no slip, like i said, my boost is still creeping up, i have the normal vq de power drop off around right before redline like everyone else with a de motor.

 

Full valve train upgrade is a bust to build RPM's, Turbos capable of supporting the airflow,porting to the heads..The next step is to get together our custome ram air manifold and Q45 TB to raise the HP levels even more up top.. I also am looking foward to the BC stage 3's and the GTM stage 3's soon!!

 

Julian,

have you guys found it worth going to +1mm oversized valve with the stock seats? It seems that that the stock seats aren't going to make the extra valve diameter worth anything.

I am on the fence about changing exhaust valves right now. I haven't heard of anyone burning, or overheating their exhaust valves yet. I know there are Inconel and special alloy SS exhaust valves on the market, but I am not convinced of their necessity at the 600 rwhp level.....yet.

 

Those numbers of lift and duration really don't tell you anything though - it's all about the lobe profile not about the final lift and duration. Getting all "wowed" by advertised lift and duration is a waste of time - the proof is in the ramp rate

Look at the dyno graph on my car (below) - NA yes, but a very flat torque curve and power that doesn't end, yet my cams are, on paper, "mild".

 

Which cams you running?And can you post a link to the dyno graph, i dont feel like sifting through 10+ pages..

 

Anything you can do to increase the engine's efficiency and reliability, obviously is good. The bigger the valve, the bigger the hole, the more air you can flow.The lighter and stronger the valve train, the higher you can rev..Most cams make power up top as opposed to down low, therefore a higher reving motor would work best..
It all depends on your goals and driving habbits and tuner/builders reccomendations. I personally would not go out of my way to sell a full valve train to 90% of my customers, however you do get that 10% that want to go the extra step.

 

The manifold and TB upgrades are intriguing - are those available for purchase on your website? I looked and couldn't find anything... Is that a drop in electronic TB? Looking forward to updates on that!

 

Julian, with your setup, do you think it'd make power to 8000 rpm?

First post in the thread.

 

I dont see why not..Ill try reving it out on my next session,possibly tommorow with some 112 octane to see where it goes.

 

Wasn't really "wowed" - just the opposite actually - but your answer is very helpful - thanks. And in fact I wonder why the ramp rate or actual lobe profile is not one of the marketed data points used for a cam. Would love to actually see an overlay of the lobe profiles for the different cams...

 

No, it will not be available for resale on a street car, as of yet.There will be vast modifications needed to the hood for fitment. We will be finalizing the project over the winter for a spring testing.Right now were concentrating on making good power,and good 1/4 mile passes on all "off the shelf" parts with no real custom work done. This is a true showcase of some products we sel and install, and are redily available to our customers from us. For use on a driven street car.

 

I guess the lobes and profiles are the cam makers secret info.. Otherwise all cams would be the same..Adam dyno does show a steady power curve till almost 8000rpms. This is a dramatic increase over a stock motor and redline, where as power falls off dramatically after 6000-6200 rpms, to the point of it being pointless to rev any higher.im betting Adams car, like mine, pulls hard all the way to redline of 7800. Just cause its past its PEAK power, does not mean its not making usable power. At 6900 he is making 309, at 7800 he is making around 295..Still makes power..

 

I think the VH45 TB is wire driven and the VK45 uses a different harness than the VQ35 so would not be an easy or direct swap. But they're 90mm which is massive. Extremely popular for swaps on the RB36DETT and VG30DETT for big power gains.

 

That is correct..We are converting to the cable driven and eliminating our ECM from the car.It should improve throttle response and give the car that REAL feel like the older muscle cars had... We feel the stock sized TB will be a restriction in our future upgrades.

 

I didn't mean you were wowed, just a general comment to those who say "if 264 is good, 280 must be better", etc. etc.

Cams, like headwork, are what make or break a well tuned machine. Get it right, and you have gobs of useable torque, and a power band that just climbs. Get it wrong and you've got, well, you know. It's relatively easy to make power with boost - its hard to make power with boost without having to crank the wick up to 25 + psi to do so - this is where an efficient head package and cams that were properly researched for the turbo/head/manifold, really shine.

Why isn't one of the advertised specs? simple- it's the whole thing that separates cams from cams worth having

Julian - the details of my build are in the first post in the thread ya lazy bum Tomei 268's though is what I'm currently running.

 

The 1mm larger valve fits just fine on the seat, and you can actually make the throat close to 90% of the valve without any issues and make 1400hp and 50lbs of boost. But, at 600hp, that large of a valve is simply not needed. The restriction in the VQ head is not the valve. The factory valvejob sucks, but the size is just fine. Besides, in my humble opinion, without a large bore and cam your not taking advantage of the large valve anyway. The cam will make more power then the 38mm valve any day.

As far as valve materials and springs...spring pressure will make power, period. Valve float is a ugly thing. And a big enough cam with some fast ramp speeds will take out a crappy valvespring real quick..I would put a valvespring in anything I put a cam in.

The factory valves in most cases will break and not bend. Some aftermarket stuff will do the same. All aftermarket exhaust valves are made of inconel, most are made of EV8 which is the older, or lower grade. Ferrea's comp plus valves are made from Numonic 90 which is one of the latest and greatest. There is also pyromint which is the same stuff that they use from top fuel to pro rwd...we use them alot in high hp apps.

if your running a turbo with a cam..I would put a good valve and valvespring in it.

I know the question was towards Julian, but I thought I would jump in

 

Headgames,

Thank you for the well thought out repsonse! I was only aware that Supertech offers inconel exhaust valves for the VQ. Aren't the Ferreas some "special alloy." I'm not sure what offerings Manley and REV have.

 

Yeah,
What he said..
Dave from Hadgames does most of our head packages...His stuff is top notch and makes some stupid silly power..

 

as I said...every valve manufacture makes exhaust valves from inconel, you can not buy one that is not.. Ferrea's "special alloy" is the numonic 90 that I have mentioned. The Nimonic 90 is great for turbos' because it will withstand heat up to 2,000 degrees! 600hp is fine for EV8, actually we have used EV8 in 700hp Honda's. Anything between 700-1000whp we use the Numonic 90 and anything above that gets the Pyromet which is good for 2700 degrees.
And that is just preference because of the stuff we have seen in our race programs, because I know other people have made 1400+with the EV8. We were seeing valves bending, tweaking or breaking after 40lbs-70lbs of boost..so we made changes in our street programs for insurance! I could be wrong but Ferrea is the only manufacture that carries that high grade inconel.
(pyromet) for the import heads.



The Supertech, Manley, and REV all would work great in your application,(600hp) they all have a decent spring package for the VQ as well.

 

A Kinder more Gentle Julian...I love that..and your curves as well

I finally read the whole thread, didn't see what cams you used Julian, or maybe I missed it.