kilogram

iTrader: (1)

There's always this option: https://my350z.com/forum/tuning/5921...ing-uprev.html

This extends the MAF curve for about $0.40 using uprev. Should be good for 500whp+, depending on how much he decides to attenuate the signal. The stock MAF is perfectly capable of reading big airflow, it's the ECU that's limited to 5.1v input. This squeezes more of the MAF curve into that voltage range.

I don't know what the upper limit is on the Hitachi sensor, but it's well known in domestic circles that it reads airflow to at least 6V. Maybe someday my curiosity will get the better of me and I'll hook a leafblower up to it

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

This has been argued with me, so I seek full clarification.
Which one is the dipstick? The one with the Allen key in it, or the lower one?>


Thanks Gents!!!

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

this is really interesting stuff, but for all that trouble, why wouldn't you just put the MAFS in a 3.5" pipe? Done.

Staisman

iTrader: (13)

Lower one, should be.

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

The lower one. Its the only one that will have a dipstick looking thing attached to it when you unscrew it from the blower.

kilogram

iTrader: (1)

It's surprisingly little trouble. If I had a car that was already completely tuned and I needed more MAF capacity, I'd probably do the tube like you mentioned since compensating for it is very easy and shouldn't mess much with the tune. I'd also use the tube if I were going big boost (>20psi), since I don't know how much that plastic housing can reliably handle

If I were just in the beginning stages of tuning the car, I'd definitely do the resistors since I'd have to tune it anyway. This was one of the easiest things I've done to the car so far.

Guilty1s

iTrader: (12)

I swapped a vq into my 240. My fuel system is pretty simple...

Walbro to fuel filter to fuel rails to AFPR back to tank all on 6an lines.

I have the base fuel pressure set via the AFPR and has no vacuum lines attached cause na vq's run a static fuel pressure... 52psi iirc.

Well when I hook up the Vortech, should I have a have a vacuum line attached to the fpr so it raises fuel pressure with boost?

If so, is it 52psi I set it at with or without the vacuum line connected at idle?

lethal3

iTrader: (1)

I just had installed a used vortech kit. 350z 2005 vq35de

On high rpm everything seems to be working fine, the boost holds and car moves strong.

The problem is that when driving slow and in low rpm car bogs heavily under full throttle from 2000-3800rpm.
Seems to run way way rich in fuel and smokes black.
This happens immediatly afther the bov closes on low rpm.

Is there a way to program the vortech boost computer manually, or are there revised maps available?

The car is in iceland. it does not show a CEL.


sidenote:
I have researched this by my extent on google and on the forum, and there are no answers other than i need a tune.
but should a tune be necessary to get the car to a useable state for the standard 3.33 pulley kit on a standard 350z.
Osiris is very expensive when it would be in my hands. about 1400$ because of crazy import laws.

350z006

iTrader: (79)

If your kit has the split second box, then your you can tune that...you may want to PM OldManZ350, he's very familair with the SS Box...

350Z_Al

Can the NPT side tap from this oil filter sandwich plate (for an oil cooler) be used to supply oil to the vortech SC?

http://www.mishimoto.com/oil-sandwic...20-silver.html

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

of course

lethal3

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. talked to OldManZ350 and got to know that the split second box is programmable, got the car to a tuner and we fixed the problem.
seems that the EU ecu and the USA ecu are different in fuel mapping so my
EU z33 got flooded with fuel on wot at 1-4psi.

lethal3

iTrader: (1)

I have the V2, and it runs insanely hot. is that regular for this supercharger

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

Under normal driving on a Hot day, the SC will be Hot to the Touch.

What is Insanely Hot?

crd00

iTrader: (3)

I am installing the v3 sci kit right now on my 350z but I ran into one issue I need clarification on. I bought my own fuel injectors and fuel pump so i dont have the fmu, my question is, what do I do with the 5/32 hose that hooks up to the bypass valve? It has a locknut, two washers and bolt included with it? Where do I run this?

crd00

iTrader: (3)

This is the only thing i have left to do with the install before i can start the car. Someone must of had the tuner kit to be able to clarify this

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

connect it to an engine vacuum source (at the manifold, tee'd off the evap line, etc.). the BPV needs a vacuum source to tell it whether to stay open or close.

crd00

iTrader: (3)

Will this be a sufficient area to put the hose? Its a nipple with a rubber cover over it that can be removed on the intake manifold.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

That will work.

crd00

iTrader: (3)

The nipple i have a picture of is too small for the hose I have. Theres a small hose about 8 inches long that leaves the front of the plenum on the front left side and goes to the engine cover(down by the spark plugs) to a white nipple. Would this be fine to TEE into?