Well, I finally getting around to installing my greddy TT kit on my built motor I got from Forged. Im going to try and document most of the install in this thread with pics. Hopefully I can point out some things that arent included in the vague Greddy instructions. Im hoping to get some help from those who have already done the install so I can prevent problems (heat, leaks, cooling, etc) and make sure everything is done right the first time around.

I have a fully built long block, but I am still driving my Z since its a daily driver, so I plan to document the build this way.

first, I will be putting the engine on an engine stand and installing as much of the turbo kit I can possibly install before tearing the engine out of my car to transfer the rest of the parts.

My first questions:

1) How do you put the VQ on an engine stand. I have seen this done several ways, and I know at nissan (where I work) they have a brace that goes around the the motor mounts, but they wont let me take it home.

There are only about 5 bolt holes that arethreaded on the upper portion of the tranny housing. Is it safe to just use these or will it be unbalanced on the stand? Or should I just use two bolts on the bottom with some washers and nuts on the other side?

2)Im trying to gather most of the materials needed for installing the manifolds, turbos, turbo lines, wastegates, and downpipes, and oil pan. (this is my first step on themotor side)

What RTV should be used on these parts where gaskets arent provided? Should I use any loctite or similar on any of these bolts?
What should be heat wrapped, or double heat wrapped in this area?
Heard bad things about the w/g gaskets on the greddy kit, should i replacethese, or use RTV?

Well Ithink thats all for now...I will post pics of progressand parts in the next few days. If I have any questions or findings I will post.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/288630-assembly-of-my-new-built-short-block.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/111571-how-to-swap-your-own-built-engine-by-bruschijr-updated-6-17-2005-a.html

and this forum https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy-458/

most of us in here are Credit Card Ballers

 

Nissan has a special mount and engine stand that holds the engine sideways on an engine stand.

Most people mount the engine longitudinally on the engine stand though. Use the transmissions mounting holes!

 

I like to use Hondabond gasketmaker. It's expensiver but it's the best for everything but exhast manifolds. For exhaust use RTV copper gasketmaker.

JET

 

subscribed... good luck

 

Thanks for the links, they will definately help!

As for the engine stand, Im not sure which tranny mounting holes to use to best stabalize the engine. Not all the holes have threads. I have seen pics of some just using the top 5-6 holes on the upper half of the bell housing, which is the only ones that have threads for a bolt. The lower half, I could use a nut, if the bolt is long enough to go through the engine stand and the tranny housing. I have build several engine before, but they have been 4cyl and have threads all the way around. I just wanted to know the proper way to do it on an engine like the VQ.

 

you engine stand will only have 4 mounting arms.....so you can only use 4 hole son the back of the engine. In fact, it is kind of hard to get the arms into a nice alignment using all 4 arms. You can get away with using 3 arms, but try to balance out their locations on the block.

 

take your time..

 

he did his self install, very helpful person. if u feel u need to ask a question im sure he wouldnt mind answering you.

 

Make sure you think about clamp orientation when installing the kit on a motor removed from the vehicle. Orient a clamp the wrong way and you won't be able to access it when the motor is back in the car.

JET

 

sub

 

on a side note...your TN kit is still running strong, but i am going down the same path as you

 

use the tranny mount. the ones that dont have thread on the engine stand there should be a peice that goes through that you just put a nut on it. use the grey silicon bottle. you should only need one. for the exhaust manifold alot of the nuts that go on the stud you can use the gun but others gotta use an open end wrench. make sure you face the turbos the correct way and the clamp that connects the hot and cold side make sure you face them down for easy access later in the engine bay. other than that installing it when it when the motor is out is fairly easy. oh yeah you might wanna buy some extra heat wrap and wrap everything GOOD. hope this post helps

 

When doing an out of the car install with a 5AT should you remount the trans to the engine before you install the turbos and waste gates or is their enough romm to mount the trans after?

 

Good luck on the install man!

 

thats good to know man. I cant believe its been that long since Im just now getting around to insalling my TT kit..hah

 

Yes, I do realize there are 4 mounting arms. Im not new at putting engines on an engine stand. Like I stated before, I have built several 4cyl motors, but none of the tranny housings have been like this (the lower half not being threaded). I wasnt sure if mounting all 4 arms on the upper half of the tranny housing would strip the threads being so much weight on the one side, and the engine being aluminum.

Anyone have any pics of the engine on an engine stand???

Here is a pic off of one of those links posted above:


As you can tell the bottom one does not appear to have abolt going through it.

 

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/286544-diy-engine-and-tranny-removal.html

 

Do me a favor and just call me if you have any questions. I have been in and out of my engine about 3 times already along with the Greddy Kit. I can probably do the install with my eyes closed. I'll PM you my cell #. And please use the links posted above, I have already photo documented every step in detail, including answers to your tranny question.

 

You won;'t have any issues with hurting the mounting holes. these engines are light. with out the heads, I was able to pick up the assembled short block and oil pans and slide it into my engine stand by myself. It wasn't a cake walk, but it is doable by one person. Im sure these mounting loactions are plenty strng...even with only 3 bolts.