^ yeah, grab the belt with your hand and use your other hand to break the bolt loose. FWIW, I had to do this three weeks ago and did not need an impact wrench. Yes, I'm that diesel

 

Well belt strap didn't work either. Wish I had my impact (none my tools here.) Does this bolt need to be this tight by the way?

 

Eh, i think it's 20ft lbs or so. The deal is when trying to break it loose by holding onto a strap it flexes when you apply force therefore not giving all of your force to the bolt itself. It makes it seem like it's in there tighter than it is.

also, those pulleys get very hot during operation so that bolt goes through heat cycles which can cause it to seize up a little. Put some anti-seize on the threads when you put it back in.

 

Is GTM still looking at your engine? They should be able to take that off for you...

 

Yup! Exactly... Will do with the antifreeze. I mean seize. lol


I pulled off my lower oil pan and found absolutely no little ground up metal bits that one would see with a spun rod bearing. I've spun a rod bearing before and it makes quite a mess. Not in this car.
Also, I put a qt. and a half in, and now after the engine warms up to operating temp the knocking sound virtually disappears. Just like it did when I bought the car though.
I am still going to take it up to Sam@GTM, but since it's just sitting right now I figured i'd make these changes to the belt setup that I wanted.

I just went and got my impact gun.

Binder When you say wrap the cog belt around the cog pulley... You mean until it kinda jams? Or stick something in the cog so it won't turn? or?..

Sorry I just don't want to break anything here. First time taking this off

 

take cog belt off, wrap around only the cog pully you want to stay in place, the tail of the belt goes in your hand. Hand holds the pully in place VIA the cog belt.

 

Gotcha. Just tried, no avail. Even with my impact gun still couldn't get it off.

I even tried my buddy's high power impact wrench, nothing.

Any other ideas?

 

Have you tried using a cheater bar on the wrench?

 

Even if I used a 2ft breaker bar, what am I going to use to hold the pulley? Noway someone can hold this strap wrench while i'm tuggin on a 2 foot breakerbar.

Hmmmmm... I'm running out of options.

The strap wrench and me holding the cog belt method is cushioning the impact gun. If there was some way I could lock up the pulley somehow...

I dunno this is driving me crazy...

 

I just use my pneumatic impact wrench...comes out like a charm.

 

I remember having a difficult time doing this too, but you really have to put some *** into it. I had the strap wrench on the cog pulley and the 14mm wrench on the 3.12 pulley bolt and pushed down on both of them in oposite direction. Get a friend to help. You are using an actual strap wrench and not the cog belt to do this right?

 

Yes Sir. Using an actual strap wrench. Ok, i'll grab a buddy this time. Tried it with my girlfriend, didn't work out.

I can feel a busted up hand comming soon.

 

wait a minute.....

so do you have your serpentine belt off? Put that belt back on and tightne it down realy tight. The friction should hold it stationary enough to blast it with an impact.

a wrench won't work since moving it slow would eventually crank over the engine but an impact with a quick blast should work. 3/8" drive at least.

 

You are brilliant Binder.

It's funny you say, just walkin out to put on my 80 1/8 #060795 to try what you just suggested. Or maybe i'll use my old belt for that job. Don't need to stretch the @#$% of my new belt.

So we are all sure that this water pump lookin pulley does not need to be belted up right?
And all these pulleys should be torqued to aprox 20 ft/lbs?

 

lol, i always left mine on and i never thought about you having it off...duh.

if you are talking about the IDLER pulley then no. it just sits there and spins. Our water pump is controlled internally by the timing chain.

 

Quick question, need a definitive answer.
What size belt for non-revup, old layout, 2.87 with gtm pulley mod?

I have read everything from 92-93.5.

Please help!
Sorry for not searching more, I'm on my iPhone.

 

Whats up fellas.. finally got my car back. Running the 3.12 pulley now and the car still feels good. Not getting into boost as quick as i did before with the 2.87 but it still feels good. #'s are over 400. Happy so far with it. Will post Dynojet pulls soon.

Just in case anyone needs a 2.87 pulley and 92 7/8" belt i have them for sale now.

Gonna post a FS thread soon but wanted to give you guys the first heads up.

PM me if interested.

 

T-Trim install update:

400+RWHP and I am blowing the dipstick out of block....then oil on (new but used OEM motor)....

I guess motor 4 is in order.

Just got a brand new OEM one for a steal....

thank God I put the last one in myself and saved $$$.

I guess 375RWHP until July will have to do. lol

 

something is wrong with your crank vents. Your block should never build that much pressure in it.

 

This is why I am so effing confused... Comp Leak down was good!

I will see about fixing that...any ideas... maybe run some cleaner through the motor...it did sit for about 6 months before I slapped it in there?

Im old school maybe a good 25 min run with some tranny fluid...lol

Motor was an Oil Consumption motor....however not bad at all. I have many friends with OC motors that are boosted. My last motor was venting oil everywhere so my car smelled like oil.... not good with a prego wife riding with and 18 month old in the back. So I took the gamble on swapping this one out (motor was basically free with part swaps). So anyways....

whats the best way to check or clean them....without taking the block back out? LOL