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Old 01-27-2010, 10:33 AM
  #781  
Infinite1
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Originally Posted by 350Z400rwhp
Is your friend's car a lower compression built block or stock? Sometimes lower compression built motors take a few more turns to start up. My 600cc D-Works sound stock when I start up. If I were you I would go with 600s over the 440s you are planning on using.
He's running on a stock block.

That's a relief to know it sounds stock when starting up. I originally intended on going with 600's but since my power goals are not that high I figured I could get away with the 440's. However, by your last statement I recalled Binder mentioning the duty cylcl of the 440's would be at 85% thus possibly wearing out the injectors faster. And this being my daily driver with a 1hr commute to work every morning I definitely don't want that.

Originally Posted by Binder
Your welcome, Pm me or email me. Give me a day or so to respond because medical school is beating on me and i'm spending quite a bit of time in the lab.

dw 600cc's sound the same on startup if tuned correctly. It won't make the car slow to turn over. Overtight belts or a dying battery are probably the cause. I would same more than likely a battery that needs to be replaced.

if tuned improperly the 600's will idle rough once it's started, but it really won't make the car sound like it's hard to turn over. I think by that you mean like it's chugging and not turning over really well.
Will do! I know what you mean about being busy. I'm a Systems Analyst and I work 7-12am shifts sometimes and being on call constantly.

I believe you're correct with the battery issue. B/c he left his car at my house while I detailed it for him and after not starting it for a day it wouldn't start. Yes, it's like a chugging start. I hear all his gauges make noise and the engine sound like it's gonna stall then starts...(If that made any sense...lol)

By the way you switched to DW 600's as well correct?

Thanks again guys for the help!
Old 01-31-2010, 09:44 PM
  #782  
maXmood
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kit ordered , and i asked the tuner to come over my country to do the tuning. won't cost much on top of me taking the car to him.

he suggested street tuning first before the dyno..

can't wait!!!
Old 02-01-2010, 09:35 AM
  #783  
binder
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Originally Posted by Infinite1
duty cylcl of the 440's would be at 85% thus possibly wearing out the injectors faster.


By the way you switched to DW 600's as well correct?

Thanks again guys for the help!
Mine at WOT near high rpm will peak around 85% and sometimes i have hit a little higher. After my built motor, heads and the works it blew through the 440's very quick. I went from 440's to 800's. 600's will be cutting it close if not a little bit small for my application now so I went with 800's. Haven't done any testing yet on it since I left it home. I'm thinking DC around 60's or at most 70%.
Old 02-02-2010, 07:12 AM
  #784  
catcapt
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Default New Q? re: oil line layout

I have vortech and oil cooler/sandwich plate. I ran a drain line from the blower to the cooler and then from the cooler to the sandwich plate. There is a loop in the blower drain hose as it enters the bottom of the cooler. Will this work?
Old 02-02-2010, 07:40 AM
  #785  
y0shi
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Why not just run the cooler through the sandwich plate and the oil return line to the oil pan?
Old 02-02-2010, 07:59 AM
  #786  
350Z400rwhp
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Originally Posted by catcapt
I have vortech and oil cooler/sandwich plate. I ran a drain line from the blower to the cooler and then from the cooler to the sandwich plate. There is a loop in the blower drain hose as it enters the bottom of the cooler. Will this work?
I would stick to either returning it to an oil pan spacer or drill and run into the upper oil pan as recommended in the Vortech instructions. Just use your sandwich plate and oil cooler and run back into you oil pan. The oil will still be cooled just the same either way so stick with the normal way and you will have less to worry about.
Old 02-02-2010, 10:14 AM
  #787  
binder
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I would not put a cooler between the blower drain and the oil pan. I would put it on the pressure side from the sandwich plate to the blower feed.

if you put it on the drain then oil will get backed up since it's only gravity fed.
Old 02-02-2010, 06:06 PM
  #788  
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thanx
Old 02-03-2010, 06:24 PM
  #789  
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hey i got my vortech v2 supercharger waiting to get installed next week.. and get dynotuned at rt tuning next thursday. i have a 03 350z 6mt. with full bolt on and cams. and i wanted to get a ballpark figure where ill be at in terms of power if i go and tune with the stock pulley. or should i go with the 3.12. its my daily driver and i dont wanna push any limits at all
Old 02-03-2010, 06:31 PM
  #790  
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Originally Posted by whitez33350ztt
hey i got my vortech v2 supercharger waiting to get installed next week.. and get dynotuned at rt tuning next thursday. i have a 03 350z 6mt. with full bolt on and cams. and i wanted to get a ballpark figure where ill be at in terms of power if i go and tune with the stock pulley. or should i go with the 3.12. its my daily driver and i dont wanna push any limits at all
you will eventually want the 3.12 pulley even for everyday driving.....its just a matter of time.....i wouldnt recommend the 2.87 though for your situation...if you read though this thread, youll see what else you might want to get with that pulley...where in jersey? oh you have cams? someone else might want to chime in on that one.

Last edited by akks350z; 02-03-2010 at 06:36 PM.
Old 02-03-2010, 07:55 PM
  #791  
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i live in monmouth county.. i never was in a vortech z. so i dont know what to expect of how the power feels or anything like that. thats y idk if i should do 3.12 or wat i should do. i just dont wanna go beyond any limits of power to really be unreliable. where r u in jersey u should take me for a ride lol
Old 02-03-2010, 09:07 PM
  #792  
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Originally Posted by akks350z
you will eventually want the 3.12 pulley even for everyday driving.....its just a matter of time.....i wouldnt recommend the 2.87 though for your situation...if you read though this thread, youll see what else you might want to get with that pulley...where in jersey? oh you have cams? someone else might want to chime in on that one.
elaborate why you don't recommend 2.87 for his situation..?
Old 02-04-2010, 05:18 AM
  #793  
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2.87 would be too much and possibly "push" the engine. 3.12 is a very safe pulley to run. There isn't a real way to estimate hp but with a 3.12 pulley the hp is generally lower than 400. Safety is in the tune though. You will want more than the stock pulley though. I assume you have upgraded injectors already.
Old 02-04-2010, 07:12 AM
  #794  
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A 2.87 pulley with all supporting mods is pushing your engine to the peak on stock internals. You are looking at around 430-460whp depending on what supporting mods you are running and who tuned your car. You can get between around 380-410whp on a 3.12. That is about all you will want to run a stock internal engine at.

We are running 444rwhp on our shop G Sedan and it has been running great for quite a while on stock block, however it does have every cooling mod possible. However, the day the engine fails I can't say I will be to surprised. It is much safer to just stick with a 3.12
Old 02-04-2010, 08:45 AM
  #795  
whitez33350ztt
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im gunna go with the 3.12 .. i just donnt wanna go past 400 whp bc i dont wana be pushing the limit. i have an important thing to ask.. my buddy gave me a walbro 255 fuel pump from his sti brand new. its the same part number on the pump.. do i need an install kit/? if i dont where do i have to go to get a new fuel filter to fit the pump... and if i need anything else? thanks
Old 02-04-2010, 08:49 AM
  #796  
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Originally Posted by whitez33350ztt
i have an important thing to ask.. my buddy gave me a walbro 255 fuel pump from his sti brand new. its the same part number on the pump.. do i need an install kit/? if i dont where do i have to go to get a new fuel filter to fit the pump... and if i need anything else? thanks
it's the same. you do'nt need any special kit. Go to CJM's website and read their installation and modification instructions for the walbro. That will guide you through very easily.

The only thing you would want to purchase is another fuel tank oring. If you get gas on the oring when taking out the fuel pump it will swell and not fit back in. Best to have one on hand before just in case. Make sure you have very low fuel also....1/4 tank. Otherwise fuel will spill everywhere.
Old 02-04-2010, 08:52 AM
  #797  
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Originally Posted by whitez33350ztt
im gunna go with the 3.12 .. i just donnt wanna go past 400 whp bc i dont wana be pushing the limit. i have an important thing to ask.. my buddy gave me a walbro 255 fuel pump from his sti brand new. its the same part number on the pump.. do i need an install kit/? if i dont where do i have to go to get a new fuel filter to fit the pump... and if i need anything else? thanks
It will work, same part # (gss342) You will want to put a new filter on it though and there is not a install kit for the 350Z.
Old 02-04-2010, 11:02 AM
  #798  
whitez33350ztt
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ok where can i get the fuel filter. oem nissan ? will fit and where do i get the oring binder?
Old 02-04-2010, 12:23 PM
  #799  
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Originally Posted by whitez33350ztt
ok where can i get the fuel filter. oem nissan ? will fit and where do i get the oring binder?
i'm not sure what he's calling a fuel filter. maybe the large fuel "screen"? that's the closest thing to a fuel filter we have but it's not a true filter since the pore size is quite large.

The o-ring can be had at the dealership. I think i ordered mine from partstrain.com since the local dealership workers are idiots here and ordered me the wrong one then refused to take it back when i noticed it wasn't the correct one. They also sell a Bosch o-ring at Napa for it (or pretty much anywhere that is a bosch dealer).
Old 02-04-2010, 04:57 PM
  #800  
whitez33350ztt
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yea so i go to napa and say i need a bosch o-ring? wat do i exactly say when i go to napa bc i wouldnt know how to describe it


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