UTEC controlling BOOST! Finally!
So after a while playing around, we finally got the UTEC to map and control boost! No more Boost expensive boost controllers, Just ad a $90 BCS to your existing UTEC and map your boost. This enables you to have a low boost and high boost setting independantly tuned for the specific boost levels and ocane ratings I want. No more switching boost maps on a $500+ EBC such as a Profec E01, or HKS unit and hoping your A/F and timing are still within specs to your original tune.Now you can map out your boost SPECIFICALLY towards that map you have stored and then map a completely different map with higher or lower boost levels tailored to that specific A/F and timing settings. Running low boost 93 octane map on the street and go to the track and dump in some 100+ octane, simply flip the map switch to the map you have stored for the 100+ octane and your running your high boost/octane map which will control your boost and A/F and timing!..

MAKE SURE you TRIPLE check all of your vacume lines going to and from the Actuators, and use a PRE-Throttle body BOOST reference line on the FORGED actuators or you WILL tear the diaphragms in them!!In the Internal WG actuator set up, make sure the spare port on the BCS is vented to atmosphere and unobstructed!!

To hook up the BCS to the UTEC you will need to move the RED wire in the MOLEX plud to the #2 pin position as pictured above. To do this you will need a set of Terminal tools, you can purchase at Radio Shack. Once this is moved over, run that line to the GROUND of the BCS.The other two lines on the BCS get a 12V power source. The UTEC is a NEGATIVE trigger to the BCS. When begining to map, it is crucial you remember the UTEC BOOST CONTROL is a 2 dimensional axis based on RPM VS TPS position, NOT LOAD like the Timing and AF.Also be sure to start with smaller values at first like 5-10% duty cycle in open loop, when in open loop the values are 0-100% DUTY CYCLE of the BCS. When in closed loop the values will be from 0-500 and have no actual value.
MAKE SURE you TRIPLE check all of your vacume lines going to and from the Actuators, and use a PRE-Throttle body BOOST reference line on the FORGED actuators or you WILL tear the diaphragms in them!!In the Internal WG actuator set up, make sure the spare port on the BCS is vented to atmosphere and unobstructed!!
To hook up the BCS to the UTEC you will need to move the RED wire in the MOLEX plud to the #2 pin position as pictured above. To do this you will need a set of Terminal tools, you can purchase at Radio Shack. Once this is moved over, run that line to the GROUND of the BCS.The other two lines on the BCS get a 12V power source. The UTEC is a NEGATIVE trigger to the BCS. When begining to map, it is crucial you remember the UTEC BOOST CONTROL is a 2 dimensional axis based on RPM VS TPS position, NOT LOAD like the Timing and AF.Also be sure to start with smaller values at first like 5-10% duty cycle in open loop, when in open loop the values are 0-100% DUTY CYCLE of the BCS. When in closed loop the values will be from 0-500 and have no actual value.
Last edited by Julian@MRC; Dec 3, 2006 at 03:20 PM.
OK, the BCS from TX has 3 wires out of it, a red a blue and a black. Obviously the red is 12V the black is Ground and the blue is the trigger used for their Dtec BC. On the UTEC it works off a Negative trigger, therefore the blut and the red, must be powered to a 12v source. The ground goes to pin #2 of the MOLEX plug on the rear of the UTEC. For now we mapped boost in OPEN loop which does not require feedback from the MAP sensor. You can however map boost in Closed loop and utilize feedback from the actual MAP sesnor to have a TARGET boost level.
In low boost I was able to build 10-11 psi and in high boost I made 14.5-16 psi towards redline. The previouse versions of Software do not work properly and you will NEED to upload UTEC software V 2.8 for this feature to work. Any questions feel free to ask.
Once again, another break through from the premier UTEC tuners in the US.
In low boost I was able to build 10-11 psi and in high boost I made 14.5-16 psi towards redline. The previouse versions of Software do not work properly and you will NEED to upload UTEC software V 2.8 for this feature to work. Any questions feel free to ask.
Once again, another break through from the premier UTEC tuners in the US.
This is the diagram that TurboXS sent us a while back. With the 2.8 firmware release, they told us boost control would now work. Thanks for testing it out for everyone, because we spent 4 hours trying with the old firmware with zero results.
Nice work.
Nice work.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
This is the diagram that TurboXS sent us a while back. With the 2.8 firmware release, they told us boost control would now work. Thanks for testing it out for everyone, because we spent 4 hours trying with the old firmware with zero results.
Nice work.
Nice work.
Originally Posted by thawk408
Does this hold boost as well as an HKS EVC or Blitz SBC and prevent spiking?
Last edited by Julian@MRC; Dec 3, 2006 at 03:13 PM.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
It will do whatever you MAP it to do, just like those units. A boost controller will control boost as well as the person tuning it "TUNES" it to control boost. The difference here, is you save about $600 you would spend on a seperate EBC, and you can make the entire map tailored specifically to your boost levels as well. During testing I was able to build 14.5-15 psi and then ramp it up to 16-16.5 from 6000 to redline to see if it was doing what I was telling it to..I was also able to increase and decrease spool time by playing with the "wastegate closed below" feature and the "boost ramp" settings in the UTECs parameters. Keep in mind the BCS I am using is the same one from Turbo XS's top of the line DTEC boost controller.
Originally Posted by tig488
is this similar to how the unichip does?
so you got your wastegates fixed?
great work.
so you got your wastegates fixed?
great work.
So if you have the gm solenoid hooked up you need to have the ground connected to pin #2? Then a 12v source to the red wire. I have a aps tt kit with forge acutators they are tapped off the plenum. The vacume lines have to be moved to the nipple where the solenoid goes to before the throttle body?
Originally Posted by captj3
So if you have the gm solenoid hooked up you need to have the ground connected to pin #2? Then a 12v source to the red wire. I have a aps tt kit with forge acutators they are tapped off the plenum. The vacume lines have to be moved to the nipple where the solenoid goes to before the throttle body?
Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
the spare soleniod worked on version 2.3 btw.....
glad finally they have the boost control working
glad finally they have the boost control working

Why would they fix it if it werent broken?
Good news, but still annoying, having recently ditched the UTEC solenoid due to it not working!
Not sure what to do now, stick with the blitz unit, or get rid and fit the map switch and boost solenoild that I previously bought.
Well done for finally proving it works!
Not sure what to do now, stick with the blitz unit, or get rid and fit the map switch and boost solenoild that I previously bought.
Well done for finally proving it works!
mine worked perfectly on two different nitrous applications on two different utecs in my car. as long as it is wired correctly, have had no issues with it.
i am talking about the spare solenoid, not anything to do with the boost solenoid
time to get the TXS solenoid and test this out!!! would be much better than using the EBC...
i am talking about the spare solenoid, not anything to do with the boost solenoid
time to get the TXS solenoid and test this out!!! would be much better than using the EBC...
Last edited by Audible Mayhem; Dec 4, 2006 at 03:30 AM.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
Yup, I spent about 20 hours with the old firmware, and was Jermaine's Test mule for many things thus far. It got frustrating to say the least..We also have been able to control the spare solenode on and off at RPM's for N20,Methenol injection,and any device you would want to turn on and off at specific RPMs and TPS sites.
good job, thanks for sharing....so on your aps setup, what color/ratinf wastegate springs did you go with? I have a set of the yellows (that cam with my setup) and a set of red (18-22psi i believe)...i'd love to be able to run 12-14 psi low boost and have a 18psi high boost...please share!!!!
-TODD



