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Old May 9, 2007 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
my stock clutch and 'stock PE TT' held up fine- (i never drag raced, but i did do a couple drift events with clutch kicks)..

good luck. cant wait to see picts of it installed...
Good to know. I can't wait either. I've gotten no new pics and I'm very, very excited (just typing this my pulse is racing....so close!!).


Nick informed me Monday that I will have to season my clutch with approx 430 traffic miles before I can do a tune. The clutch requires a break-in period so I will hold off on the tune.

Good thing is that this kit is designed to selF-tune at 5psi so I can run it at that until I can get to a shop then Nick will tune it for 7 or 8 psi.
Now with my driving habits, I can do 430 miles easy, I'll just drive her everyday, everywhere! I asked him would the trip up to ZDAYZ count and he said no, I needed stop-and-go traffic.



I get off work at 7a Sunday and JC will drive us to Winter Haven for the pick-up. Takes 3hrs.







Now to pick an exhaust...I have a 2.5, will need a 3.0.....Suggestions??

Last edited by shezzzhot; May 9, 2007 at 04:52 PM.
Old May 9, 2007 | 04:59 PM
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aam3'' or if u want the greddy evo tt its a 2&3/4'' piping
Old May 9, 2007 | 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by idrmofs7
aam3'' or if u want the greddy evo tt its a 2&3/4'' piping

What's aam? The Greddy I've entertained, it's a $$$ issue now. Penny's are pinched to NILL! LOL
Old May 9, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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Wanna make some extra cash?
Old May 9, 2007 | 09:24 PM
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Uggghhhh Pam a 2.5" exhaust will more than suffice.

Do you have a Single instead?
Old May 10, 2007 | 01:45 AM
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Default Greddy

Pam,

Get the Greddy EVO2 or the APS 2.5, you DO NOT need a 3"exhaust.

Cesar
Old May 10, 2007 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by CESAROTORRES
Pam,

Get the Greddy EVO2 or the APS 2.5, you DO NOT need a 3"exhaust.

Cesar
Listen to this man.
Old May 10, 2007 | 05:56 AM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by Devil Z
Uggghhhh Pam a 2.5" exhaust will more than suffice.

Do you have a Single instead?
My current exhasut is BORLA true dual. It's 2.5 I believe.



Originally Posted by CESAROTORRES
Pam,

Get the Greddy EVO2 or the APS 2.5, you DO NOT need a 3"exhaust.

Cesar

Okay....so my 2.5 BORLA will suffice?
Old May 10, 2007 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by shezzzhot
My current exhasut is BORLA true dual. It's 2.5 I believe.






Okay....so my 2.5 BORLA will suffice?
You will be fine, not the best but not the worst, probably better than the EVO2 anyway, I wouldn't worry about changing exhaust unless you go big power down the road.
Old May 10, 2007 | 01:45 PM
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Default Stay with the Borla if it is a 2.5

Stay with the Borla if it is a 2.5" true dual exhaust, the 3" are for HP (Over 500hp).


Cesar
Old May 10, 2007 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by westpak
You will be fine, not the best but not the worst, probably better than the EVO2 anyway, I wouldn't worry about changing exhaust unless you go big power down the road.
Thanks Gus. Will keep this in mind.


Originally Posted by CESAROTORRES
Stay with the Borla if it is a 2.5" true dual exhaust, the 3" are for HP (Over 500hp).

Cesar

Thanks Cesar. It is a 2.5 true dual from BORLA. I won't go over 500rwhp any time soon.


Only two more days to go!!
Old May 11, 2007 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by shezzzhot

Now to pick an exhaust...I have a 2.5, will need a 3.0.....Suggestions??
[/SIZE]
the cats are the limiting factor for peak boost potential.

if you want good bottom end torque, stock cats and simple 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust (ypipe) with the stock pe kit is perfectly fine. you do not need a 3" unless you like spending more money than you need to. you should figure out what your end goals are and stick with it-

stock pe tt, stock cats, reflash, and aftermarket ypipe and catback would get you close to 380-400rwhp.. thats pretty much the limit of what i would recommend people to go on teh stock block anyways.
Old May 11, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
the cats are the limiting factor for peak boost potential.

if you want good bottom end torque, stock cats and simple 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust (ypipe) with the stock pe kit is perfectly fine. you do not need a 3" unless you like spending more money than you need to. you should figure out what your end goals are and stick with it-

stock pe tt, stock cats, reflash, and aftermarket ypipe and catback would get you close to 380-400rwhp.. thats pretty much the limit of what i would recommend people to go on teh stock block anyways.
I AGREE with Chebosto!!!!!!!!!!!! +100000000000000000

Cesar
Old May 11, 2007 | 10:19 AM
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^^

hows your build up?
Old May 11, 2007 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
^^

hows your build up?
Still in boxes at my house. I am waiting for my ARC exhaust.

Cesar
Old May 11, 2007 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by shezzzhot
Good to know. I can't wait either. I've gotten no new pics and I'm very, very excited (just typing this my pulse is racing....so close!!).


Nick informed me Monday that I will have to season my clutch with approx 430 traffic miles before I can do a tune. The clutch requires a break-in period so I will hold off on the tune.

Good thing is that this kit is designed to selF-tune at 5psi so I can run it at that until I can get to a shop then Nick will tune it for 7 or 8 psi.
Now with my driving habits, I can do 430 miles easy, I'll just drive her everyday, everywhere! I asked him would the trip up to ZDAYZ count and he said no, I needed stop-and-go traffic.



I get off work at 7a Sunday and JC will drive us to Winter Haven for the pick-up. Takes 3hrs.







Now to pick an exhaust...I have a 2.5, will need a 3.0.....Suggestions??

Say What!

Since when do you have to season a clutch to tune your car?? Driving a FI car with no tune is a big no go!

Exhaust? if your hard up for cash, go with the APS 3.5 down pipes they sound awesome. I have a AAM 3" exhaust for sale $900 if your interested. Sorry to break your guys heart but I know of no one running faster than a 119mph trap with a PE TT, and thats with 400Rwhp at 11PSI on a rev up. These turbos are great but they suck as far as efficiency. Greddy guys are boosting less to make the same HP. Nevertheless PE turbos rock! Just go out there and have fun, but this breaking the clutch in before you can get a tune is BS IMO.
Old May 11, 2007 | 03:35 PM
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i was thinking we could keep the Borla and just open her up with some Test Pipes.

Dont want anything crazy loud, but def want it to be noticeable. As for the clutch thing idk, ive never heard about any of this before so i was like wtf.

But what do i know.

Last edited by Zilvia; May 11, 2007 at 03:38 PM.
Old May 11, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by Chebosto
the cats are the limiting factor for peak boost potential.

if you want good bottom end torque, stock cats and simple 2.25 or 2.5" exhaust (ypipe) with the stock pe kit is perfectly fine. you do not need a 3" unless you like spending more money than you need to. you should figure out what your end goals are and stick with it-

stock pe tt, stock cats, reflash, and aftermarket ypipe and catback would get you close to 380-400rwhp.. thats pretty much the limit of what i would recommend people to go on teh stock block anyways.

Fantastic! Thanks I really appreciate your advice, everyone's advice!


I'll keep this in mind as I plan my TT future.
Old May 11, 2007 | 04:10 PM
  #99  
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Originally Posted by eagletanggreen
Say What!

Since when do you have to season a clutch to tune your car?? Driving a FI car with no tune is a big no go!

Exhaust? if your hard up for cash, go with the APS 3.5 down pipes they sound awesome. I have a AAM 3" exhaust for sale $900 if your interested. Sorry to break your guys heart but I know of no one running faster than a 119mph trap with a PE TT, and thats with 400Rwhp at 11PSI on a rev up. These turbos are great but they suck as far as efficiency. Greddy guys are boosting less to make the same HP. Nevertheless PE turbos rock! Just go out there and have fun, but this breaking the clutch in before you can get a tune is BS IMO.

All I can say is that as I do my research online and look on Google for "clutch break in period" I see a lot of info on a 400-500mile period of stop and go driving BEFORE a load can be placed on the clucth:


DO CENTERFORCE CLUTCHES REQUIRE A BREAK IN PERIOD?

"Yes. It Is Recommended To Properly Seat In The New Pressure Plate &Amp; Disc Assembly To Assure Good Clutch Performance. Centerforce Recommends 450-500 Miles Of In Town Stop And Go Type Of Easy Driving Before Applying Full Power. If Your Driving Consists Of Mainly Highway Type Use, The Break In Period Should Be Longer Than The 450-500 Miles. If The Break In Period Is Not Properly Followed, Clutch Life And Performance Can Be Sacrificed."


http://www.centerforce.com/faqs.tpl


"...After proper break in, the Spec Stage 1 feels like a new oem clutch so the driver will be comfortable with the nature and feel of this clutch..."


http://www.moforacing.com/specclutch.php


"...To achieve this combination, we went with a SPEC Stage I clutch (SPEC is a rather forced acronym for "Star Performance Engineered Clutches").

(Bottom of the page)

...It's hard to tell the difference with the clutch since we haven't had a chance to race it yet. It requires a 400 to 500 mile break-in period with lots of city (stop and go) driving before we're allowed to shift under high load/rpm. We're a couple hundred miles into the break-in period, so we're getting there..."


http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/clutch.html



I'm sure Sharif can chime in on this....
Old May 11, 2007 | 04:12 PM
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As for the clutch it is true you want to break it in with some 500 miles or so of stop and go traffic before you romp on it but that is for hard launches or shifts, you can still do at least a decent tune on a new clutch, by shifting it into gear easily and they just acelerating for the pull.



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