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FP Cooling Mod Review

Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:29 AM
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Default FP Cooling Mod Review

I just thought I would share a couple of thoughts regarding the water cooling mod I just recently purchased from Forged Performance.

Reason for purchase was to better support the needs of a hotter running engine due to installation of a built block with twin turbos. I can expect the engine to run a bit hotter than when it was stock and as well with turbos...Hence the justification for the purchase.

Here is a photo of what you get:





I just spent the last 2 days working on installing this cooling mod. Unfortunately, I only found out about this mod after completing my engine installation. I just thought I would share a couple of issues I had with the package...allbeit minor:

In order for the install to work properly, buyers should be informed that:
1) unless they replace the water temp sensor, with a modified side access port version, they are going to have to extend the sensor wiring to reach a top mount water temp sensor.
2) they should either buy or perhaps FP can include a plug for the bypass line, that is no longer being utilized. (I think I used 1/4 inch cooling plugs...not sure, I'll have to check)
3) you will need to purchase a longer hose to reach the oil cooler. (Especially if you have TT's) There is a lot of interference with the added intercooler & intake piping.

These 3 items mentioned caused me to make 3 separate runs to AutoZone...before being able to complete the install.

Also, with the hose component connecting the side piping with the rear piping, buyers should understand that the finished product will sit much further forward than previously, which means that you may need to shorten the radiator hose coming from the top passenger side to the side mounted coolant pipe. This was a bit of an unexpected surprise, which resulted in my cutting my nice new samco hose.

***EDIT*** This was my rookie error. Since the kit came with no instructions, I didn't realize that I had to cut the side mount piping shorter to make it fit in the stock location. You literally have to cut about 1 inch of metal piping off of the stock side mount piping before it will be able to be bolted back in the front stock timing cover location.*****edit****

I'll add some pics when I get a chance.

Anyway, after all was said and done, the finished product should work just fine. It might be a little harder to bleed the line since the piping also sits a bit higher than the radiator fill cap opening. BTW, Any advice on bleeding would be appreciated.

Advice: When disassembling to perform install, please take a moment to make sure than any electrical connections in the front passenger engine area are opened or else you may end up pulling and breaking a sensor like I did. I unknowingly pulled on the power steering pressure sensor and broke the head off. No big deal to replace, just $85 down the drain for a replacement sensor.

Overall: I hope this thing works as well as it is supposed to. It would definitely have been much easier to accomplish when the motor was out, but I knew that when I started the project, so no complaints.

Last edited by rrmedicx; Dec 15, 2009 at 08:15 AM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:59 AM
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nice write up!! i was thinkin of doin that to since my motor is out of the car...keep up posted on the results!!
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:39 AM
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easiest way as I did was to weld the top bypass as well as the oil cooler plug and did away with the oil cooler hoses since I added an external oil cooler.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:17 AM
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I installed this on my rebuild and had not a single issue that listed.

I had no issue with the water temp plug

I had no issue with the bypass. I merely coupled the feeds together off the throttle body and blocked off the LHS to the TB. The only reason for this is there is one less opening/feed on the new piece.

I had no issue with the feed to the cooler.

The only issues I had were with the fuel lines. I had to pull the lower plenum track off to run the fuel lines up to the rails once the motor was in the car.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:36 AM
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Its a must have when going FI and road racing
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by westpak
easiest way as I did was to weld the top bypass as well as the oil cooler plug and did away with the oil cooler hoses since I added an external oil cooler.
Any pics of your work?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:46 AM
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Any chance you got a temp log from your car prior to the install? I've "heard" that these don't reduce temps as well as some think... Although I'm no expert nor do I have any real world experience. Has anyone gotten a chance to log before and after temps? I'd really like to know if this is as crucial as some may think...

BTW - I'm not trying to stir up a debate, but I have heard that these don't do as much as one would expect. Also, I'd like to see if the temp reduction is worth the cost / install effort. 5 degrees f cooler wouldn't sway me, but 15-20 definitely would...

TIA

EDIT - rmedicx: nice write up
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TENGAI
Any chance you got a temp log from your car prior to the install? I've "heard" that these don't reduce temps as well as some think... Although I'm no expert nor do I have any real world experience. Has anyone gotten a chance to log before and after temps? I'd really like to know if this is as crucial as some may think...

BTW - I'm not trying to stir up a debate, but I have heard that these don't do as much as one would expect. Also, I'd like to see if the temp reduction is worth the cost / install effort. 5 degrees f cooler wouldn't sway me, but 15-20 definitely would...

TIA

EDIT - rmedicx: nice write up
I didn't have a water temp gauge prior to the install, nor did I log the water temps off the stock setup.

Honestly, I think it makes a difference, but not all that much. I believe the rear stat is 190*. Basically I see temps a lot of the time around 180*. That would mean the rear stat is closed most of the time. Under harder driving conditions the temps climb past 190 and the stat would open. I don't see the temps dramatically drop or even stay constant at 190 under hard driving. Temps usually climb to 200-210 and level off -> 210 would be under VERY hard driving.


One thing I can tell though is my oil temps are down though. usually saw them climb to 220 under hard conditions, but now rarely do I see them above 205-210. I have no idea if it is related, but I am running the same oil cooler I was previously before I installed the new rear coolant mod
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:01 AM
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has the temps gone down??
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TENGAI
Any chance you got a temp log from your car prior to the install? I've "heard" that these don't reduce temps as well as some think... Although I'm no expert nor do I have any real world experience. Has anyone gotten a chance to log before and after temps? I'd really like to know if this is as crucial as some may think...

BTW - I'm not trying to stir up a debate, but I have heard that these don't do as much as one would expect. Also, I'd like to see if the temp reduction is worth the cost / install effort. 5 degrees f cooler wouldn't sway me, but 15-20 definitely would...

TIA

EDIT - rmedicx: nice write up
Static temp drop is negligable if any. I think I mentioned in a couple previous posts, that they help prevent coolant racing under constant heavy load conditions.

But you are correct, if you are just driving around you arent going to notice any meaningful difference.


Good write up.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:36 PM
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Ultimately, I would be happy so long as the temps don't go up. That to me would be a success. To run a TT set-up, both on road and potentially at the track and have the temp stay in the norm range would keep me satisfied.

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I appreciate the quick responses.

This is a very interesting subject, keep it coming.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 01:55 PM
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can you post pics point at what you are talking about in your three items?

can you show how you extended the wires and why?
can you show how you had to extend the hoses? etc??
and a pic of the plug you used?



im gonna try and check that on my car when i get home, just thought it would be good to add to the pictures?

i have this mod, i purchased the parts separately but havent had the time to install it......

thanks,

- jason
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:28 PM
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So those of you with this installed, did it indeed make bleeding the coolant system more difficult?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:29 PM
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Default Issue #1:

Okay, here is my crack at it!
THIS IS WHY YOU NEED TO EXTEND THE WIRING? TEMP SENSOR LOCATIONS ARE IN DIFFERENT SPOTS.
Attached Thumbnails FP Cooling Mod Review-1.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Oct 24, 2007 at 02:43 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:34 PM
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Default Issue #2 And 3:

Plug Location And Bypass Hose No Longer Being Used.

Also, Is This The Oil Hose You Need To Extend?


Attached Thumbnails FP Cooling Mod Review-2.jpg   FP Cooling Mod Review-3.jpg  

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Oct 24, 2007 at 02:42 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 02:44 PM
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let me know if i got that right?

i will be installing this mod on my car.
here is a pick of the one i bought from a member on the forum.
Attached Thumbnails FP Cooling Mod Review-p1010002-3.jpg   FP Cooling Mod Review-p1010006-2.jpg  
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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this is the pathfinder mod, right?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:06 PM
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yes , this is the upgraded cooling system for the nissan pathfinder.

these people are making it sound complicated and its really not at all.


you dont have to rewire the coolant temp sensor. that kinda makes me laugh. it will reach, its kinda a tight fit from the cam angle sensor but fits just fine.



i still am not a fan of this mod due to the more places to have a coolant leak/issue. a big radiator, some fan shrouds and some good coolant in the car and it will be just fine....

Last edited by Audible Mayhem; Oct 24, 2007 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 06:54 PM
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Yes, that isthe correct placement for the plug. It seems a little strange, but based on the 45 degree angle of the original temp sensor, I found it a little short on reach for the now vertical position temp sensor on the new pipe.

Or it could be that my harness is just sitting a bit lower than previously, thereby shortening the amount ofplay left in the original wire. Either way,I made it work.

Also, as far as the hose to the oil cooler...I definitely needed to get a longer hose to reach the distance.

Was anyone able to re-fasten the 14mm bolt up front to secure the side pipe back to the front of the timing cover? I found that it was extended too far to even dream of re-attaching the pipe back to the original location.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
yes , this is the upgraded cooling system for the nissan pathfinder.

these people are making it sound complicated and its really not at all.


you dont have to rewire the coolant temp sensor. that kinda makes me laugh. it will reach, its kinda a tight fit from the cam angle sensor but fits just fine.



i still am not a fan of this mod due to the more places to have a coolant leak/issue. a big radiator, some fan shrouds and some good coolant in the car and it will be just fine....


+1

A while back when we first heard of people doing this mod, I got a bit excited as to the possibilities of it working for our track cars that see crazy temperatures at the track alot (especially in the 115deg. desert). When I ran the theory of it by the guys at JWT and Mark they looked into the possibilities of it actually working from an engineering point of view and just simply told me no . Long story short they shot the idea down and bursted my bubble. Since then, I have driven very similerly built cars on a track with this bypass cooling mod and without it. I have seen no difference, and have seen absolutely no benifit in this mod either. It was a nice try, and I am always up for any mod that will aid in cooling these cars when FI'ed.

I would just stick to good coolant, a big rediator, low temp thermostat, and good oxigenated fuel for cooling purposes.


Nice review and write up, though

Last edited by WA2GOOD; Oct 24, 2007 at 07:04 PM.
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