Need all the feedback I can get (good and bad) before I lay down my cash for my build. After to many miles on track with the stock motor and APS TT, the motor finally gave, so now I can build a true motor for the track (road coarses)

Here is what I am looking for:

- 8000 to 8,500 red line
- 500 to 550 rwhp
- Reliablity (since this is my main goal, I am open on my budget right now)
- Keep the APS TT set up

From my search, I have come up with:

- Cosworth Short block low compression
- Cosworth CNC ported big valve cylinder heads
- HKS Metal Gasket
- ARP L19's
- Cosworth quoted that this set up can handle 10,500 rpm (yet I don't think the tranny can handle it)
- APS true dual 3" exhaust

(yes this is a Cosworth build, yet they are the only company I can find that build VQ35 that have experience building race engines that win races)

I already own and plan on reusing:
- Test pipes
- APS TT
- Koyo Radiator
- Setrab Oil Cooler (the oil filter is mounted before it so it saved the cooler from getting any metal into it.)
- Remote oil filter (much larger area 3x, 8 micro, no pressure relief bypass)
- Accusump (oil filter also saved this)
- Motodyne Plemun Spacer (need to keep the tower strut bar)

Now - what I haven't figures out yet is:
- What cam (JWT C2?)
- Is it possible to reduce the water pump speed by 20%? The pump tends to cavitate at the higher rpm range.

Before I get a million offers to do my build - I am very loyal to the shop that has alway done good work for me in the past, so they will be doing the build and tune.

I look forward to see if you really think this will achieve my goals. Thanks!

 

sounds good to me. would love to see a fully built Cosworth VQ tearing it up.

 

There is no plenum/intake manifold or cams on the market-from what Ive seen that will make power near 8000rpm, especially 8500rpm's. Your asking for advice on something nobody has done sucessfully yet.

 

Alberto,
I agree with you that the power levels will drop off at those higher RPM's. I was trying to design the internals to take those RPM's, I will not run the engine up that high.

Thanks

 

my car holds power to 8500 but doesnt make any, its very possible and my car feels very stable. thats all with stock plenum and stock headers, i thnk i will see a dramatic change with the addition of those two things.


some tight valve springs and good rods and 8500 isnt an issue at all...

 

I had the same idea as you with all the cosworth internals, the pistons are not great FI pistons.


My engine had all sorts of issues but even when it got to sharif he advised me in my rebuild not to use the cosworth pistons again.

 

For cams the C2s or possibly the GTM cams would be my choice. Although there are some decent Tomei units out there. In regards to water pump speed, would it possible or would you be willing to ditch the factory water pump. Granted because its an internal pump you can't ditch the entire assembly but you could or at least should be able to remove the pump internals and run an external electric pump which you could control the pump speed on...

 

I'm VERY surprised that cosworth bearings aren't on the list.


Edit: Errrrr, nevermind. I would assume the cosworth short block comes with them.

 

At 8000rpms looking inot oil supply? I mean our stock oil pump may not handle that RPM not sure just a quess, looking into the a rev-up oil pump limits. Also take I ride in an RSX do you really want to rev that high it kinda pisses me off.

 

Clemlover15- I agree with you on the oil pump, I will be planning on that for my build

Danisr1 - what was the root cause of your failure?

MIAPLAYA - Good idea on the electric water pump, I will think about it.

 

definately use a rev up oil pump to deliver slightly higher oil pressure...we have had fantastic results with the arias ED pistons, no failures to date, as far as I've heard...

8500rpm is going to be a stretch, unless you can control the variable valve timing (which you cannot), going much higher than 7000rpm serves no purpose, but putting tremendous unecessary stress on the rotating assembly.

make sure you run some 1/2" ARP head studs, especially for the abuse of tracking a car- high coolant temps+ high cylinder pressure= PRONE to cylinder head lift.

 

Since when? Danzio has now set up 3 Haltechs controlling the variable cam timing on the intake side. No the exhaust side hasn't been done yet to my knowledge but the intake side has for quite some time...

 

guess I'm just out of the loop then, let's see some dynos on these setups, would be cool to compare and see how this has helped the power up top..do you have access to the dyno charts?

 

I don't think he posted any but talking to him at SEMA he mentioned gains of up to 22 WHP with only changing the cam timing. Here's a link to one of the motors: http://danzioperformance.com/customer_cars_16.asp

 

I've always wondered how much more power the standard ARP head studs would be able to hold if they were re-torqued after one heat cycle like they're supposed to be. I'm not convinced they're crap and can't hold anything above 500 WHP like i've read around here.

 

Why spend a dozen hours of labor to retrq, when you can just use the better studs from the get-go.

FYI, we recently had the displeasure of doing a retrq on a customer's 12mm studs. They were all tight, after several heat cycles.

 

Head studs trqed without moly lube (insufficient clamping force on the heads)
Excessive sealant blocking 50-70% of main cooling galleys on the front of the block. Sealant use improperly, instead of o-rings...more blockage.

All these factors caused the engine to overheat.

Basically, this was a badly assembled engine, in every respect. Regardless, the pistons should have help up under these conditions...1000 easy street miles....but they didnt.

 

you didnt have to rub it in.
the op pm'ed me on the cosworth pistons and i tried to explain maybe you can explain it better, thanks sharif.

 

Well, your car is back up and running.....so all is good NOW.

 

yup...I PM'ed him too.