With an average of 17% loss to the drivetrain (average for the Z I hear), works out to like 436.7 HP at the crank.

 

This is killing me! I want the SC so bad, but I don't want to blow my warranty.

Do you have any video of your pulls? I really want to hear the SC in action. I guess I might be strange but, I like the SC whine.

 

If you put the ATI on , you can just as easily take it off to avoid a warranty dispute. Unless you intend to use and installer and that may cost you more than the potential warranty item.

Anyone who can change spark plugs , you should be able do this job themselves (or at least learn how)..

 

Just to let you know. It is against the law for a manufacture to void your warrant. That's right consumers have rights too! The only way they can void the warrant is if the product is for off road use only or if they can prove the item caused the harm.

 

Yeh bu the dealer can be a major pain.
Sometimes it may jsut be easier to circumvent the issue,
remove it and claim ignorance.
Depends on who your deling with.

 

From what I've seen, auto 350zs have around 19% drivetrain loss, while manuals lose about 14%. This gives Max's ride a healthy ~450 crank hp. Good times.

 

Guys/Gals

This Dyno Tuning and FMU numbers isn't as cut and dried as it may seem.

First off during install (4 days maybe if on a weekend) you disconnect the battery.

What does that tell you about the ECU not having power for 4 days?

Relearning? Ah.... Look at the number of runs in the graph 23 runs man!

You really need to drive it for a week and then redyno, I was there 2-3 hours today and the numbers we used for the FMU are NO WHERE NEAR what someone on the East Coast suggested.
That was after about 10 runs with different FMU numbers.

Let me eleborate as best I can from what I learned today.

In the A5T (my car) the 1-1 gear is 4th. At 4th gear you are going 130mph (unsafe) before even getting close to the rev limiter man you have to shut down you can't do like 150mph on the Dyno! LOL it was crazy! 3rd gears runs were like 330 and that wasn't even at the rev limiter. This sucker makes power! What you need to look at is the baseline dyno and then the SC Dyno 120HP gain! After a 55 shot that is 180HP gain! Yeah.....

Let's talk Dyno's now. This is a very expensive LOAD BEARING dyno. It's stingy with it's numbers the car is under complete load even more of a load than Dyno Jet. It was 10RWHP lower than the Dyno Jet Dyno at Marco's Automotive so that should tell you.

Some people have Dyno numbers in their sig from Dyno's taken while the car wasn't under load. BIG DIFFERENCE!

Now, as Bill mentioned that HP was made at 6.2. The pulley is 7 but every car is going to be different according to their mods. The SC was made for a stock car and will make the most psi with the 7 lb pulley on a stock car. Sometimes MORE than 7 lbs depending on the back pressure. Some have even come come close to 8 or 9 lbs!

So is this good or bad? I look at it this way. I have Borla Headers and Borla catback with a Crawford Plenum. I'm not even getting close to redline in 4th with a 7 lb pulley because my exhaust is venting it out.

So I can (and I am) adding MORE BOOST safely. It's in the works. And switching to copper plugs instead of platinum (ordered.)

If your intake and exhaust is stock and you are maxed out on boost is that good or bad? I guess you can look at it two different ways. Stock car more back pressure more boost but maxed out and choking on exhaust.

I have plenty of room to play with and I am working on some NOS stuff as I type (not ZEX.) The 365 is with shorties, plenum and true dual. The FMU dial in is very time consuming and I truly believe that is why we are not seeing allot of Dyno charts just numbers because the tuning isn't as easy and fast as people expected. You need lots of Dyno time, LOTS.

SOUND

My car has a very deep "you don't even wanna try and race this car " sound but the exhaust note is actually quieter than it was before; I was quite suprised. It's not loud it just sounds mean.

Like a friggen blower is under my hood (oh there is) and you can tell, it's obviuos although the exhaust is not loud which is great, of course this is aftermarket exhaust I don't know how it sounds stock.

I do know this car will safely take a 9lb pulley AND an N20 shot EASY (my car , not a stock one) and it's very very fast.

It's biggest bottleneck is the ECU now. Timing needs to be adjusted, rev limiter raised, top speed raised.

No doubt this car would do 175mph on the top end if it wasn't limited.

COOLING

Don't even worry about it. We did 5 runs straight on the Dyno and he had a temp gun and it wasn't hot anywhere, not the FMIC, not the SC, not the Plenum. I was quite suprised.

In the end the Dyno is just a tool not a how high can you get the numbers machine and my car's A/F is perfect in all gears and that was more of a concern to me.

I want to see the Dyno chart of the Borla car w/o the plenum though!

 

Wait, something is wrong here. First, I believe Max has an automatic. Second, you should have more power with the manual having less of a loss.

 

Max thanx for the big **** post.
But even now there may be more to add.

I assume all the dyno runs were with blowing air from a fan into the front of the car on the dyno ( simluateing a moving car)?

If this is so , this doesn't necessarily imply that there won't be temp soaking (heatsinking) issue with the FMIC setup in stop and go , bursty boost (ie light to light conditions). In heavy road use there still may be need to improve the FMIC thermal stablity (especially under higher average boost levels). This is were an intelligent aux fan, water spray , co2 etc could help.

Also , I would think that the lower boost levels measured may be mostly due to lower intake tract restriction than stock , ie the crawford intake. It would be interesting to see if the psi pops up a bit with the stock plenum over crawford. I would expect the exhaust tract to have less effect on psi readings?

 

Well, time will tell. Mine is on its second day of install, it may possibly be done by the weekend. My car is completely stock, before the procharger. So everybody will have something to compare it to. I probably will be adding the Crawford plenum, catback exhaust, and headers. But I want to see what the procharger does to my stock Z first.

 

"Also , I would think that the lower boost levels measured may be mostly due to lower intake tract restriction than stock , ie the crawford intake. It would be interesting to see if the psi pops up a bit with the stock plenum over crawford. I would expect the exhaust tract to have less effect on psi readings?"

Yes,

I didn't think about the fan on the IC (or heatsink as it's now being referred too.) I do know there was a guy there wishing his older blown car even HAD an IC though!

I'm sure the Plenum played a role too but I want to see the Dyno from the guy who has the same setup as me except the Plenum.

HOWEVER, 6MT's are dynoing higher than A5T's off the bat so through that into the equation too.

Other things I forgot to mention are lack of ways to control timing like you can on an LS1 (LS1 EDIT etc) and lack of a water temp digital read out. These 2 items are crucial.

Like I said it's not gonna be as hard on *my* car as a daily driver than say one that has the IC exposed more and has more backpressure so that was my quandary. Is my Plenum and Exhaust a plus or minus w/ this SC?

I think it remains to be seen but for now I'm viewing it as a plus. Through 1-4 gears the exhaust temp never went over 800 degrees, and the fuel never went under 11.5 or over 12.1 so the A/F timing is perfect. What about spark though and water temp?

Will we never know?

We need more control over our ECU bottom line.

Yes all runs had a fan, yes blowers get hot. 5 Dyno's in a row I expected (and have felt) my engine hotter than it was though this I can say as fact.

 

Paolo.

If we can be swayed in your decisions,
My reuest would be the perform the following adder+dyno sequence:

Stock-> +ATI@7psi -> +Borla Catbacks -> +Borla Headers -> + Crawford.

Oh yeh , thanx for being a guinnea pig

 

Max.........did you get a temp reading from the Greddy gauge?......what is it's maximum temp reading?........is your car reassembled and just getting tuned now?

 

To MaxHax as for programming the ECU timing map, an adjacent
thread has juts mentioned a piggyback ECU that may do the trick.

www.perfectpower.com/products/smt6.asp

Maybe you can talk your shop (FFP?) into buying a $1200 tuner kit?

I really like the dual map capablity , and the fact that you can easily unplug and go back to stock ECU.

 

G3P0,

Yeah I saw that thread on the new ECU but haven't read it yet.

EJ,

My car is in the garage! Was gonna go race but gotta a speeding ticket by CHP!

Pissed, bummed etc. This too shall pass. Cops are all over this car in other counties. Here in Sac they don't even give me a second look.

When you take 99 to FFP watch out for the White Z28 CHP's with a barely visable lightbar there is 6 of them just sitting there every day. They are hard to see clear light bar white car and a Z28.

I need to put the STB back on but don't feel like it right now, pissed about that ticket.

DYNO'S

One other thing, there is a KR wire that causes false KR at extremly high speeds this happened when I Dynoed with the 100 shot of N20 at Marco's too.

So I have been asked by FFP to try and locate this wire so he can relocate it to a better less sensitive area and he may do so with all further installs if it works out well.

My car caught a couple hiccups attributed to this false KR and I have seen this issue on here about the wire bing too thin and poorly located etc.

If you try and max yours out you may see this issue too so come on Forum Members show the world what great people we are and post the location of this KR wire for all to benefit!

Is it in the engine bay? Can someone circle it's location in PhotoChop or something?

If the police didn't follow me everywhere I would go open this puppy up! I redyno next week with a 50 "ish shot" from my new

NOS (NOT ZEX) setup. I emailed ZEX two weeks ago about jet sizes, I guess they don't read their emails so I threw their crap in the trash and sold the accesories

 

So I've been lurking on this thread.

My friend did the instal for jritoli's car.

I'm really curious how you guys install the kit in "11-12 hours."

The hp ratings he got on the jritoli's car are pretty close to to what was advertised. I'll let jritoli post that up.

Have you dyno tuned the car with air fuel mixture gauges?

here's my 2 cents. I'm in the sacto bay area this week. Sacto today and tommorrow 7/30 and 7/31 so I want to see the installs.

-J

 

I, as well as others, would really like to the the stock+procharger dyno as a comparison to Max's dyno. Paolo, is your Z a 6MT or a 5AT? I wonder what a stock 6MT on the east coast (93 octane) would dyno with a procharger?

 

Not to keep stirring the "cooling" pot. But, the simple nature of a freer flowing exhaust will allow your engine to run cooler. I come from a 3rd gen RX-7 background. Any heat with that damn car is a problem. When I got rid of my cats and put a cat-back on, my exhaust temps went waaaay down.

With the placement of the FMIC, heat soak shouldn't be a huge problem, even in normal daily driving.

Still, cooler denser air will generate more horsies.

Now! I need to save more MDK (Mamma Don't Know) money or talk my wife into a SC!


E

 

I assume this is due to the stick only giving up 14% in drivetrain loss, whereas the auto gives up 19%. How much higher have you seen in the HP numbers, my I ask, for sticks???

 

Anyone got a Stillen Supercharger????