Blown Engine Stage II SC
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
man, if this resolves with new plugs...great, but not to be the negative one, but if there is a chunk missing from the piston, likely that piston will fail soon..do a compression test and see where you are at...
metal could have definately shot out the exhaust and is long gone, or bounced around in the intake for a while (less likely)...highly doubt that it melted, temps shouldnt be that hot
it would be great to have this motor as an exchangeable/rebuildable core vs a worthless paperweight!
keep us posted, very curious to see how this turns out, rooting for your team!
-TODD
oh, BTW, shortblock quote:
(our longblocks present even a better savings)
Pistons – Arias Extreme Duty pistons 9:1 CR
Rods- Eagle
ARP main studs
main bearings
rod bearings
thrust washers
machine block- bore and hone (with use of torque plates)
balancing
polish crank
redeck block-(to ensure proper mating surface for heads)
clean parts- prep before assembly- clean oil channels, outer surface, etc.
“rev up” oil pump- 18% more efficient than the standard oil pump
motor assembly
Introductory price: $3450
+$1500 core charge (refunded when we receive your motor)
A few ways that we are different than some of the competition:
-we include ARP studs in our engine pricing (head studs with longblocks)
-we use Arias Extreme Duty pistons, good for extremely high power levels
-Our longblock package will come fully timed with front and rear timing covers installed. *(will save you time and money when swapping motors), simply pull off a few sensors and this one will be ready to drop in.
I’ll be happy to price out additional upgrades, let me know what you would like. We can omit certain upgrades to lower the costs and the price.
Call me with any questions: 505-480-1923 Todd Pickman, BuiltZMotors.com
metal could have definately shot out the exhaust and is long gone, or bounced around in the intake for a while (less likely)...highly doubt that it melted, temps shouldnt be that hot
it would be great to have this motor as an exchangeable/rebuildable core vs a worthless paperweight!
keep us posted, very curious to see how this turns out, rooting for your team!
-TODD
oh, BTW, shortblock quote:
(our longblocks present even a better savings)
Pistons – Arias Extreme Duty pistons 9:1 CR
Rods- Eagle
ARP main studs
main bearings
rod bearings
thrust washers
machine block- bore and hone (with use of torque plates)
balancing
polish crank
redeck block-(to ensure proper mating surface for heads)
clean parts- prep before assembly- clean oil channels, outer surface, etc.
“rev up” oil pump- 18% more efficient than the standard oil pump
motor assembly
Introductory price: $3450
+$1500 core charge (refunded when we receive your motor)
A few ways that we are different than some of the competition:
-we include ARP studs in our engine pricing (head studs with longblocks)
-we use Arias Extreme Duty pistons, good for extremely high power levels
-Our longblock package will come fully timed with front and rear timing covers installed. *(will save you time and money when swapping motors), simply pull off a few sensors and this one will be ready to drop in.
I’ll be happy to price out additional upgrades, let me know what you would like. We can omit certain upgrades to lower the costs and the price.
Call me with any questions: 505-480-1923 Todd Pickman, BuiltZMotors.com
Todd, tried calling you. I noticed you tried calling back. I'm not sure what I need but I am definitely interested. PM me so that we can discuss.
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by dutchboy
Does anyone have a definite # as to what the compression test #'s should be?
Originally Posted by username
Yeah, I thought it was low also, but the only thing that I can think that might be causing the low #'s is either, the whole engine is shot OR the supercharger being unhooked and still sitting on top of the engine is preventing enough air to be sucked into the combustion chamber... Do you think that I would be safe in hooking up the belts to the SC so that it turns when I do the compression test? I just wonder if that is an issue with those low #'s?
Does anyone have a definite # as to what the compression test #'s should be?
Does anyone have a definite # as to what the compression test #'s should be?
if you have "0" in one cylinder, chances are that piston is broken, I would be very weary of turning the motor over other than by hand with a wrench to obtain TDC for a leakdown
call me in 1.5 hours and we'll talk
TODD
Check this link, it may be of some use. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/252588728.html
Last edited by fklentz; Dec 27, 2006 at 03:15 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: Louisville, KY
Originally Posted by fklentz
Check this link, it may be of some use. http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/pts/252588728.html
Thanks. :-)
Last edited by username; Dec 27, 2006 at 04:52 PM.
Here's a thread of another Stillen kit doing a compression check. https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ht=compression
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From: Louisville, KY
Thanks. My compression is reall off then. I'm 99% sure that I will be using Todd w/ builtzmotors for my rebuild.
Todd, I know that the z and g have the same motor, but I don't know if it is important for you to know that I have a G sedan and not a Z.
Thanks.
Todd, I know that the z and g have the same motor, but I don't know if it is important for you to know that I have a G sedan and not a Z.
Thanks.
Overall, the Stillen kit still seems to be one of the most reliable out there. You don't hear of this happening very often. I'll be anxiously waiting to find out the true cause of your problems...
Originally Posted by username
Thanks. My compression is reall off then. I'm 99% sure that I will be using Todd w/ builtzmotors for my rebuild.
Todd, I know that the z and g have the same motor, but I don't know if it is important for you to know that I have a G sedan and not a Z.
Thanks.
Todd, I know that the z and g have the same motor, but I don't know if it is important for you to know that I have a G sedan and not a Z.
Thanks.
engine is the same, no worries
Wow FI is really starting to scare me again, sounds like you almost have to go built motor up front, or at least have the extra cash on standby to do a rebuild(if your lucky) on a moments notice.
If you look at the threads post towards the later part of this year blown motors have gone down. Tuners know what to look for now with this motor and were seeing less and less.
But yes having the extra cash just in case is always a must!
But yes having the extra cash just in case is always a must!
Originally Posted by G352NV
If you look at the threads post towards the later part of this year blown motors have gone down. Tuners know what to look for now with this motor and were seeing less and less.
But yes having the extra cash just in case is always a must!
But yes having the extra cash just in case is always a must!
man this sucks to hear man.i would be willing to bet that either the 7th injector went bad or the fmu controlling it screwed up.cause by looking at those plugs you were running real lean.



