And the crap hasn't stopped. Just pulled and reinstalled the engine as one of the dual port actuator diaphragms failed. Then a coil pack packed it in, and then it wouldn't start. Changed the starter and relay, turned out we missed the large engine to frame ground.

Anyway, the specs are on CO-27 of the FSM (the cooling system section):

 

Ah, I see. Thank you very much aarrgghh. I've been using some free-be **** I've found on a forum (infinitihelp?)for the fsm because I don't know which fsm to get. A physical copy or one of these online downloadable joints. This page, and I'm sure many others are not available, damn it.
Grounds are really important. Many don't think so, but they are.

 

There's three bolts, large bolts, that are left over from deleting the idler pulley (2 of'em) & the third that was holding the bracket for the bypass hose that connects to the pass. side hard pipe, then travels across the engine and terminates @ the driver side hard pipe.
I left the two that supported the idler pulley out but the third is so bulky. I'm assuming it's only purpose was to support one of the two brackets for said bypass hose & if so, why such a massive bolt? I put this one back in place and am hoping someone knows if this bolt is necessary, if it's for the timing chain cover or what???

 

I found that this third bolt, the lowest of the three does in fact connect to the rear timing chain cover, perhaps all three do so I put it back in, along w/the other two for ***** & giggles.
Photo of my tucked engine bay. Timing chain cover is a work in progress. JB welded the deleted hose hard lines. Original twin tube. Quick, cheap & effective.

Link to my diy wire tuck below. Yes, it's an fx35, but similar enough.
https://www.infinitiscene.com/thread...-redux.230572/

 

i cant beleive you JB welded it lol, update us if it does blow, i ordered silicone caps off mcmaster per voboys post

 

Will do, but don't hold your breath.