if there would ever be a reason to not bypass the system.
RCDash, that should work. My only concern with it would be the fact that it uses a mechanical relay on the brake wire that will pulse every time you hit the brake pedal. However, since this is not a critical circuit if it were to fail (typically relay is rated for 100,000 or so cycles) it really wouldn't be a big deal. You may also want to think about mounting locations, as you may actually hear it click every time you hit the brake pedal. A little insulation and some creative thinking can fix that too, if it is a problem.
I'm not sure if there would ever be a reason to not bypass the system.
03-15-2007, 07:47 PM
#87
it was $16 bucks shipped on ebay; so i said what the heck. i have another project i can use it for if this is a no-go.
good point on the mechanical relay - didn't know it was using a mechanical one actually. I will add an indicator LED so that I can easily tell if it's working (if it doesn't have one).
or maybe i'll know cause the clicking will stop! actually i figure I press the brake maybe 10-20 times a day (gotta like living in NC!) at most. that's what 5000 days or about 12+ years worth of use if it lasts for 100k cycles?
btw, if you're going to integrate this into your VDC module then i'd still be up for that... let me know cause i have a carPC project I can use this other relay for instead...
good point on the mechanical relay - didn't know it was using a mechanical one actually. I will add an indicator LED so that I can easily tell if it's working (if it doesn't have one).
or maybe i'll know cause the clicking will stop! actually i figure I press the brake maybe 10-20 times a day (gotta like living in NC!) at most. that's what 5000 days or about 12+ years worth of use if it lasts for 100k cycles?
btw, if you're going to integrate this into your VDC module then i'd still be up for that... let me know cause i have a carPC project I can use this other relay for instead...
Last edited by rcdash; 03-15-2007 at 07:51 PM.
04-01-2007, 10:45 AM
#91
No boost here yet... But would this stop the bogging that I get when I brake torque launch my 5AT? When I stand on the brake and pree the gas the car wont launch hard at all. I can feel the power come back strong maybe a second after I let off the brake when launching. I think the ECU is closing the throttle becasue of the brake and gas being pressed at the same time. I also cant do good burd outs 
04-01-2007, 11:38 AM
#93
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Originally Posted by KPierson
On the highway today I played around with the brake and the gas and found that if I press the brake I can not rev higher then the current RPM.
04-02-2007, 06:27 AM
#94
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Originally Posted by phunk
silver nismo, yes it will solve the problem as long as your not pressing the brake peddle while trying to give it gas. the line lock allows you to let off the brake while during the burnout.
04-02-2007, 07:31 AM
#95
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Originally Posted by Dirty Dave
Was this with the unit installed that was talked about earlier in this thread ? And did it build any boost ?
I made a comment earlier in the thread about not knowing if my G35 did the same thing as the 350Z. It does, in fact, do the same thing. This makes it a perfect canidate to be the test mule!
04-02-2007, 03:14 PM
#98
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Originally Posted by KPierson
Yes, there is interest, but I prefer to do initial testing on my own car. Once I get that done, we can move forward with a field beta test.
.
04-07-2007, 09:21 PM
#99
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Spring may be on the way, but there is snow on the ground here in Ohio.
I was planning on installing it today, but my garage was way too cold. I barely got my fuel pressure sending unit installed. I couldn't find the motivation to install this module as I knew I wouldn't even be able to test it.
It's supposed to warm up this week, so hopefully I'll get it in by the weekend. I also have some new spark plugs that are supposed to be here tomorrow. Should be a busy week.
I was planning on installing it today, but my garage was way too cold. I barely got my fuel pressure sending unit installed. I couldn't find the motivation to install this module as I knew I wouldn't even be able to test it.
It's supposed to warm up this week, so hopefully I'll get it in by the weekend. I also have some new spark plugs that are supposed to be here tomorrow. Should be a busy week.
