what do you think I need for making high hp?
09-08-2009, 12:14 PM
#42
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09-08-2009, 02:18 PM
#43
That's sick numbers!!! and gona look awesome and I think work great w/those tires.
That is a serios setup!!! I also plan to do a swirl for fuel. It's funny that a walbro in-tank is enough though, but I know that it works. And the meth setup is so sweet, fail safe. I don't know if haltech can do such magic as your f-con, but it would be great.
One other idea I'm might use is to have one fuel cell with E85(ethanol) to use on track ony and use pump gas (and meth) on road.
That is a serios setup!!! I also plan to do a swirl for fuel. It's funny that a walbro in-tank is enough though, but I know that it works. And the meth setup is so sweet, fail safe. I don't know if haltech can do such magic as your f-con, but it would be great.
One other idea I'm might use is to have one fuel cell with E85(ethanol) to use on track ony and use pump gas (and meth) on road.
The SX fuel pump is tasked with handling the fuel flow to the rails at the required pressure. I'll probably be running around 43 psi. At that pressure, it will provide more than enough fuel flow. I think it is rated for 1000+ hp, which is more than I am shooting for.
I don't know haltechs that much, but it should have an input to allow you to automatically change maps. I use the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller to control the meth system. It is fairly inexpensive and extremely versatile. In fact, if I went with a NOS system (though I don't think I will need to
), I would use the Coolingmist controller to control that as well.EDIT: CORRECTION, the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller is $159.95. imo, it is very inexpensive for the features it provides.
Here is the link: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1099
EDIT EDIT: The new Vari-Cool II and CMGS controllers also look very nice. One of them would replace the Vari-Cool controller at the lower right of my drawing. Here is a link to the full kit with the CMGS Controller: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...pid=cmgsstage3 (I like that the CMGS controller fits into a standard 52mm gauge pod.
)If you look at the drawing, I have identified the wires that go to the F-CON. I assume you can run the same wires to the Haltech. I haven't played with the Haltech, but considering its popularity and the comments I have seen about it, I would be very surprised if it would not allow you to trigger map changes with an external source.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-08-2009 at 03:21 PM.
09-08-2009, 05:40 PM
#45
str8dum1, do you already have a controller? If not, maybe and can cut you an awsome deal on the one I have. Also, I have an extra pump that was barely used. It is rated for water, water/meth, or straight meth (many are only rated up to a 50/50 ratio). I may even have an extra tank laying around. Let me know.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-08-2009 at 05:43 PM.
09-08-2009, 05:57 PM
#46
with my supercharger, the utec is just fine as my controller, but I am thinking that for a new turbo setup, I want a 2D based controller at least. esp if am going to be running like 18+gph worth of nozzles. Do you have a 200 psi pump? My 150psi might not be enough for as much flow as I need. Gotta check shurflo's website for a pressure/flow chart
Last edited by str8dum1; 09-08-2009 at 05:59 PM.
09-08-2009, 06:06 PM
#47
with my supercharger, the utec is just fine as my controller, but I am thinking that for a new turbo setup, I want a 2D based controller at least. esp if am going to be running like 18+gph worth of nozzles. Do you have a 200 psi pump? My 150psi might not be enough for as much flow as I need. Gotta check shurflo's website for a pressure/flow chart
I don't think the pump is 200 psi, though. I'm guessing it is 150 psi. I should be going to Japtrix this week. I'll take a look at it.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-08-2009 at 06:07 PM.
09-08-2009, 07:41 PM
#48
My controller is the previous version of the Vari-Cool. So it definitely will work. It has 2D mapping functionality, e.g., rpm and boost, etc. It even has a hose input so it can monitor the boost. I think I have the instruction manual on it. If you want to see it, PM me your e-mail address and I'll e-mail it to you.
I don't think the pump is 200 psi, though. I'm guessing it is 150 psi. I should be going to Japtrix this week. I'll take a look at it.
I don't think the pump is 200 psi, though. I'm guessing it is 150 psi. I should be going to Japtrix this week. I'll take a look at it.
09-08-2009, 10:21 PM
#50
The one time I got my last build out onto the track, running somewhere around 500 - 550 whp (I had the boost dropped down to 12 psi), my Walbro sucked my stock swirl tank completely dry on a few occasions. This caused me to lean out, not to mention sputter, which caused my engine to get hot. When we pulled that motor apart my piston to cylinder wall clearances were a little too large because the cylinders actually expanded, the worst ones over .002". That is not a desirable situation.
I am using the external swirl tank in addition to the stock swirl tank. That way, if I suck the stock swirl tank dry on a long straight, I'll have reserve fuel in the external swirl tank - It's about 1.6 liters. When I slow down for the turns, the fuel system should have time to completely re-fill both swirl tanks before the next long straight (at least that's the way it is supposed to work.
).
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-08-2009 at 10:40 PM.
09-09-2009, 07:46 AM
#52
For normal street driving where you rarely use the hp, the stock swirl tank with a Walbro and a fuel return system might be fine for 600 whp, although you are starting to get near the limits of a single Walbro.
The one time I got my last build out onto the track, running somewhere around 500 - 550 whp (I had the boost dropped down to 12 psi), my Walbro sucked my stock swirl tank completely dry on a few occasions. This caused me to lean out, not to mention sputter, which caused my engine to get hot. When we pulled that motor apart my piston to cylinder wall clearances were a little too large because the cylinders actually expanded, the worst ones over .002". That is not a desirable situation.
The one time I got my last build out onto the track, running somewhere around 500 - 550 whp (I had the boost dropped down to 12 psi), my Walbro sucked my stock swirl tank completely dry on a few occasions. This caused me to lean out, not to mention sputter, which caused my engine to get hot. When we pulled that motor apart my piston to cylinder wall clearances were a little too large because the cylinders actually expanded, the worst ones over .002". That is not a desirable situation.
Last edited by rcdash; 09-09-2009 at 07:48 AM.
09-09-2009, 12:14 PM
#53
I completely filled the tank before the first session, and again after the second session. I ran into the same issue in each and every session, regardless of fuel tank level.
The reason I beleive that I was sucking the stock swirl tank dry was because it was happening at the end of long straights when I was wide open throttle throughout the straight. My AFR would jump up toward the end of the straight, meaning lack of fuel. I had a CJ Motorsports Stage 2 FRS with a Walbro 255, so that aspect was covered.
When I was really moving through some sections, it would also happen toward the end of a turn, so G forces also were an issue. That's why I put baffles in the external surge tank.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-09-2009 at 03:10 PM.
09-10-2009, 12:00 AM
#54
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Yes, the Walbro is sufficient for the in-tank pump because it is pumping the fuel to the surge tank at very low pressure. The Walbro will pump a lot of fuel with low pressure.
The SX fuel pump is tasked with handling the fuel flow to the rails at the required pressure. I'll probably be running around 43 psi. At that pressure, it will provide more than enough fuel flow. I think it is rated for 1000+ hp, which is more than I am shooting for.
I don't know haltechs that much, but it should have an input to allow you to automatically change maps. I use the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller to control the meth system. It is fairly inexpensive and extremely versatile. In fact, if I went with a NOS system (though I don't think I will need to), I would use the Coolingmist controller to control that as well.
EDIT: CORRECTION, the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller is $159.95. imo, it is very inexpensive for the features it provides.
Here is the link: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1099
EDIT EDIT: The new Vari-Cool II and CMGS controllers also look very nice. One of them would replace the Vari-Cool controller at the lower right of my drawing. Here is a link to the full kit with the CMGS Controller: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...pid=cmgsstage3 (I like that the CMGS controller fits into a standard 52mm gauge pod. )
If you look at the drawing, I have identified the wires that go to the F-CON. I assume you can run the same wires to the Haltech. I haven't played with the Haltech, but considering its popularity and the comments I have seen about it, I would be very surprised if it would not allow you to trigger map changes with an external source.
The SX fuel pump is tasked with handling the fuel flow to the rails at the required pressure. I'll probably be running around 43 psi. At that pressure, it will provide more than enough fuel flow. I think it is rated for 1000+ hp, which is more than I am shooting for.
I don't know haltechs that much, but it should have an input to allow you to automatically change maps. I use the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller to control the meth system. It is fairly inexpensive and extremely versatile. In fact, if I went with a NOS system (though I don't think I will need to
), I would use the Coolingmist controller to control that as well.EDIT: CORRECTION, the Coolingmist Smart Injection controller is $159.95. imo, it is very inexpensive for the features it provides.
Here is the link: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=1099
EDIT EDIT: The new Vari-Cool II and CMGS controllers also look very nice. One of them would replace the Vari-Cool controller at the lower right of my drawing. Here is a link to the full kit with the CMGS Controller: http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmai...pid=cmgsstage3 (I like that the CMGS controller fits into a standard 52mm gauge pod.
)If you look at the drawing, I have identified the wires that go to the F-CON. I assume you can run the same wires to the Haltech. I haven't played with the Haltech, but considering its popularity and the comments I have seen about it, I would be very surprised if it would not allow you to trigger map changes with an external source.
I think Haltech can do the same.I'm trying to do some basic research now so I can get the parts and begin in 1-2months. Right now I work around the clock to get the money for it, but I don't have the time or energy to read a lot and learn it all.
I can't say I know exactly what a water/meth injection setup does.
Where did you get the swirl tank?
09-10-2009, 12:59 AM
#55
I had a friend make it. He owns a metal fabrication shop.
09-10-2009, 04:59 AM
#57
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Thanx!
Yes you right, I'll go for water/meth injetion.
I'm also having cams, Cosworth intake, 950cc Deatschwerk fuel incetors, swirl tank, porting and possibly doing the valves and seats.
What about drivetrain? OS Giken or Carbonetic? Better diff?
Yes you right, I'll go for water/meth injetion.
I'm also having cams, Cosworth intake, 950cc Deatschwerk fuel incetors, swirl tank, porting and possibly doing the valves and seats.
What about drivetrain? OS Giken or Carbonetic? Better diff?
09-10-2009, 05:49 AM
#58
Quaife is the best diff period. Fully gear driven with zero binding. Have the gears swapped to the longer 3.3 gears from an auto trans and you are all set there.
Carbonetics has a good reputation, I would say at least a twin disk setup or just get the triple if you want to do it once and just not have to worry about it.
Just a heads up, never post pics of a girl in a build thread or you will derail your thread for sure....... we are easily distracted.
Carbonetics has a good reputation, I would say at least a twin disk setup or just get the triple if you want to do it once and just not have to worry about it.
Just a heads up, never post pics of a girl in a build thread or you will derail your thread for sure....... we are easily distracted.
Last edited by Cass007; 09-10-2009 at 05:51 AM.
09-10-2009, 10:57 AM
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Quaife is the best diff period. Fully gear driven with zero binding. Have the gears swapped to the longer 3.3 gears from an auto trans and you are all set there.
Carbonetics has a good reputation, I would say at least a twin disk setup or just get the triple if you want to do it once and just not have to worry about it.
Just a heads up, never post pics of a girl in a build thread or you will derail your thread for sure....... we are easily distracted.
Carbonetics has a good reputation, I would say at least a twin disk setup or just get the triple if you want to do it once and just not have to worry about it.
Just a heads up, never post pics of a girl in a build thread or you will derail your thread for sure....... we are easily distracted.
Just not sure about how durable they are or if the Carbonetics needs some special treatment
Hehe got it, we're just men
[/QUOTE]Alberto What cams you plan on running OP?[/QUOTE]
Not sure yet. Got to do some more research and thinking
I want both high rpm's and power and that's the problem.