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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:45 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by nightcrawler_8
Started the engine

the car runs fine. no weird sounds, although i can smell a lot of weird smell ( i know the breaking in time for all the parts )

Issue, there will always be issues on the way...

1) Car Idle on 1400 ~ 1600 RPM.
2) SLIP light is ON.
3) VDC light ON.
4) when trying to connect the ECU to the scanning system to get Error code, it doesn't give any signals :S i cant understand why!!!

No check Engine so far ...
Goodto see positive progress. In for the final posting for sure..
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #62  
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One of the last steps in the APS directions is to reset the throttle position sensor prior to starting the car. Did you do that?

Found it on the website for you:

4. ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION / BUTTERFLY VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING

This must be performed whenever the harness connector to the “Drive By Wire” butterfly assembly or stock computer has been unplugged. This is a standard Nissan requirement.



4.1 Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.

4.2 Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position and wait at least two seconds.

4.3 Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position and wait at least ten seconds.

4.4 Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position and wait at least two seconds.

4.5 Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position and wait at least 10 seconds.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:58 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
One of the last steps in the APS directions is to reset the throttle position sensor prior to starting the car. Did you do that?

Found it on the website for you:

4. ACCELERATOR PEDAL RELEASED POSITION / BUTTERFLY VALVE CLOSED POSITION LEARNING

This must be performed whenever the harness connector to the “Drive By Wire” butterfly assembly or stock computer has been unplugged. This is a standard Nissan requirement.



4.1 Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.

4.2 Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position and wait at least two seconds.

4.3 Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position and wait at least ten seconds.

4.4 Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position and wait at least two seconds.

4.5 Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position and wait at least 10 seconds.
already did this....
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:03 AM
  #64  
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are you in limp mode? will the car rev past 2k?
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:05 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
are you in limp mode? will the car rev past 2k?
yep the car run very fine.

went for a test drive and its soooo smooth.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 09:16 AM
  #66  
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Try cycling the key from the on position (just before start) to off 3 times in 10 seconds. If that doesn't do it I'm out of ideas....sorry.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 11:01 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Cass007
Try cycling the key from the on position (just before start) to off 3 times in 10 seconds. If that doesn't do it I'm out of ideas....sorry.
thanks buddy, appreciate ur input

will try it again tomorrow and will let u know.

thanks again.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 02:18 PM
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idle is a little high(but mine is around there on cold start ups and drops to 1k when warmed up), did you check the steering angle sensor, alot of people have that issue and i *think* it results in slip/vdc light
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:55 AM
  #69  
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thanks for the input terps.


new update:

1) i tried one more time the throttle position sensor setting. and now the Idle is around 1100 to 1200 RP M.

2) SLIP and VDC come on when i turn the steering wheel to the right ( when i reach almost the max ) , if i turn it to the left no Slip/VDC. if i go straight no SLIP/VDC . only when i turn max right i get the VDC/SLip ON....

Double checked all the steering components and everything seems perfect, i have changed the lower arm for both sides and my installer suggested that we can try to do wheel and steering alignment first then check if the lights goes OFF.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:02 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by nightcrawler_8
thanks for the input terps.


new update:

1) i tried one more time the throttle position sensor setting. and now the Idle is around 1100 to 1200 RP M.

2) SLIP and VDC come on when i turn the steering wheel to the right ( when i reach almost the max ) , if i turn it to the left no Slip/VDC. if i go straight no SLIP/VDC . only when i turn max right i get the VDC/SLip ON....

Double checked all the steering components and everything seems perfect, i have changed the lower arm for both sides and my installer suggested that we can try to do wheel and steering alignment first then check if the lights goes OFF.

The slip and vdc light are due to disconnecting the steering knuckle when the shop pulled the motor. They did not reinstall/reconnect it in the exact same position it was in.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 06:01 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by Zivman
The slip and vdc light are due to disconnecting the steering knuckle when the shop pulled the motor. They did not reinstall/reconnect it in the exact same position it was in.
To fix it we need to remove it and place it right again ???

or an alignment can be done ???

Last edited by nightcrawler_8; Dec 24, 2008 at 06:04 AM.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:10 AM
  #72  
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Yeah your steering angle sensor is reading to much angle. From the sounds of it the wheel got turned a full turn to the right then reinstalled. You'll probably need to pull linkage back off the rack and spin the wheel to the left. That should fix your problem.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:27 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by nightcrawler_8
To fix it we need to remove it and place it right again ???

or an alignment can be done ???
An alignment won't fix the issue. You need to pull the knuckle and get it back in its orginal position. This can be hard to do without a marking from before it was originally separated. is your steering wheel noticably off? If it isn't, it is probably only a notch or two out of position
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:54 AM
  #74  
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Great advice in this thread for nightcrawler....GL and the above is most definitely your issue. These forums are priceless.... from one part of the world to another
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 11:09 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by zman1910
Great advice in this thread for nightcrawler....GL and the above is most definitely your issue. These forums are priceless.... from one part of the world to another
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 08:45 PM
  #76  
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hi guys,,,

First of all thanks all for the support and advices, also i would like to thank SAM@GTM for his great support and efforts with me....

and wont forget Zivman for his great information and tips ,terps,Cass007,Smitty??,leeboyNY,Tig488,thom000001 ... and everyone who helped and comment on this thread .. thank you all.


update:

- i passed all the comments to my installer and he agreed with me on all that, but we still wanted to get a code for that error first( SAM@GTM asked me to get the code before anything ) so i have this friend who works in Nissan workshop and took the car there to get it checked by the Nissan console..


- we hooked the console to the main plug, did a full test ( below) and the result was positive except for the steering angle sensor. and he was nice enough to align it for me and now the VDC/SLIP lights OFF ... no more Christmas tree on my dash board.

shall i consider this issue done or do i have to check something else ?





Last edited by nightcrawler_8; Dec 24, 2008 at 09:40 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #77  
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Seems like you took care of all the issues... Now enjoy!! Are you using the unichip that came with the kit? Base map in that unichip isn't bad at all. I used it for a year without a hiccup, but it will run pretty rich under boost and you will only see about 340~360WHP. If you want about 380~390WHP, you do have to get it tuned. Also, observe your boost reading throughout the RPM ranges for a while and check if it fluctuates too much or drops at high RPM range, listen to my suggestion.. Lastly, for a next few weeks check for any oil leak or loose bolts often.. As parts settle and break in you might get some oil leak or loose bolts.

Tell your shop guys next time they take out an engine from other Zs or Gs, mark the steering column and do NOT touch the steering wheel.

Last edited by leeboyNY; Dec 24, 2008 at 10:01 PM.
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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 10:42 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by leeboyNY
Seems like you took care of all the issues... Now enjoy!! Are you using the unichip that came with the kit? Base map in that unichip isn't bad at all. I used it for a year without a hiccup, but it will run pretty rich under boost and you will only see about 340~360WHP. If you want about 380~390WHP, you do have to get it tuned. Also, observe your boost reading throughout the RPM ranges for a while and check if it fluctuates too much or drops at high RPM range, listen to my suggestion.. Lastly, for a next few weeks check for any oil leak or loose bolts often.. As parts settle and break in you might get some oil leak or loose bolts.

Tell your shop guys next time they take out an engine from other Zs or Gs, mark the steering column and do NOT touch the steering wheel.
i am not pushing the car now.since i have a new clutch and need to break in everything right. i just get it into 1 to 2PSI so that i can enjoy the BOV sound from time to time :P hehe


i have an appoitment on the 5th of JAN for a retune session and hopefully i will get good results.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 04:35 AM
  #79  
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Give it some break-in miles and get used to the power........ then go find a nice porche or exotic and blow its doors off

Remember this phrase: I just got this car a week or so ago, I think its pretty much stock.
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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Cass007
Give it some break-in miles and get used to the power........ then go find a nice porche or exotic and blow its doors off

Remember this phrase: I just got this car a week or so ago, I think its pretty much stock.
will do

hehehe
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