Hey, anyone else notice that FFP's FMIC is centered whereas some of the other install pics people have posted show the FMIC off to the passenger side?

 

We chose to leave the FMIC slightly to the passenger side as that was the best way the bumper fit back on the car. We head to the Dyno today....Wish us luck. I'm only a little concerned because when we set up the dyno schedule for today the guy doing the dyno advised us he had just dyno'd a 350z with a "Roots" type unit that only pulled an addional 30 RWHP over stock. That sucks especially after having to buy a new hood.

 

Can't wait to hear/see the results. Keep feeding the frenzy!!

 

Can hardly wait to see it! Let me know when your coming by and I'll try to have my car here for you to drive.

 

Probably will be Thursday. I have to fly to Concord today

 

Dying to see the #'s LS1's here we come, Vipers get in line u're next

 

30hp?? that sucks.. something must be wrong with it..

Not sure how visible the FMIC will be in real life, but shifted to one side looks kind of weird.. Since I am picky, I think it's a must to be in the middle.. Maybe ATI will fix this in the next release (upgrade).

 

Let's see now........369 RWHP...........or a perfectly centered intercooler............HMMMMMMMM, tough choice.......now HOW far off center is it again?

 

It's just a tad off center......


Update: We fired the car up and have a squeal which appears to be coming from the Power Steering Unit. Working on clearing the problem now.

 

Thanks FFP (Bill, Kieth) for the pics and doing such a good job I apreciate it and I am saving them.

CENTERING;
It's great to see the FMIC centered that tells me FFP is doing great work in attention to detail. They came highly reccomonded for a reason! They are well known by ATI for several years.

As for looks it will not matter, you will see when my front goes on that I have the Stillen Version II complete body kit which includes a silver diamond cut front grille. I doubt it will even show at all unless you looked really close we shall see but from the pics I know I chose the right shop for my baby!

Dyno numbers and Crawford.

I'm interested in comparison too. I almost bought the cat pipes but decided to stay dtreet legal in CA. The best comparison will not be the highest number in HP to me it will be the biggest gain over your stock Dyno. So get a baseline of where you are at before you do the kit so we can see how much you gained over stock and now much I gain over stock and that will help us more comparing your cat pipes and the Crawford Z. I'm sure this will be a great compariosn for both makers of both products. I got 5 numbers from Mike on the A/F so tuning will be paramount too.

Unfortuntely I think my Dyno is scheduled today and today is the 17th day straight here of over 100 degrees (tied the record of all time) not the best Dyno weather.

It looks like FFP made good time considering they did an EGT tap, headers and catback. JR did you get a Wideband 02 EGT tap for your Dyno and where did you put the guage?

What numbers are you using on your FMU? How hot was your exhaust when you used the numbers you achieved the best numbers? You Dyno numbers may help everyone, I will post mine when all i said and done. It should be 5 octets of fuel numbers like

23 35 38 44 58 or similar w/ the exhaust under 800 degrees.

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ATI
Using the "Autospeed Intelligent Controller" may be just the ticket to turn on the second Fan (if not water spray) to something like:

- 2nd fan kicks on when the AC is turned on *or* it reaches stage 2 temps say 210 degrees *or* the Intercooler Temperature differential is (x).

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Poster, can you elaborate more on this post I am interested but never heard of what your talking about.

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AA,

What are you using to "flash" the ECU's and what gains are you showing?

More later.....

 

MaxHax , I posted this possible idea:

"ATI
Using the "Autospeed Intelligent Controller" may be just the ticket to turn on the second Fan (if not water spray) to something like:

- 2nd fan kicks on when the AC is turned on *or* it reaches stage 2 temps say 210 degrees *or* the Intercooler Temperature differential is (x)."

The Autospeed controller was included in a previous post about
Water Injection, IC spray etc....

I have no personal experiance with Autospeed. Their controller is novell , since it attmepts to predict driver habits. But basically:

It may make sense in order to get good repeatable IC performance to kick the factory FANs "on" in reponse to a
heated IC. "Heated" means a positive temperature differential between ambient (~@air cone) vs. IC exit (into TB).

A large delta between these two measurement points implies that he IC has soaked up a bunch of heat due to a previous romp. It would be best if the system attempts to bring this diff as close to 0 as soon as possible so that repeated "romps" will not cause de-timing and hence kill power.

Note that when the IC is heated , it is not dependent upon block temperature or AC activation. ie. Engine could be cool, AC off but IC can still be hot.

Other methods would be (controlled in the same fashion) but with different "cooling effectors":

a) aux fan in front of IC
b) CO2 loop infront of IC
c) water spray in front of IC.

All of these could help stop and go , which is typical for street use. If the factory fans could be more "intellignetly controlled " then no extra , bulky HW would be needed.

 

Since you're shoving a lot more air in there already, isn't the ATI going to minize the effects of the Crawford plenum?

I thought it was best for people with NA, as in not enough pressure to the far cylinders. Since the ProCharger is going to shoving air in there hard and fast, I'm not sure what benefit the Crawford plenum is expected to give.

 

the plenum allows more air to flow to the front 2 cylinders, resulting in less power drop off in the top end. You can shove all the air you want into the stock plenum, but the front 2 cylinders will still get less of it.

 

I think under an FI load the main issue is "balance" of the air flow
distribution. If the Crawford plenum makes the distribution more even , then under load, no cylinder will be any more prone to imbalance (efficiency or detonation) than any others. The ECU will de-time inaccordance to the cylinder(s) which are the "least common denominator" based upon a globalized knock sensor and O2 sensor inputs. The ECU and sensors can not optimize on a per cylinder basis. So if one or two cylinders are operating more inefficiently they can cause the whole bunch to suffer.

But comparative dynos with FI will determine by how much this equlization improves things.

 

Here are the dyno numbers .....stock and blown

P.s...this was at only 6.2 psi

 

Nice dyno numbers!! Time to go out and find an LS1 car to kill!!

 

NICE!

Can't wait to see what 9psi can do and some track times!

Any sound/vid clips?

 

FFP , was the after ATI run with Borla "shorty headers AND catback"?

Anything other non-stock mods?
Was this before or after re-tuning the FMU?
An A/F curve would be really nice also .
Ambient temperature at air filter during runs?


Thanx

 

FFP, sorry forgot something

What is causeing the post ATI curve to shut down earlier than the stock (NA) curve? Looks like given a few extra revs , it would still be rising.

 

362.5 at the rear wheels what do you think that is at the crank. That is MaxHax'z car? And with what other mods. I know this must be in the thread but it is a long thread sorry if the question is redundant.