going FI

when i first got teh Z . i thought i wont touch it . and then i got body kit, intake , exhuats ,,,,,, aaaaaaah .. the modding bug bite me soo hard that i couldnt stop...

and here we go again .. this time it was a big bite. and decided to go for APS.

the car is in very well known garage in Dubai ( specialized on VQ engines. ) and he is a freind of mine as well.

List of mods:

NEW:
1) APS single turbo kit.
2) Koyo radiator ( R-type)
3) GTM oil cooler.
4) JWT clutch/Flywheel.
5) Samco hoses.
6) Unichip (will stick with the APS tune till i break in the clutch and the turbo for around 500miles. then i will tune it)
7) 1 step colder spark plugs

edit: (thanks escobar929 for reminding me)

8) STRI boost gauge/
9) AEM A/F ratio
10) am planning to buy feul pressure as well.

already installed mods:
1)UR crank pulley
2)Motordyn plenum spacer ISO thermal,
3)Blitz Nur-spec Y-pipeback.

i dont think am missing anything,, am i ???????

** i will update the thread with pics soon.**

 

DAY 1:

1) Tomie headers OFF ( and sold ) , Stock Headers back in.
2) test pipes / y-pipe off ( pending sale :P ).
3) Injen intake OFF.
4) Stock radiator OFF.
5) Stock hoses OFF.
6) Stock Clutch/ Flywheel OFF.
7) stock fuel pump OFF.

Pics

i know i need to clean up my engine bay will do after the install for sure.

 

^bro i think i know which shop you're talking about . if you're dubai based then it must be at "eac", al quoz?

good luck with the FI project! It's Good to know there's more and more boosted Z's roaming around the UAE streets.

 

very nice, what bout gauges?

 

thanks for reminding me.. i almost forgot about them.

 

Been there done that.. a few years ago. Got bored with ST, so switched to TT. Anyway, replace the stock actuator with forge actuator, and invest in a good electronic boost controller. APS ST's boost fluctuates and drops a lot because the stock actuator is pretty crappy.

What kind of exhaust system do you have? APS ST is very sensitive to exhaust back pressure. Which means, you are gonna need free flowing exhaust like HKS true dual High Power exhaust (You are gonna have to fabricate a reverse Y-pipe so it can hook up to the APS ST exhaust pipe), APS 2.5" dual exhaust or custom.

Weldon scavenge pump that comes with the ST kit is prone to leak.

Lastly, I recommend you to replace the flex pipe in the crossover pipe with a high quality one. That pipe receive a lot of stress whenever you bottom out and hit the huge exhaust pipe coming out of the turbo. Many of us had leaky/cracked flex pipes and replaced it.

 

a BIG +1 on all of that

Weldon pump failed. Crossover pipe began to leak at the flex portion.

 

the above is good advise. I installed a APS single with the APS exhaust and boost was rock solid on the supplied actuator ~9.5 psi. I didn't notice an issue with scavenge pump, but you have to figure it will need to be replaced at some point. The car did have an issue with the flex pipe after 2 yrs on the road. It might be best to put a higher quality piece in up front as replacing it after the kit is installed is fairly invasive.

My addition to that is to get rid of your UR pulley. It is not worth the risk to your motor

 

i had my flex pipe removed and replaces with a swedged pipe after it broke up and sent metal thru the turbo, be warned it does happen.

good luck with it.

 

D@mn...you beat me to it

 

why ??!!!! whats wrong with the pullies?!!! i never knew it would cause any threat to the engine???

correct me if am wrong.

 

the search still works........


Basically it sends vibrations back into the motor vs absorbing them. Becomes more critical as you push power. Vibrations that can take out your oil pump, or in my case, stress crack the crank itself

 

^it happens only with cheap-**** branded pullies imo. UR rocks.

anyways, here:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...e-pulleys.html

 

Like they said, use a pulley like the 350Z ATI Super Damper Pulley or 350Z Fluidampr Harmonic Balancer instead.

Listen to the advice of others that have been there. Other than that, enjoy your new power!

 

not true... I had the UR and I have the cracked crank to prove it.

 

+1 do some research and you will see. Plus, the HP gain vs. safety is not worth it.

BTW you may want to clean that throttle body while you have everything ripped apart.

 

Day 2:

Progress:

1) Stock fuel pump is replaced with the Walbro feul pump that is supplied with the APS kit.(Pic’s below )
2) The Fuel level indicator will be changed as mine seems to be faulty.
3) Intercooler installed ( pics shows below )
4) JWT clutch/Flywheel is being installed now as I am updating the thread.
5) All intercooler piping should be finished by today.
6) Lower Arm bushing is gone and need to be replaced as well 


Edit: i asked the installer to remove the Ur Crank pulley and install the stock one. ( thanks for the advices )

Pics:

















engine rebuilt for FX35 ( superccharged )









the blue one is JWT twin turbo, red chargspeed waiting for a 4.2 stroker kit .. and same for the black one.

 

Congrats an nice pix... Looks like you're in decent hands man.. Keep the install pics coming..

 

nice work.

just FYI
Depending on what your problem is with the fuel level changing the fuel level unit may not fix it. If its like cars over here, the fuel level is more of a guess than anything lol. Had my fuel level sensor changed 2 times by dealer (both units, they said there were two), fuel gauge acted same everytime.......when fuel light would come on i'd still have between 4 and 10 gallons in the tank HA!

 

my problem is different ..

usually my tank can handle up to 500KM.

so lets say i refill it to "FULL" teh indecator will show full.. but after drivign it for some time.lets say 50KM only... then the light comes on " EMPTY" .. then again goes to middle.. then EMpty ,,, then middle again..

so its acting wierd .. hope it will be solved.