My Build: The Good, The Bad & The Progress
#2262
Kimchi Eater
iTrader: (21)
Do you have an aftermarket LSD? LSD makes your car very predictable and easier to control even when you are spinning your wheels in 2nd and 3rd gears. I'm sure you already have one, but if you don't have it already I strongly recommand one.
As far as the suspension setting goes, you should set them softer to make the weight transter easier to the rear when you accelerate. Also set the rear suspension softer than the front. Obviously this suspension setup is for straight way/drag, so I wouldn't recommand this for circuit/ mountain driving.
Last edited by leeboyNY; 10-03-2009 at 08:28 AM.
#2263
Do you have an aftermarket LSD?
Got a bit of validation last night. I matched up with jtgli and his stock block Greddy monster. We pulled for 60mph, 3rd gear @ 4K rpm for me, and he got a quick jump on me by appx 1-1.5 cars and I couldn't reel him in . He is right in his powerband and I needed a second to spool up.
I must say that jtgli's car is monster fast for a stock block and he drives the **** out of it, plus he has no fear of ventilating the block, so he runs a bit more boost than most on a stock motor. We decided to go again and this time I took off the gloves and turned on the meth.
Same race as before from 60mph, he jumps me again, but I spool much faster this time and I reel him in and just pull away. the car pulls all the way through 5th and into 6th like there is no end. I possibly buried the speedo at 160+mph, but I was concentrating elsewhere at the time and didn't look.
I will be headed back to F:T this coming week to bump the redline and some of the other setup parameters. With these turbos I need to run like the Supras, way up in the revs, with monster top end. I know Dave will get me dialed in, it will just take some time to get it all sorted out . I'm just giving some feedback since it seems more and more of us are swapping/re-building our turbos into custom configurations.
#2264
New Member
iTrader: (18)
Bigger turbos and higher redline are like peanut butter and jelly - made to go together. Hal's Z is a great example. I personally would be scared to run the needle off the tach... In particular it bothers me that Terry spun a bearing on his built motor from over-revving (even though we don't know how high he went). I don't have a solid sense of what build specifications are required for a specific rpm goal.
What are your targets / thoughts on this Chris for your car?
What are your targets / thoughts on this Chris for your car?
#2266
First things first, Terry spun a bearing because he swapped F-con's and thought the rev limiter was set and it was not.... period. He over-reved the motor expecting to hit a limiter that was not there.
My motor should easily be good to 8K rpm if not more. Low compression, and a solid build all the way around with big turbos to max it out. If Dave @ F:T lets me do it, I assume its safe, he knows I will push the car, that is why I built it. I didn't spend $$$$$ to just nudge a really solid stock block setup, I spent that to hurt its feelings (jtgli's solid setup being acknowledged).... and still have the meth as a backup .
If I f***ed up and made some lame a$$ turbos on my dime then I would expect my tuner to notify me of my FAIL and I would take it as a life lesson and move forward. That does not appear to be the case, and I have faith in my tuner that has given me a car that drives like stock when not pushed and crushes when I beat on it. The fine details will get worked out, I am the first to run this particular turbo/EMS package, so it is unfair to think of it like F-con and Haltech where specific packages are already proven and easily replicated.
It may just take getting the proper combination of turbos, EMS, fuel, psi and plenum to max it out. I am willing to do what it takes to find that max. I can also fully understand any and all parties involved not wanting to risk another motor failure and trying to keep me as safe as possible given the previous failures. We are all walking a razors edge, as is the case with any new or unproven F/I setup. I can only hope we find a balance between safety and performance that satifies everyone involved. BTW, I'm completely hammered as I write this . I love Fridays!!
My motor should easily be good to 8K rpm if not more. Low compression, and a solid build all the way around with big turbos to max it out. If Dave @ F:T lets me do it, I assume its safe, he knows I will push the car, that is why I built it. I didn't spend $$$$$ to just nudge a really solid stock block setup, I spent that to hurt its feelings (jtgli's solid setup being acknowledged).... and still have the meth as a backup .
If I f***ed up and made some lame a$$ turbos on my dime then I would expect my tuner to notify me of my FAIL and I would take it as a life lesson and move forward. That does not appear to be the case, and I have faith in my tuner that has given me a car that drives like stock when not pushed and crushes when I beat on it. The fine details will get worked out, I am the first to run this particular turbo/EMS package, so it is unfair to think of it like F-con and Haltech where specific packages are already proven and easily replicated.
It may just take getting the proper combination of turbos, EMS, fuel, psi and plenum to max it out. I am willing to do what it takes to find that max. I can also fully understand any and all parties involved not wanting to risk another motor failure and trying to keep me as safe as possible given the previous failures. We are all walking a razors edge, as is the case with any new or unproven F/I setup. I can only hope we find a balance between safety and performance that satifies everyone involved. BTW, I'm completely hammered as I write this . I love Fridays!!
#2268
Professional
iTrader: (2)
When I went to shift, the rev limiter did not kick in and the shifter did not go into second gear. But it happened so quickly, rather than pulling my foot off the throttle, I tried again to ram it again into second gear. Yes, dumb move on my part. But there was nothing holding the motor back from its natural rev limit, which is way, way beyond what the bearings are designed to handle. I'm lucky I didn't throw a rod.
So, there is absolutely no correlation between what happened to my motor and what the circumstances will be with someone reving at 8500 rpm. That said, if you want to rev to 8500 rpm, you should at least have a billet girdle, and cams designed to rev that high. In other words, use GTM or BC cams, and not JWT cams. As I always note, JWT cams will give you more lift for a particular duration, but are limited to about 7500 rpm.
In this regard, generally speaking, the lower the ramp angle is on the cams, the higher you can rev them. JWT cams have the steepest ramp angle, and are good to about 7500 rpm. The BC cams have a little bit less of a ramp angle, and are good to a little bit higher rpm. The GTM cams have an even lower ramp angle, and thus are good to the highest rpm from among these 3 choices. Of course, all this assumes that suitable valve springs are chosen.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 10-09-2009 at 05:34 PM.
#2271
New Member
iTrader: (11)
Thanks for the narrative. Do you have a boost log from your dyno? How does your meth start spraying? AT 4000 rpm, having meth or not, should not have played a that much of difference in your spool. I would prolly have that area on your normal map changed to what it is on your meth map to promote better spool.
Esp if you have a progressive spray setup, the amount of meth added at 4k rpms, would hardly be enough to cool the charge and surely not enough to effect octane.
Esp if you have a progressive spray setup, the amount of meth added at 4k rpms, would hardly be enough to cool the charge and surely not enough to effect octane.
Did I just Quaife?? Yes I did
Got a bit of validation last night. I matched up with jtgli and his stock block Greddy monster. We pulled for 60mph, 3rd gear @ 4K rpm for me, and he got a quick jump on me by appx 1-1.5 cars and I couldn't reel him in . He is right in his powerband and I needed a second to spool up.
I must say that jtgli's car is monster fast for a stock block and he drives the **** out of it, plus he has no fear of ventilating the block, so he runs a bit more boost than most on a stock motor. We decided to go again and this time I took off the gloves and turned on the meth.
Same race as before from 60mph, he jumps me again, but I spool much faster this time and I reel him in and just pull away. the car pulls all the way through 5th and into 6th like there is no end. I possibly buried the speedo at 160+mph, but I was concentrating elsewhere at the time and didn't look.
I will be headed back to F:T this coming week to bump the redline and some of the other setup parameters. With these turbos I need to run like the Supras, way up in the revs, with monster top end. I know Dave will get me dialed in, it will just take some time to get it all sorted out . I'm just giving some feedback since it seems more and more of us are swapping/re-building our turbos into custom configurations.
Got a bit of validation last night. I matched up with jtgli and his stock block Greddy monster. We pulled for 60mph, 3rd gear @ 4K rpm for me, and he got a quick jump on me by appx 1-1.5 cars and I couldn't reel him in . He is right in his powerband and I needed a second to spool up.
I must say that jtgli's car is monster fast for a stock block and he drives the **** out of it, plus he has no fear of ventilating the block, so he runs a bit more boost than most on a stock motor. We decided to go again and this time I took off the gloves and turned on the meth.
Same race as before from 60mph, he jumps me again, but I spool much faster this time and I reel him in and just pull away. the car pulls all the way through 5th and into 6th like there is no end. I possibly buried the speedo at 160+mph, but I was concentrating elsewhere at the time and didn't look.
I will be headed back to F:T this coming week to bump the redline and some of the other setup parameters. With these turbos I need to run like the Supras, way up in the revs, with monster top end. I know Dave will get me dialed in, it will just take some time to get it all sorted out . I'm just giving some feedback since it seems more and more of us are swapping/re-building our turbos into custom configurations.
#2277
I know I am failing at this. Lack of sunny days and friends with time to vid for me is holding me back. Also, we don't have lights on the highways out here, so the vids at night are "meh" at best.
Tune is very solid. The driveability of the car is impressive and the power is smooth. So far, no jerkiness like a Utec and no holes in the fuel map.
Looking into wheels in the classifieds all the time, just haven't found exactly what I'm looking for yet. Besides, spending another $2K on wheels right now would hurt my feelings a bit. Too bad my 5Zigens are only 9.5" wide in the rear, it eliminates many of the very sticky tires from the equation.
Just a bit, they must be 264's then cause I know I don't have 272's.
I believe it is a progressive setup as the meter rises the more pedal I put into it. I'm not sure if the ViPEC has a setup for brake boosting or not. All I know is that the car is markedly faster with the meth on, I remarked on the spool, but that may have been a poor choice of verbage. I basically wrote the narrative for you, since you are compiling on setups for your big build.
and get the tune rock solid and go from there...
Have you looked into a more traction oriented wheel/tire set-up? You should also look into a switch to disable the stop lamp fuse so you can brake boost.
yea i thought they r 264's or 272's also....dam drunk a$$ lol
Do you have a boost log from your dyno? How does your meth start spraying? AT 4000 rpm, having meth or not, should not have played a that much of difference in your spool. I would prolly have that area on your normal map changed to what it is on your meth map to promote better spool
#2278
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
The ViPEC controls the throttle body so I doubt you need a brake boosting switch...the switch would be only to defeat a function of the stock ECU.
On my piggyback I just intercepted the brake wire at the ECU rather than the brake fuse or brake switch. This allows me to leave the switch in 'brake boost' mode without the dash lighting up and loosing ABS after a minute or two..
On my piggyback I just intercepted the brake wire at the ECU rather than the brake fuse or brake switch. This allows me to leave the switch in 'brake boost' mode without the dash lighting up and loosing ABS after a minute or two..