vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
07-13-2010, 10:02 AM
#1381
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You guys have to remember that the reason why the oem stat is 180 is not because that's what they wanted for optimum performance, but for optimum emissions. Going lower will only make things better with no negatives except for emissions ( within reason ). I'd love to get my temp to 160* but don't see how in this car. My temps are usually between 190-200.
07-14-2010, 08:36 AM
#1382
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Someting is wrong iwth that. 2.87 on any kit will not be 8.8lbs. A 2.87 is 12psi on a non rev so it should be at least 10psi on a rev. Matter of fact the revs on here that i've seen put over 10psi on a 2.87.
about the nismo thermostat. like any thermostat it will do ZERO to aid in cooling. all it does is allow the thermostat to open sooner. Once you hit the point of the thermostat being fully open the cooling system will run the same no matter what. No increased cooling, it only opens sooner so it will stay cooler slightly longer but not much. If your car generates enough heat to keep the coolant at 190 (which is usually the case) then a thermostat that opens at 160 or 180 won't have any effect on the cooling of that system since it will be at a temp that is already in a fully opened tstat.
Your car will never run that cool. Mine stays under 200 but over 190 all the time with my pathfinder cooling mod. i have a standard 180* tstat. Putting a 160* in wouldn't lower my operating temps.
about the nismo thermostat. like any thermostat it will do ZERO to aid in cooling. all it does is allow the thermostat to open sooner. Once you hit the point of the thermostat being fully open the cooling system will run the same no matter what. No increased cooling, it only opens sooner so it will stay cooler slightly longer but not much. If your car generates enough heat to keep the coolant at 190 (which is usually the case) then a thermostat that opens at 160 or 180 won't have any effect on the cooling of that system since it will be at a temp that is already in a fully opened tstat.
Your car will never run that cool. Mine stays under 200 but over 190 all the time with my pathfinder cooling mod. i have a standard 180* tstat. Putting a 160* in wouldn't lower my operating temps.
07-14-2010, 01:26 PM
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07-14-2010, 06:06 PM
#1386
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Why did you add an extra one instead of just using the oem location? u can always just put an aftermarket sensor in the oem bung so it's an easy fit.
07-15-2010, 09:11 AM
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I would have used this port if I knew it existed...AAM did the install and said nothing about using it...Agree the temp at this location is close to what I'm reading at the upper hose location. The oem idiot gage is a back up to the actual temp readings...
07-15-2010, 11:48 AM
#1388
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Logging with haltech off that sensor is very accurate. The oem gauge is very heavily "middle weighted" so the needle stays in the middle most of the time and takes huge swings in temp to get a noticable change.
07-22-2010, 07:13 PM
#1389
i'm thinking about upgrading my intercooler for better cooling and to better fill up the opening in my front bumper. I've got my eye on spearco's 5-375 - the specs are below:
- Core Dimension: 3.50'' thick x 7.90'' tall x 28.0'' wide
- Hose Connection – 2.50'' OD
- Good to 500HP
Picture: http://74.208.101.201/pageimages/intercoolers/5-375.jpg
i expect some boost loss, but nothing dramatic. I should be able to keep my bumper brace since the height is the same as the stock IC. am i wrong in these assumptions? i currently max out between 9.5-10.5 psi depending on how far up I rev (usually stop at 6400 rpm). thanks for your help
- Core Dimension: 3.50'' thick x 7.90'' tall x 28.0'' wide
- Hose Connection – 2.50'' OD
- Good to 500HP
Picture: http://74.208.101.201/pageimages/intercoolers/5-375.jpg
i expect some boost loss, but nothing dramatic. I should be able to keep my bumper brace since the height is the same as the stock IC. am i wrong in these assumptions? i currently max out between 9.5-10.5 psi depending on how far up I rev (usually stop at 6400 rpm). thanks for your help
Last edited by - bigc -; 07-22-2010 at 07:14 PM.
07-23-2010, 06:54 AM
#1391
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ya, if you are keepign the brace that is the way to go.
A taller intercooler (longer endcaps on the core) will yield more cooling if you want the best possible but it will sacrifice your crash bar.
That aluminum crash bar is only designed for low impact. It's really not giong to change a 60mph accident outcome so i don't mind running a large intercooler.
A taller intercooler (longer endcaps on the core) will yield more cooling if you want the best possible but it will sacrifice your crash bar.
That aluminum crash bar is only designed for low impact. It's really not giong to change a 60mph accident outcome so i don't mind running a large intercooler.
07-23-2010, 12:26 PM
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ya, if you are keepign the brace that is the way to go.
A taller intercooler (longer endcaps on the core) will yield more cooling if you want the best possible but it will sacrifice your crash bar.
That aluminum crash bar is only designed for low impact. It's really not giong to change a 60mph accident outcome so i don't mind running a large intercooler.
A taller intercooler (longer endcaps on the core) will yield more cooling if you want the best possible but it will sacrifice your crash bar.
That aluminum crash bar is only designed for low impact. It's really not giong to change a 60mph accident outcome so i don't mind running a large intercooler.
07-23-2010, 09:50 PM
#1394
quick question: How do I know if I have blown seals in my SC? I'm noticing oil on the supercharger near the cogged pulley. Some oil on the underside of my hood as well. From what i've gathered the seal is going bad. That would be the rear seal? And would this seal going bad translate to a boost leak as well?
<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/Picture.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/Picture.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Last edited by Synjn; 07-23-2010 at 10:43 PM.
07-24-2010, 06:40 AM
#1395
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I just actually installed my vortech and 3 days later got a misfire cel. I have read a few times that a cel is normal with fi but my question is how bad is it and is normal? The car runs fine and the misfire happen at 875rpm so i believe its during cold-starts. Im running dw 600 cc injectors and the walboro. ANyone else have this issue and can give me some insight?
07-24-2010, 08:48 AM
#1396
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which code exactly? clear the code and then pay attention to when teh code is throw again. Sometimes it's just a random misfire once to throw the code. Could be anything. Tune coudl be off flooding the cylinder or leaning it out.
synj, sounds like a rear seal on there. I've never experienced it so idk for sure, but your theory sounds correct. Oil should definitely not be coming out of that area.
synj, sounds like a rear seal on there. I've never experienced it so idk for sure, but your theory sounds correct. Oil should definitely not be coming out of that area.
07-24-2010, 09:15 AM
#1397
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Here's my situation, I been dealing with this random misfire BS for some time now. Every year doing inspection time I have to jump thru hoops to stay legal. I went to a mechanic and he squared my previous car away, so I decided to allow him to change my plugs and inspect my car as he was gonna look pass the test pipes, height etc. He called me back and I had oil in the #3 spark plug on the driver side. I thought that was weird being that I swore I purchased a oil catch can, so I inquired about the possibility of the O-ring seal going bad. He called around, as well as I and found that if I wanted new seals I would have to buy the whole valve cover from Nissan setting me back $230. I decided not to got that route yet, so when I pick my car up my VDC & Slip lights are both on the moment I boost my AF drops to 10. Kinda lost as to what way to go. Is it as easy to take it back to Forged get the seals & retune, or something more involved that I'm not taking into account?
07-24-2010, 12:49 PM
#1398
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which code exactly? clear the code and then pay attention to when teh code is throw again. Sometimes it's just a random misfire once to throw the code. Could be anything. Tune coudl be off flooding the cylinder or leaning it out.
synj, sounds like a rear seal on there. I've never experienced it so idk for sure, but your theory sounds correct. Oil should definitely not be coming out of that area.
synj, sounds like a rear seal on there. I've never experienced it so idk for sure, but your theory sounds correct. Oil should definitely not be coming out of that area.
I cleared the code and it always pops up right after starting it. But thats it.
07-25-2010, 09:48 AM
#1399
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Here's my situation, I been dealing with this random misfire BS for some time now. Every year doing inspection time I have to jump thru hoops to stay legal. I went to a mechanic and he squared my previous car away, so I decided to allow him to change my plugs and inspect my car as he was gonna look pass the test pipes, height etc. He called me back and I had oil in the #3 spark plug on the driver side. I thought that was weird being that I swore I purchased a oil catch can, so I inquired about the possibility of the O-ring seal going bad. He called around, as well as I and found that if I wanted new seals I would have to buy the whole valve cover from Nissan setting me back $230. I decided not to got that route yet, so when I pick my car up my VDC & Slip lights are both on the moment I boost my AF drops to 10. Kinda lost as to what way to go. Is it as easy to take it back to Forged get the seals & retune, or something more involved that I'm not taking into account?
about the a/f being really rich now, idk. Overly rich like that can cause a misfire which would also throw a code.
like i've stated above, it can be caused by tons of things.
07-26-2010, 07:59 AM
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quick question: How do I know if I have blown seals in my SC? I'm noticing oil on the supercharger near the cogged pulley. Some oil on the underside of my hood as well. From what i've gathered the seal is going bad. That would be the rear seal? And would this seal going bad translate to a boost leak as well?
<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/Picture.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
<a href="http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/?action=view¤t=Picture.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/Synjn/vacume/Picture.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>