Running the New Vi-PEC EMS for my build.
10-22-2009 | 07:15 AM
#161
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
Sorry to hear that. Thats why im spending the extra money and going with the HKS gasket. Do you think going to the 1/2 ARP mains had a role in it? Wasnt there an issue awhile back with them and thats why uts just recommended to stay with standard size head studs (L19, etc..)? Has there been any HKS Gasket failures to date?
HKS dosent make 100mm bore head gaskets or I would be getting them,
I may have to look into it i have a friend that owns a machine shop. i heard the Cometics fail due to the method they are cut, so if my friend could cut the HKS to 100mm I wouldn't know if it would work till I had it back in the car and running some boost again.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 10-22-2009 at 08:10 AM. Reason: corrected some info
10-22-2009 | 07:36 AM
#162
Quitting is NOT an option!!
I stuck it out Gord, and I expect you to do the same. You will get the issues sorted out and be good to go by the spring. At least with winter coming you will be able to work at a much more relaxed pace and not feel rushed to get the car on the road.
I stuck it out Gord, and I expect you to do the same. You will get the issues sorted out and be good to go by the spring. At least with winter coming you will be able to work at a much more relaxed pace and not feel rushed to get the car on the road.
10-22-2009 | 07:42 AM
#163
******updated build list and pictures on page 6************
Hi guys I am in the midst of a build when it came to engine managment I decided to go a different route than most.
I decided with the Vi-PEC V88 with the help of my tuner. l live in Canada and am fortunate enough to live close to a top notch tuner and shop, Cam at Lightspeed Innovations is a very knowledgable guy he dosent see alot of G/Zs but he has a few to his credit and has installed alot of Vi-PECs. The V88 has tons of nice features and it will run the drive by wire on its own without using the factory ECU as a piggy back. I am not really versed on all of the features but dual fuel tables,flat shift, launch control, anti lag, it will control water/meth injection and close loop wide band were a few that seemed like good features to me.
So far we have the car running with the Vi-PEC and it is running the drive by wire flawlessly. I am doing a build over the next few weeks we wanted to get the Vi-PEC in and running before we went to pulling the engine and changing out the complete fuel system due to this being the first G/Z running this system I was not 100% sure it would even work(my tuner was more confident than me) they had a few hiccups but it works great now. I think it will be availible as a plug and play unit for our cars in the near future as Lightspeed built a plug and play harness for my car that I belive they will continue to build them for Vi-PEC. I payed under $2300USD for the V88 which I thought was decent for the amount of features it had. I am very excited to get my build going now that we have the EMS all worked out. I will keep you guys posted on the progress it looks like we have a new option for enginemanagment I think Cass007 will be using the same unit so we will have a couple cars to see how well this system performs.
My build will have:
The Vi-PEC V88
CJM twin 255lph fuel pump setup with return
HKS 1000cc injectors
Aquamist meth/water injection(possibly direct injected)
Ported and polished heads
Ferrea 1mm over size valve train
JWT S1 cams
Cosworth Intake
1/2" ARP head studs with cometic head gasket
Aris XD pistons
Pauter rods
Nismo thermos stat
Pathfinder cooling mod
Nismo super copper mix twin plate clutch
3.3 rear with Quaife LSD
DSS level 5 axles bars with level 2 inner and outer CVs
The turbos are still up in the air I have the JWT 530kit now. I am not sure if I should run the 700bb or the 850bbs
.
Anything I missed or additional things you guys recommend (I ommitted alot of the little things that I do have oil pump ect ect)
Thanks for your time guys:
Gord
Hi guys I am in the midst of a build when it came to engine managment I decided to go a different route than most.
I decided with the Vi-PEC V88 with the help of my tuner. l live in Canada and am fortunate enough to live close to a top notch tuner and shop, Cam at Lightspeed Innovations is a very knowledgable guy he dosent see alot of G/Zs but he has a few to his credit and has installed alot of Vi-PECs. The V88 has tons of nice features and it will run the drive by wire on its own without using the factory ECU as a piggy back. I am not really versed on all of the features but dual fuel tables,flat shift, launch control, anti lag, it will control water/meth injection and close loop wide band were a few that seemed like good features to me.
So far we have the car running with the Vi-PEC and it is running the drive by wire flawlessly. I am doing a build over the next few weeks we wanted to get the Vi-PEC in and running before we went to pulling the engine and changing out the complete fuel system due to this being the first G/Z running this system I was not 100% sure it would even work(my tuner was more confident than me) they had a few hiccups but it works great now. I think it will be availible as a plug and play unit for our cars in the near future as Lightspeed built a plug and play harness for my car that I belive they will continue to build them for Vi-PEC. I payed under $2300USD for the V88 which I thought was decent for the amount of features it had. I am very excited to get my build going now that we have the EMS all worked out. I will keep you guys posted on the progress it looks like we have a new option for enginemanagment I think Cass007 will be using the same unit so we will have a couple cars to see how well this system performs.
My build will have:
The Vi-PEC V88
CJM twin 255lph fuel pump setup with return
HKS 1000cc injectors
Aquamist meth/water injection(possibly direct injected)
Ported and polished heads
Ferrea 1mm over size valve train
JWT S1 cams
Cosworth Intake
1/2" ARP head studs with cometic head gasket
Aris XD pistons
Pauter rods
Nismo thermos stat
Pathfinder cooling mod
Nismo super copper mix twin plate clutch
3.3 rear with Quaife LSD
DSS level 5 axles bars with level 2 inner and outer CVs
The turbos are still up in the air I have the JWT 530kit now. I am not sure if I should run the 700bb or the 850bbs
.Anything I missed or additional things you guys recommend (I ommitted alot of the little things that I do have oil pump ect ect)
Thanks for your time guys:
Gord
10-22-2009 | 08:03 AM
#165
Besides, the L19 head studs have proved themselves to be good for our builds.
EDIT: I did not find the thread. But from what I remember, the OP poured all kinds of money into his motor to do everything just right, and it all went south because the machining on the block to accept the 1/2" head studs was not performed properly. It might be in this forum or the G35driver forum, I don't remember.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 10-22-2009 at 08:18 AM.
10-28-2009 | 07:01 PM
#166
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
I hope the engine is coming out Friday, i planned for Friday night/Saturday night then I remembered it is halloween so i have to take the kids out trick or treating. I have been slammed at work (not my usual 4hr days 
) so i hope I can get it out Friday night and have everything cleaned up Sunday night. I use a friends shop so it needs to clean before his mechanics are in Monday.
I am tearing the engine right down if the block can be saved it will be and I will use cosworth head gaskets this time. I even if it just looks like a head gasket issue I think I am still going to tear it down and rebuild it I just have no confidence in it. I will rebuild it and try to max out the 850bbs next year. there are so many things I want to do but my budget is more than shot on this build but I think I am going to ceramic coat the manis, down pipes and maybe the hot sides. I would also like to ditch all of the rubber coolant/oil feed lines for steel braided and AN fittings. Does anyone know when the oil restrictors are and what size they are for the oil feed lines on the JWT kit? Thats one thing I will have to add if I do decide to go with steel braided lines. Last week I was very close to parting it out but a few friends have talked me out of it but if the block is NFG a part out still might happen.
) so i hope I can get it out Friday night and have everything cleaned up Sunday night. I use a friends shop so it needs to clean before his mechanics are in Monday.I am tearing the engine right down if the block can be saved it will be and I will use cosworth head gaskets this time. I even if it just looks like a head gasket issue I think I am still going to tear it down and rebuild it I just have no confidence in it. I will rebuild it and try to max out the 850bbs next year. there are so many things I want to do but my budget is more than shot on this build but I think I am going to ceramic coat the manis, down pipes and maybe the hot sides. I would also like to ditch all of the rubber coolant/oil feed lines for steel braided and AN fittings. Does anyone know when the oil restrictors are and what size they are for the oil feed lines on the JWT kit? Thats one thing I will have to add if I do decide to go with steel braided lines. Last week I was very close to parting it out but a few friends have talked me out of it but if the block is NFG a part out still might happen.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 10-28-2009 at 07:03 PM.
10-28-2009 | 07:10 PM
#167
your oil lines are not steel braided currently? Odd as i thought every kit used steel lines. Some are -3an and some are -4an/ really depends on what npt to an fitting you use on the turbo.
10-28-2009 | 07:19 PM
#168
Damn, I really don't know what to say. It's really painful reading about all of the troubles you've had with this build. I can only imagine the level of frustration you are feeling right about now.
As stated previously, just take a step back, focus on things OTHER than the car, and come back to it in a week or two with a fresh perspective.
I may have missed it, but who machined your heads for the 1/2" studs?
As stated previously, just take a step back, focus on things OTHER than the car, and come back to it in a week or two with a fresh perspective.
I may have missed it, but who machined your heads for the 1/2" studs?
10-28-2009 | 09:18 PM
#169
The oil restrictor is located near the stock oil pressure sensor port. There is a special T-junction as I recall that has the hard oil feed line coming off it and the restrictor is part of those fittings. It's in the JWT install manual. The return lines for the JWT kit are these thick cloth wrapped lines. Kind of dirty looking, but they seem solid enough. I don't think the manual gave the size of the oil restrictor, but I'm not sure. It can be downloaded from the Jim Wolf website if you want to confirm. I don't know if the 850bb turbos change out that restrictor for a larger one than my tuner kit (700bb). Might want to call JWT and ask Jim or Clark.
Last edited by rcdash; 10-28-2009 at 09:20 PM.
10-28-2009 | 10:16 PM
#170
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
The oil restrictor is located near the stock oil pressure sensor port. There is a special T-junction as I recall that has the hard oil feed line coming off it and the restrictor is part of those fittings. It's in the JWT install manual. The return lines for the JWT kit are these thick cloth wrapped lines. Kind of dirty looking, but they seem solid enough. I don't think the manual gave the size of the oil restrictor, but I'm not sure. It can be downloaded from the Jim Wolf website if you want to confirm. I don't know if the 850bb turbos change out that restrictor for a larger one than my tuner kit (700bb). Might want to call JWT and ask Jim or Clark.
The returns do seem good I don't think I have had any leaks from them, not that the feeds have leaked a ton but I did have to get under the car a couple times to tighten them. I suppose in my mind the SS lines just seem like a better way to go
. I will have to look into the restrictor more, I have never spoke with Clark I might have to try him, I use a company cell phone they would $hit a brick if I had a conversation with Jim on the companys dime.Most of my issues have been self induced, I think thats the only reason I am still hanging in I know alot of the issues could have been avoided if it was all done right the first time...like no used motor. I think I would have had minimal grief if i went with an S1 long block. It would have been a few small leaks hear and there track them down and I would have been driving the $hit out of my car the last few months of summer. However I have learned an awful lot about my car and thats why I started working on it myself in the first place.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 10-28-2009 at 10:23 PM.
10-29-2009 | 05:22 AM
#171
Nice to hear you are sticking with it Gord. I hope it all works out for you and I'm in for all the progress and updates. Keep your head up brother, and remember that you have all winter now and a little alcohol along the way never hurts.
10-29-2009 | 10:37 AM
#172
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
Its $hitty when I am busy. In the spring summer I often don't work for 3-4 months (still paid salary)at a time and when I do work in the summer its only 4hrs a day. Thats how I had the time to build this thing in the first place. I hope the need for boozing is behind me anyway. I will either talk to Forged or GTM about a new block with 100mm sleaves or build my stock block .20 over and buy new pistons what ever ends up being cheaper. If my heads are warped I might just shoot myself at that point
. I won't know what I am doing or make any harsh desisions till I get the motor out and have a look at the block and heads, I hope to have the motor out this weekend and if I can find the time I will pull the heads off next week. I have to be careful not to get to involved in the car at this point or I will be sleeping in it and its about 20deg F out side right now so that would suck
10-29-2009 | 08:25 PM
#173
No, I wouldn't risk it. It's just one more thing that could go wrong... I'll try to find the thread I mentioned.
Besides, the L19 head studs have proved themselves to be good for our builds.
EDIT: I did not find the thread. But from what I remember, the OP poured all kinds of money into his motor to do everything just right, and it all went south because the machining on the block to accept the 1/2" head studs was not performed properly. It might be in this forum or the G35driver forum, I don't remember.
Besides, the L19 head studs have proved themselves to be good for our builds.
EDIT: I did not find the thread. But from what I remember, the OP poured all kinds of money into his motor to do everything just right, and it all went south because the machining on the block to accept the 1/2" head studs was not performed properly. It might be in this forum or the G35driver forum, I don't remember.
10-30-2009 | 02:31 AM
#176
^^^^
Gord, there was another guy here in the forum having a head lift issue with ARP 1/2" studs, maybe about 2 years ago. I think that issue was that the machining to expand the threaded holes in the block was not performed properly. (I hope that is not who you bought your motor from). It might be worth having that particular issue checked on your block before putting the new head gaskets in.
Gord, there was another guy here in the forum having a head lift issue with ARP 1/2" studs, maybe about 2 years ago. I think that issue was that the machining to expand the threaded holes in the block was not performed properly. (I hope that is not who you bought your motor from). It might be worth having that particular issue checked on your block before putting the new head gaskets in.
10-30-2009 | 10:25 AM
#177
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
^^^^
Gord, there was another guy here in the forum having a head lift issue with ARP 1/2" studs, maybe about 2 years ago. I think that issue was that the machining to expand the threaded holes in the block was not performed properly. (I hope that is not who you bought your motor from). It might be worth having that particular issue checked on your block before putting the new head gaskets in.
Gord, there was another guy here in the forum having a head lift issue with ARP 1/2" studs, maybe about 2 years ago. I think that issue was that the machining to expand the threaded holes in the block was not performed properly. (I hope that is not who you bought your motor from). It might be worth having that particular issue checked on your block before putting the new head gaskets in.
Thanks Terry, I will have a look at the head studs and inserts. The engine I bought had about 1500miles on it and the guy never put more than 5psi to it. I searched all of his posts and his story seemed to check out he parted out his entire car back to stock. It baffels me why it lifted when it did, it was tuned at 18-19psi up to 7000rpm with the S1 cams and I had no head lift issues. We were retuning with the C2 cams at 4500rpms same boost when they lifted
we were actually make less power than the last tune at 4500rpm (cams moved the power band) I would understand is we had more boost or more power at a higher rpm. The only other thing is I was not using Evans water less coolant and I also had my OEM rad (it was cold out 40deg F so i wasnt that worried about heat) in for this tune so maybe I got a hot spot in the head. This time I will have my PWR rad in and the proper coolant as well as Cosworth HG maybe it will be the winning combo.When i get the engine out I will have lots of time to go over things so i am going to make sure things look good. It is tempting to just put cosworth head gaskets on as well as the other changes and give it a try. I am going to see if the cause is actually a dropped sleeve and look at all other possibilites before putting the engine back in the car.
10-30-2009 | 02:32 PM
#178
Gord - any idea on the method used to sleeve the block. When I went to Justice, they said they use a heating method similar to what is done with 3-piece wheels, not just pressing them in place.
BTW, Jim has a sleeved bottom end at a great price right now, let me know if you want more info or are interested.
BTW, Jim has a sleeved bottom end at a great price right now, let me know if you want more info or are interested.
10-30-2009 | 06:41 PM
#179
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
Gord - any idea on the method used to sleeve the block. When I went to Justice, they said they use a heating method similar to what is done with 3-piece wheels, not just pressing them in place.
BTW, Jim has a sleeved bottom end at a great price right now, let me know if you want more info or are interested.
BTW, Jim has a sleeved bottom end at a great price right now, let me know if you want more info or are interested.
I dont know much about the block? What size bore is the one Jim has? I need 100mm and would be very interested if it is that size bore machined to accept 1/2"head studs.
Last edited by Sylvan Lake V35; 10-30-2009 at 06:42 PM.
10-31-2009 | 07:26 PM
#180
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,108
Likes: 1
From: Alberta Canada
Well red35 (Dustin) and I pulled the engine last night. We started about 6:30 or 7pm we had the engine out before Midnight and we had a pizza break. We are getting fast.....however I am not sure if thats a good thing or not. My wife thought i was putting my stock engine back in
. Then she asked if it was going to cost $20,000 to fix but she didn't bat an eye when I said only $4-5,000
i might end up with Forged S1 short block after all 
(I heard they go good with 850bbs) I am not giving up on the 3.8L yet though. I will hopefully have time to tear the heads off this week and see what is up.
. My wife thought i was putting my stock engine back in. Then she asked if it was going to cost $20,000 to fix but she didn't bat an eye when I said only $4-5,000 i might end up with Forged S1 short block after all (I heard they go good with 850bbs) I am not giving up on the 3.8L yet though. I will hopefully have time to tear the heads off this week and see what is up.