Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

I am subscribing to see how your track event goes this weekend. I'd like to see if your results mirror mine.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Doug, I didnt read the entire thread but wanted to note.

I have blown my dipstick out a few times after only a second or two WOT. It was due to the rubber seal on the dipstick disentegrating. It felt like it was in, but would pull out with no hesitation. I needed a new dipstick to stop the problem. Easy fix, take a look at yours, chances are with how hard it is to get to and the charge pipe being large, that the rubber is torn.

BTW-give me your address Im gonna send you an engine cleaning kit for Xmas!

doug

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the info on the dipstick.. i will definately check that out..

i have no problem cleaning my engine or my car for that matter.. but when you are frustrated about ****.. thats the last thing on your mind.. you knwo what i mean? when i meticuliously clean my car is when things are running great.. when its a drag to drive the car.. you could care less about how clean it is

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Ya I hear ya Doug, Im happy with my car but its sitting dirty right now and I havent driven it in well over a month I know the feeling...hope its an easy fix for you.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Larry used a 7/16" drill bit in a drill press to drill out the bottom of the PCV............then the valve dropped right out. I think that's what happened... I was busy installing my downpipes at the time.

D-tuned

iTrader: (3)

info for results

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Yes... I used a 7/16 drill bit. You want to remove almost the entire lower black cap. The inner diameter of the pcv valve is 7/16. So when you drill the black outer cap off the white poppet valve falls out. You do not want to drill the white valve. That can't be done. Then drill from the top part of the pcv valve to enlarge the hole for more flow. As Andrew said I used his drill press to do this.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

Thank you.

God d@mn it though - why didn't I think of that? Wasted that $20 piece.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

sometimes, the easy solution isn't always obvious.

JonnyC

iTrader: (19)

It is quite funny how simple the PCV system is and we can't seem to come to a consensus.

Instead of having to read your blog, you can just say that you are going with a completely open system. Props for pointing out that the driver's side breather can be enlarged - I thought it was ~5/8" in diameter all of the way through. But I agree with go-fast that you should have something (road draft) to help pull blowby out of the cc.

Like I said before, some people like to apply vacuum to the crankcase - either vacuum on all ports (to actually create a vacuum condition in the cc), or at least to pull fresh air through one side. These "meaningless check valves" are used by people who wish to have vacuum applied to the cc under low-load conditions (not in boost) - at least something to help extract blowby out of the cc.

I would personally want vacuum in my cc at all times. However, short of a vacuum pump, keeping the PCV hooked up to the plenum with a check valve is the next best solution. Like rcdash said, it would also be nice to hook up the driver's side to a turbo/sc intake to help pull blowby out under boost - despite the very low vacuum provided by an turbo/sc intake.

Regardless of the setup, it seems like most F/I people should enlarge the hole in the driver's side breather.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

The PCV valve works as advertised. There is no need for a check valve.

A vaccum pump is not needed. High pressure will seak low pressure. Give the high pressure air somewhere to vent and it will.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Is it possible to remove the PCV with the valve cover still on? Looks like is screws down onto the cover? Can you please confirm. Thanks.

doug

iTrader: (5)

it screws into the valve cover.. yeah you can remove it without removing the valve cover.. just have to remove the hose.. then you can screw it out with a socket wrench

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Awesome news. Thanks. That makes doing this mod much more simple.

From what I gathered...
Just pop off the hose leading to the pcv, unscrew the pcv with ratchet & socket, pull it out and modify it to a full free flowing port. Re-install new and improved pcv valve and add a hose leading to a Catch can that has a filtered opening instead of a return hose. Finally you can cap off the return port to the lower plenum.
Did I miss anything?

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (4)

You could do all that...the only problem is now when you are in vacuum you aren't pulling air through the crankcase. Based on what I've gathered on here, I would go the route of enlarging the DRIVER'S side breather by drilling it out before and see how that works before you completely eliminate the PCV system.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Is this because the port on the driver side is deceptively large but the internal diameter is much smaller than it appears?

So when you say drill it out, you mean to drill it to open it to its actual size to facilitate more air into the valve cover/cc?

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

Drilling it out wouldn't be the first thing I would do as it is the most labor intensive since you have to remove the valve cover. And it is to let the CC vent out not in. The problem is venting under boost.

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (4)

Yes, it's smaller inside. It's to facilitate more CC pressure OUT during boost.

BriGuyMax

iTrader: (4)

That's your opinion. The PCV system is there for a reason (to suck CC gases out during vacuum).

Yes the problem IS venting under boost, which is exactly why opening up the driver's side breather would help flow more pressure OUT into the pre-boost intake or to atmosphere. It's a good way to keep the PCV system while venting more during boost.

JETPILOT

iTrader: (51)

It's there for emissions pure and simple. Nothing more.