can someone answer some of these questions for me.

currently i only have a jwt clutch/flywheel on my car. everything else is stock.

if i bought this right there, https://my350z.com/forum/turbos-nitr...on-rev-up.html

what else will i need to make it run?

is anything missing besides the fuel management system?

can i just use uprev osirus and be good with those injectors?

thanks.

 

Yes, it looks like an Uprev tune is all you'll need, particularly if you're sticking with the 3.33 pulley, expect about 340-360 whp...if you're going for more power I suggest a walbro 255, uprev MAF GT and either 3.12 or 2.87 pulley...

 

nwm

 

No need for an upgrade to the MAF but agree with a RFS using your OEM rails... Best for tuning and overall safety.

 

I mean if you want to go anywhere over 380 or 400whp then your going to max out the stock MAF. as far as the fuel return system is is not necessary however it is safer and will save you money in tuning in the long run so that your tuner doesn't have to completely re-do your fuel maps.

 

You will need tuning software, i would recommend UpRev and a fuel pump, i would recommend a walbro 255 depending on your power levels. there is also some other stuff that would be recommended but not completely necessary.

 

Do I really need Wideband gauge, or i can just have Boost and Oil temp ? I like STRI gauges but they don't have Wideband, so if I don't need one I would go with them, otherwise i have to go with Prosport EVO series to keep my gauges all the same.

 

I would say you need one man.

Benefits of air–fuel ratio metering

Determining the condition of the oxygen sensor: A malfunctioning oxygen sensor will result in air–fuel ratios which respond more slowly to changing engine conditions. A damaged or defective sensor may lead to increased fuel consumption and increased pollutant emissions as well as decreased power and throttle response. Reducing emissions: Keeping the air–fuel mixture near the stoichometric ratio of 14.7:1 (for gasoline engines) allows the catalytic converter to operate at maximum efficiency. Fuel economy: An air–fuel mixture leaner than the stoichiometric ratio will result in near optimumfuel mileage, costing less per mile traveled and producing the least amount of CO 2 emissions. However, from the factory, cars are designed to operate at the stoichiometric ratio (rather than as lean as possible while remaining driveable), to maximize the efficiency and life of the catalytic converter. While it may be possible to run smoothly at mixtures leaner than the stoichiometric ratio, manufacturers must focuson emissions and especially catalytic converter life (which must now be 100,000 miles (160,000 km) on new vehicles [citation needed] ) as a higher priorityduetoU.S. EPA regulations. Engine performance: Carefully mapping out air–fuel ratios throughout the range of rpm and manifold pressure will maximize power output in addition to reducing the risk of detonation.

 

realistically you only need a wideband for tuning. once the tune is set, it shouldnt have to be touched.

And unless you have a EMS that can actually automatically adjust your fueling tables based on AFR, its also a moot point. When you are on it, you wont loooking at gauges.

With my vortech I looked more at fuel and oil pressure more than I did AFR.

 

^^^ That actually gives me a little hope.

This whole gauge issue is something I've actually just begun struggling over. I have a 3 gauge pod on the way, but haven't selected any gauges. Personally leaning toward Auto Meter, but I really am out of my depth here.

What I really want is some way to tap into the factory Wideband O2 sensors so I can avoid the whole deal of tapping into my very expensive exhaust system.

I'm kind of lost on this one, really. I don't know if I have any good options. Any input or suggestions you guys have that could point me in the right direction would be more than welcome.

Current thoughts:
- Some kind of AFR configuration that doesn't require tapping or welding...
- Boost
- Oil Temperature

 

the O2 sensors go in the test pipes which shouldnt have been that expensive. Plus you get someone that can weld and it will look exactly like the other bungs.

 

I just found in the Vortech manual, in section 5 recommendation to the gauges:
1. Fuel Pressure Gauge
2. Boost Gauge
3. Ignition Amp/Boost Retard (standard on some kits)

So maybe instead of Wideband better to go with Fuel press gauge, oil temp and boost?

 

Except that I have Motordyne ART Pipes, which are quite expensive and unfortunately preclude that sort of use. It'd be down for that, otherwise.

 

lots of folks (including me) have a bung welded into their ART pipes so they can run a wideband. it really isn't a big deal.

 

+1...not a big deal...

 

Will be doing it to mines too!

 

Talk about peer pressure!

Well, I talked to Richard at UpRev, and he also recommends it - if for no other reason than their ability and ease when it comes to the eventual tuning of my car. I guess I know what I'm doing. Thanks, guys.

 

I ran 460rwhp stock maf

 

it's more like the 350zvortech bible. just what I needed it it took me a whole week to read the 90 pages but I did it. I jut installed a V2 vortech supercharger kit about a month ago and I gotta say I love it!!!! so far this is what I have:
V2 vortech full kit supercharger
kinetix v+intake manifold
stillen full 2.5 cat back exhaust
edge racing resonator test pipes
I'm running the 3.33 pulley but just waiting until I get my 3.12 pulley and I'm gonna go get tune and dyno I'm guessing I'm gonna be pushing around 380whp. now my problem is, since I put the vortech kit my pedal clutch is acting a little weird everytime I launch the car for a few times. the pedal gets stuck right in the middle but it only happens when I drive hard on it. I'm guessing it might be the slave cylinder. any suggestions??

 

Stock clutch?
Is it catching on that "detent" about mid push? Happened to mine awhile back (Texas summer/3hour drive). Seemed to be caused by heat. Threads on here ranged from swap the master cylinder to change the fluid. Problem went away in the cool of the evening. No trouble since. If it persists I would change fluid first since that's just a little cheaper than a master cylinder.