holding up great. the rubber ones from advanced auto are cracked, but not leaking yet.... i wish i could remember the sizes.

 

I had already bought the ones from the link you posted. I received them yesterday, but they seemed very flimsy which is why I asked. Glad to hear they're still good.

 

I bought some Samco blanking caps, also from the UK, from here:

http://racebikebitzusa.com/index.php...lanking%20caps

These were definitely not flimsy; took forever to show up though.

 

I was looking at those originally since all of my couplers and hoses match. But didn't think they were legit since I couldn't find any evidence that Samco actually made caps, and the only place other than Ebay that sold them is what you linked. Even some of the vendors couldn't tell me if Samco offered those.

 

Yeah...I called Samco USA about them too and they had no clue...but since Samco is based in the UK its not too surprising....

 

I've read though the forum and this thread, I'm wondering if I'm the only one who wants a quick fix for the leaky/dirty oil cooler without messing with the bypassing of the water lines. A quick fix of just installing the oil stud part# 15213-31U00, slap on the oil filter, connect the 2 water lines together, and job is done in less time than it took to jack the car up. I guess I'm a lazy guy or just being cost effective.

 

ya, you can, but as you can see, the die hards that are doing this mod are also looking to eliminate, why have water circulate through unused hoses...

For a daily driver that wants to avoid the leak issue of the oil cooler, sure, ok just connect the lines, who cares of excess routing/flow of water..

though i would bet you would have to replace one side or the other with a slightly longer then use a double male barb hose connector, i wouldnt stretch a preformed hose on a X year old car...thats maintenance no no..

-J

 

Silicon ones are still holding up fine. Rubber ones are still cracked and still not replaced... should have done it after i installed the headers... d'oh

 

The majority of the stuff from Autozone is crap anyways. Its good that the silicone caps are doing well incase I need to use those down the line. I ended up ordering the Samco caps and used those instead.

 

Ancient thread, I know. A few questions for anyone here who knows please;
How does the hard pipe on the passenger side separate from the rear pipe?
What type of metal are these pipes?
Do ya'll use any sort of sealant on threads of npt fittings?
I like how quadcam cut the pipe & just got a longer upper rad. hose. This gets rid of two nipples & no worries of leaking but it also gets rid of the only bracket that holds said hard pipe to the block which also may play a role in keeping said passenger side hard pipe connected to the rear hard pipe? I ask about sealent for the npt fitting as well as the type of metal these hard pipes are made from because either way, deleting the t.b., thermostat & filter heater hoses will necessitate the use of npt fittings as this is my only mode of transport, so I must have everything possible to get the job done right the first time, naa meee?
Thanks to all who contribute to these various forums and share your ideas & what you've done. Ya'll are tops in my book!

 

Personally when I tear my motor back apart I'm getting rid of the stupid pathfinder collant mod, and just getting the HR coolant mod.

 

I see there's 2 bolts on the drivers side & you say the passenger side slides into the pipe @ the back of the engine. That's what it looked like from photos I've seen, but what holds the passenger side in place? Quadcam, if I correctly understood what he wrote so many years ago, said he cut this pass. side pipe removing these two nipples, the thermo. bypass & oil filter bull-spit. The only way to do that would be to also remove the bracket that holds this pipe to the engine, as it's located between the two nipples. Looks as though this bracket is the only thing holding the pass. side pipe to the rear pipe.
The type of metal these pipes are made of, from what I understand, is important if one is to "drill & tap" and plug w/an npt. If the wrong npt metal type is used, the npt metal & the pipe metal can react in a bad way, corrode and spring a leak, or so I've read.

So what type of npt plugs did u use and how long have they held up?

The HR coolant mod does look trick & it gets some **** out of the way on both sides of the engine BUT now you'll have a hot-*** pipe running right under/over the intake manifold whereas previously the heat was able to dissipate/radiate outside of the engine. You clearly know far more than I about these things but unless your overheating, why bother.
Thank you Conway_160. I really appreciate the feedback.

 

Here is some better information for you.

I just used vacuum caps to cover and seal mine, one of them is leaking so I need to find it and fix it.

 

Well **** me Tommy. I see now. There is a bolt below the slip joint. I went out to the garage & looked for myself. Sneaky little ***** that bolt is. In your previous post I thought you were referring to the driver side where one can see bolts connecting the two pipes. To the lay person, lazily looking around it totally alluded me. Thank you for pointing this out and great photos.
I'm going to make a couple calls tomorrow and find out what type of metal these pipes are so I know without a doubt what npt plugs are compatible. I'll post what I find out. The proper type of metal plug may very well have better longevity and resistance to pressure over a weld.
The small-ish pipe on the drivers side is a form of steel as mine has a very mild amount of surface rust around a bend near the block. The passenger side is clean. The rear section is either coated on the exterior for whatever reason OR is a completely different type of metal. I believe Quadcam wrote that he took the two nipples, the one to the left of the blue heat sensor in your photo and the one for the t.b. and ran a short hose, tying the two together. Until I pull my engine, that's the route I think I'll take for now. The rest of these little piggies are getting plugged.

 

Instead of NPT threaded fittings, I had my pipes welded by a local shop. I then pressure tested them, sent them to be powder coated, and tested them again before finally bolting them on:

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...l#post10716069

 

Looks great. I'm working my engine & bay in stages and this heater hose delete bash is one stage all by itself. Interesting that you posted this photo as these colors are the theme of my engine & bay. Nothing polished, well, except for bolt heads. Gonna G2 everything either black or silver.
Did the one who did your welding know what kind of metal he was working with?

 

Not sure. I just showed what I needed done. I'm sure the back piece, and t stat hosing is cast aluminium (I'm pretty sure I told the shop that). Not sure what the thin wall stuff is.

 

Rear pipe is aluminum. The side pipes had some corrosion which actually makes them look like tarnished brass or copper. Took some sand paper to them & a magnet and they're either steel or iron.
Z1 didn't know so my next call was Summit tech. dept. & guy told me one can use any npt material on steel or iron without issue but should use some teflon sealant on threads. I'm going with steel. I know others have tapped these pipes but I wonder if they are too thin.

 

I've decided to JB Weld'em all up. When prepared properly, JB ought to outlast these crappy steel pipes. If it were to fail, which it won't but if it did fail, the hard lines will get shorter & the hoses will get longer. Easy-peasy lemon squeezy!

 

I've read your thread on building your engine. You went through some serious ****, but stuck it out. Good for you.
Quick question; do you remember the torque spec's for the steel coolant pipes, two bolts on driver side to the block & one on the pass. side connecting the rear aluminum pipe? I cannot find this even in the fsm, damn it.