Forced Induction Cooling: Upgraded Fan Results..wow
07-19-2007, 12:11 PM
#181
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Gas welding aluminum, or overlap with rivets? I guess anything is possible. 
Give it a try and let us know how it works out.
We made this for local in-house cars. Of course anyone can build their own if they prefer.
Give it a try and let us know how it works out. We made this for local in-house cars. Of course anyone can build their own if they prefer.
07-19-2007, 12:17 PM
#183
Originally Posted by go-fast
sharif this is where it got warmed up ,everybody was playing nice till this snide comment!
a 40 inch brake is only $150 from harbour freight and why would you need a tig welder? gas weld or over lap with rivets would be more than you need ,plus you get a new tool ,think of all the cool stuff you could make all for less than $250
I appologize for my sarcastic remark....I hope no offense was taken.
07-19-2007, 12:33 PM
#187
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
But that was after you posted this...
You made your original point, and was fine, but then you had to keep it going.
I appologize for my sarcastic remark....I hope no offense was taken.
You made your original point, and was fine, but then you had to keep it going.
I appologize for my sarcastic remark....I hope no offense was taken.
sorry if i stepped on your thread ,could have posted my own
07-19-2007, 12:37 PM
#188
Originally Posted by go-fast
just trying to think outside the box ,personally hope you sell a million and only wanted people to consider getting dirty on their own car with a fairly simple project that with patience would come out awsome .something you could point at and say"i made that". sorry if i stepped on your thread ,could have posted my own
sorry if i stepped on your thread ,could have posted my own
07-19-2007, 12:38 PM
#189
Originally Posted by go-fast
sorry if i stepped on your thread ,could have posted my own
07-19-2007, 12:39 PM
#190
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Originally Posted by Alberto
I didnt say it like that. I said if your complaining about a quality fan shroud that costs $250 then you need to find a new hobby, you pay to play, some like to pay 1/2 and get 1/2 the product then they "laugh" at those that pay for good parts.
07-19-2007, 01:25 PM
#192
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
How many of the people complaing about the $250 price of the shroud also have $100 catch cans and $800 Defi BF gauge setups?
edit: I guess I should clarify... by "people" I mean "go fast". lol
edit: I guess I should clarify... by "people" I mean "go fast". lol
07-19-2007, 01:38 PM
#194
Sharif, by chance was any testing done on just the shroud with the regular fans? (sorry if I missed it, did not want to go over the last 2 pages of nonsense)
I think the fact that you saw lower temps at speed points to significant positive benefit from the shroud vs. the fan, unless the operating fans are in some way creating low pressure zones in front of the radiator, inducing airflow through rather than around even at speed...
Where's our rocket scientist? Maybe he'll check in...
I think the fact that you saw lower temps at speed points to significant positive benefit from the shroud vs. the fan, unless the operating fans are in some way creating low pressure zones in front of the radiator, inducing airflow through rather than around even at speed...
Where's our rocket scientist?
Maybe he'll check in...
07-19-2007, 01:56 PM
#198
Originally Posted by booger
any chance of getting that wiring diagram ?
To my eye, it looks like there are two coils in each of the stock fan motors. Looks like there are two positive leads and two ground leads going to each motor (4 wires with colors noted in parentheses). Pin 3 (B) is always hooked to ground. Pin 2 for each motor (L and L/W) go to +12 volts when fan relay 1 is active for low speed operation. For high speed operation both relay 3 (power) and relay 2 (gnd) turn on simultaneously (ECU controlled), which brings Pin 1 for each motor (R and LG) to +12 volts and brings Pin 4 for each motor (Y/R and Y) down to GND to complete the circuit.
Essentially the OEM fan motors look purpose-built to draw current from either 1 or both sources to determine speed. This is not your usual resistor driven (voltage controlled) fan. The motors appear to have 2 coils, each with its own 12v circuit (like 2 motors in one). The most common point of failure is usually the resistor and then the coil, so this is ingenious cause it gets rid of the resistor and essentially provides a "back up" coil circuit so at least low speed would work even if a failure occurs.
If the SPAL fan motors do not have the same design, then you need to do some conversion to get it to work. You can try to maintain low/high speed operation for both fans or run a single fan vs. both fans always at full speed. The wiring for the latter is super easy, the former will require some thought and would have to use a resistor to drop the voltage (for lower speed operation), which would introduce a point of failure. Or you can just buy a SPAL controller for $75. Or just use thermostat controlled relays for $20.
Not sure this is helpful...
07-19-2007, 02:28 PM
#200
Originally Posted by rcdash
booger, not sure how Sharif is doing it, but I took a quick look at the circuit in the service manual. (Disclaimer: this is slightly different that what Sharif described and he got it to work, so I may be wrong).
To my eye, it looks like there are two coils in each of the stock fan motors. Looks like there are two positive leads and two ground leads going to each motor (4 wires with colors noted in parentheses). Pin 3 (B) is always hooked to ground. Pin 2 for each motor (L and L/W) go to +12 volts when fan relay 1 is active for low speed operation. For high speed operation both relay 3 (power) and relay 2 (gnd) turn on simultaneously (ECU controlled), which brings Pin 1 for each motor (R and LG) to +12 volts and brings Pin 4 for each motor (Y/R and Y) down to GND to complete the circuit.
Essentially the OEM fan motors look purpose-built to draw current from either 1 or both sources to determine speed. This is not your usual resistor driven (voltage controlled) fan. The motors appear to have 2 coils, each with its own 12v circuit (like 2 motors in one). The most common point of failure is usually the resistor and then the coil, so this is ingenious cause it gets rid of the resistor and essentially provides a "back up" coil circuit so at least low speed would work even if a failure occurs.
If the SPAL fan motors do not have the same design, then you need to do some conversion to get it to work. You can try to maintain low/high speed operation for both fans or run a single fan vs. both fans always at full speed. The wiring for the latter is super easy, the former will require some thought and would have to use a resistor to drop the voltage (for lower speed operation), which would introduce a point of failure. Or you can just buy a SPAL controller for $75. Or just use thermostat controlled relays for $20.
Not sure this is helpful...
To my eye, it looks like there are two coils in each of the stock fan motors. Looks like there are two positive leads and two ground leads going to each motor (4 wires with colors noted in parentheses). Pin 3 (B) is always hooked to ground. Pin 2 for each motor (L and L/W) go to +12 volts when fan relay 1 is active for low speed operation. For high speed operation both relay 3 (power) and relay 2 (gnd) turn on simultaneously (ECU controlled), which brings Pin 1 for each motor (R and LG) to +12 volts and brings Pin 4 for each motor (Y/R and Y) down to GND to complete the circuit.
Essentially the OEM fan motors look purpose-built to draw current from either 1 or both sources to determine speed. This is not your usual resistor driven (voltage controlled) fan. The motors appear to have 2 coils, each with its own 12v circuit (like 2 motors in one). The most common point of failure is usually the resistor and then the coil, so this is ingenious cause it gets rid of the resistor and essentially provides a "back up" coil circuit so at least low speed would work even if a failure occurs.
If the SPAL fan motors do not have the same design, then you need to do some conversion to get it to work. You can try to maintain low/high speed operation for both fans or run a single fan vs. both fans always at full speed. The wiring for the latter is super easy, the former will require some thought and would have to use a resistor to drop the voltage (for lower speed operation), which would introduce a point of failure. Or you can just buy a SPAL controller for $75. Or just use thermostat controlled relays for $20.
Not sure this is helpful...
My shop has them wired and working [ twin Flex-o-Lite fans ] , but I think they maybe only coming on at high temp setting . ANd I dont know if they are on when the AC is on . Sharif said he would post the diagram for it . I was going to take that with me when I return to my shop and ask them exactly how they had it wired .