Well I got the exhaust all done. We started putting it on the dyno for tuning Thursday at 8am ran in to a few issues getting the water/methonol injection going. Then we had to get all of the sensors hooked up and we started on a dyno pack so it took some time to get it on there. The tuning when well everything was going good but the wastgates were opening at 10psi even though they were supposed to be set to 17psi and I didn't have my electronic boost controlled wired in( i thought 17psi would be good for now) so I ended up running a manual boost controler and we were back in buisness. The dyno pack was only good for 500ft/lbs of torque and we were maxing that out at 4000rpm. So we switched to the Mustang dyno to finish the tuning we tuned it to 7000rpm and noticed the cosworth intake seemed to leaking we tryed some meth/water and it pissed out of the cozi every where turns out the bolts on the CF caps had backed out and I couldn't get them to seal again so I will have to pull it apart and reseal it anyway that ended our dyno tuning night it was about 2am (had several other issues that slowed us down that I won't go into mostly the builders fault.....ME). So we did some road tuning for drivability then i took it for a few pulls on along straight away it was insane by 4000rpm it was crazy at 6000rpm the tires were breaking loose. I was a little scared its quite a jump from the 400whp I had and I havent drove that for over a year now.

 

WOW, I hope its something simple, please let me know what it was ASAP since we are running the ViPEC and its new. Best of luck sorting out the issues.

 

The Vi-PEC was awsome the drivability was great and the tuning went well other than issues with the meth kit and I kept my Evap lines and they pressured up the fuel tank. I think it was either heat related or a mechanical issue cause by the heat the engine is sleeved and the under hood temps when it quit running were high. The fans were running I could hear them before it stalled but they were just the stock fans I had planned on GTM ones this winter.

 

Metal on metal sound while idling? That doesn't sound good. How low did the coolant get? All temps normal the entire time? I would check coolant and oil for contamination.

The evap solenoid would have to fail in order for manifold pressure to get back into the fuel tank. The stock ECU should still be controlling that solenoid and it should open only when a lean condition occurs, usually at idle (under vacuum). I'm not sure if the MAF signal needs to be valid for that to happen - would have to check the FSM. Do you have a MAF still?

 

Hope its nothing major. Good luck!!

 

No MAF any more. I unhooked the evap system now and it seemed to be fine prior to the failure.

i am taking a few days off from the car, before taking the timing cover off and finding out for sure. i feel like I have worked all summer at this car I am starting to get sick of it.

 

I got the front end tore of the car today and the timing cover off.

 

Glad to hear you found the issue and it didn't destroy things. Hopefully you can fix this and then get to enjoying the car for the rest of the fall.

 

Gord, are you wrenching on Friday night at Lightspeed?

 

I thinks so, Dustin might come down as well. I think i am taking tonught off them maybe do some wrenching Friday night. Hopefully nothing is broke and the bolt just backed out and I am praying for no bent valves

 

I will be at Gull Lake again this weekend, should actually get there Friday by 4:00pm. I will try to stop by at Lightspeed.

 

I usually get there around 5-6pm once the mechanics are done for the day.

 

Gord....Told you those turbo's were craZZy !! Keep us updated about what went wrong.

 

They are nuts! We were making crazy power(not to the big boys) but alot of power for the conserative tune we did thanks again Mike.

 

Well i took a bit of break from the car for my sanity and my wife and kids needed some QT since the majority of my evenings and weekends this summer have been spent wrenching.

 

Never seen that before - thanks for sharing. Did Jim Wolf consider the possibility of a manufacturing defect?

 

ahh you shoulda went with a more aggro cam, like a BC stage 3!

 

Str8dum might be right I should have maybe went more aggressive but Jim has been very helpful and gave me a decent deal and we had them overnight shipped. I try to avoid anything BC makes i had a friend with a BC SR20 stroker kit that was a disaster and BC showed 0 support, I don't need to give my money to companies like that maybe I should have went with JWT C8s.

 

good plan about replacing all the cams. Way too much hassle to have do it twice.

C2s are pretty standard upgrade. Thats what is in my motor as well. Had I had more money laying around I prolly woulda went more aggro myself and prolly shoulda billet girdled the block when it was apart, but too late now!

 

I had the C2s and I love them. They perform admirably. Had I stayed with a 3.5L motor I would have kept them. I'm going to GTM 4.0L, so I felt like I need more lift. So, I sold the C2s and purchased the JWT C8s (12 mm lift), which should be here next week. I may sacrifice some idle smoothness due to the increased duration and intake/exhaust overlap. We'll see. When I have it running I'll post a clip of my car idling. The GTM short block should be shipping this month, so hopefully before Christmas.

As I always note when talking about cams, the JWT cams are good until about 7500 rpm. If you want to push your rpms beyond that, you may need something with a little less lift to avoid valve float. The GTM cams have less lift, and thus may be better for higher rpm use. I have been told that the GTM cams also provide a relatively smoot idle, though I have not yet used them.