what do you think I need for making high hp?
09-10-2009, 03:41 PM
#61
If you want to run beyond 7500 rpms, look at GTM and BC cams.
If you won't run past 7500 rpms, JWT cams will give you somewhere around 10% more lift. The extra lift is what limits them to about 7500 rpms.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-10-2009 at 07:36 PM.
09-11-2009, 09:09 PM
#62
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09-12-2009, 07:56 AM
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well, I've done nothing except swapped the spark plugs. using ngk iridium 1 step colder
09-12-2009, 08:54 AM
#66
It's not just cam lift that permits high rpm. Cams designed for high rpm have profiles that help to mitigate problems at those speeds. Stock cams have little lift, but you wouldn't run those to 8k rpms! Even if the car made power, those cams weren't designed for those speeds. You'd also risk valve float because of the springs. The supporting springs are key as they apply much greater force than stock to prevent valve float when the cams are moving very fast. The JWT springs are stiffer than stock. The BC springs are significantly stiffer than the JWT. As a side note, the stiffer the springs, the greater the parasitic power loss of the engine.
09-12-2009, 09:01 AM
#67
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don't forget too, to rev above, oh, 8k rpm on these motors you are going to need a billet girdle....the stock girdle can't handle those rpms.
And all the high rpm cars (SP, Injected drag car, Hal's street car), they all rev well above 8K all run the Billet girdle (actually I think all run the same one lol)
tom
And all the high rpm cars (SP, Injected drag car, Hal's street car), they all rev well above 8K all run the Billet girdle (actually I think all run the same one lol)
tom
It's not just cam lift that permits high rpm. Cams designed for high rpm have profiles that help to mitigate problems at those speeds. Stock cams have little lift, but you wouldn't run those to 8k rpms! Even if the car made power, those cams weren't designed for those speeds. You'd also risk valve float because of the springs. The supporting springs are key as they apply much greater force than stock to prevent valve float when the cams are moving very fast. The JWT springs are stiffer than stock. The BC springs are significantly stiffer than the JWT. As a side note, the stiffer the springs, the greater the parasitic power loss of the engine.
09-12-2009, 09:07 AM
#69
Intense ran these for a little while on their widebody shop G. They definitely made power up top, but the car idled like crap. They swapped them out for BC stage 2 cams.
Keep in mind that a cam with a duration that large will push your power curve to the right and will necessitate raising the idle speed for streetability. Personally, I would go with the BC stage 3 cams combined with BC valve springs on a Greddy TT setup. That cam has proven itself in Alberto's setup and it sounds like you're trying to make similar power.
Keep in mind that a cam with a duration that large will push your power curve to the right and will necessitate raising the idle speed for streetability. Personally, I would go with the BC stage 3 cams combined with BC valve springs on a Greddy TT setup. That cam has proven itself in Alberto's setup and it sounds like you're trying to make similar power.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 09-12-2009 at 09:10 AM.
09-12-2009, 10:56 AM
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don't forget too, to rev above, oh, 8k rpm on these motors you are going to need a billet girdle....the stock girdle can't handle those rpms.
And all the high rpm cars (SP, Injected drag car, Hal's street car), they all rev well above 8K all run the Billet girdle (actually I think all run the same one lol)
tom
And all the high rpm cars (SP, Injected drag car, Hal's street car), they all rev well above 8K all run the Billet girdle (actually I think all run the same one lol)
tom
I've been thinking about main bearings too. I use oem's, is there need for a swap?
It's not just cam lift that permits high rpm. Cams designed for high rpm have profiles that help to mitigate problems at those speeds. Stock cams have little lift, but you wouldn't run those to 8k rpms! Even if the car made power, those cams weren't designed for those speeds. You'd also risk valve float because of the springs. The supporting springs are key as they apply much greater force than stock to prevent valve float when the cams are moving very fast. The JWT springs are stiffer than stock. The BC springs are significantly stiffer than the JWT. As a side note, the stiffer the springs, the greater the parasitic power loss of the engine.
I don't since gap shouldn't be changed on the ngk iridium's
Intense ran these for a little while on their widebody shop G. They definitely made power up top, but the car idled like crap. They swapped them out for BC stage 2 cams.
Keep in mind that a cam with a duration that large will push your power curve to the right and will necessitate raising the idle speed for streetability. Personally, I would go with the BC stage 3 cams combined with BC valve springs on a Greddy TT setup. That cam has proven itself in Alberto's setup and it sounds like you're trying to make similar power.
Keep in mind that a cam with a duration that large will push your power curve to the right and will necessitate raising the idle speed for streetability. Personally, I would go with the BC stage 3 cams combined with BC valve springs on a Greddy TT setup. That cam has proven itself in Alberto's setup and it sounds like you're trying to make similar power.
I'd really love to see some dyno charts
I'm looking for more info regarding upgrading turbos as it might be the final thing I need to cure my needs for next season, haha
09-17-2009, 02:51 PM
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I decided to go for the Tomei 280 cams
I'll be trying to machine my own roller rocker
and the 18g's may be upgraded to td06 20g internals
Anyone have any experience w/ the Ferrea +1mm over vales?
I'll be trying to machine my own roller rocker
and the 18g's may be upgraded to td06 20g internals
Anyone have any experience w/ the Ferrea +1mm over vales?
09-17-2009, 08:26 PM
#73
Thanx, looks like I have to get one of those too. Is there some more parts I've overlooked?
I've been thinking about main bearings too. I use oem's, is there need for a swap?
I don't know what those are called in English, but its a rocker arm with roller bearing in the contact to the tappet, is there some one that makes them for the vq35de?
I don't since gap shouldn't be changed on the ngk iridium's
I really don't want power to the right in dyno curve, but as much to the left as possible, the car is intended for track days and fun in the streets
I'd really love to see some dyno charts
I'm looking for more info regarding upgrading turbos as it might be the final thing I need to cure my needs for next season, haha
I've been thinking about main bearings too. I use oem's, is there need for a swap?
I don't know what those are called in English, but its a rocker arm with roller bearing in the contact to the tappet, is there some one that makes them for the vq35de?
I don't since gap shouldn't be changed on the ngk iridium's
I really don't want power to the right in dyno curve, but as much to the left as possible, the car is intended for track days and fun in the streets
I'd really love to see some dyno charts
I'm looking for more info regarding upgrading turbos as it might be the final thing I need to cure my needs for next season, haha
Your posts conflict with each other. Based on what you said in your previous post ^^... Tomei 280 duration cams would not be the best choice for you. You will have to adjust your idle speed and the power curve will be pushed significantly to the right. You are gonna be sacrificing low-midrange power and spool-up for top end power.Unless you changed your mind about what you stated before
, I wouldn't recommend going with anything more agressive than BC stage 2 cams or 264 duration. Sound Performance and Julian (when he had MRC) both have shown that BC stage 2 cams make good top end power to over 7,000RPM without significant sacrifices of midrange power and spool-up.
Last edited by RudeG_v2.0; 09-17-2009 at 08:29 PM.
09-17-2009, 08:36 PM
#74
It's not just cam lift that permits high rpm. Cams designed for high rpm have profiles that help to mitigate problems at those speeds. Stock cams have little lift, but you wouldn't run those to 8k rpms! Even if the car made power, those cams weren't designed for those speeds. You'd also risk valve float because of the springs. The supporting springs are key as they apply much greater force than stock to prevent valve float when the cams are moving very fast. The JWT springs are stiffer than stock. The BC springs are significantly stiffer than the JWT. As a side note, the stiffer the springs, the greater the parasitic power loss of the engine.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-17-2009 at 08:39 PM.
09-17-2009, 09:19 PM
#75
I didn't find the video I was looking for. Anyway, here is some good information on valve spring pressure:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ft_secrets.pdf
This article is well worth reading for anyone looking at purchasing cams or valve springs.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ft_secrets.pdf
This article is well worth reading for anyone looking at purchasing cams or valve springs.
Last edited by ttg35fort; 09-17-2009 at 09:25 PM.
09-17-2009, 09:47 PM
#76
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ONLY USE JWT VALVE SPRINGS ON JWT HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMS (e.g., C2, C8, C9, and maybe some others). The JWT springs are harmonically balanced to work with their cams, which typically have much greater lift than any of the other cams out there with equivalent duration. For example, the C9 cams have 13.11 mm of lift with a 283.5 duration, while the C8 cams have 12.01 mm lift and 272 duration. If you try to use BC valve springs with JWT cams, you might run into problems. I think there is a video on Youtube that shows what happens to valve springs that are not harmonically balanced. If I find the video, I'll post the link.
09-18-2009, 01:10 AM
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Your posts conflict with each other. Based on what you said in your previous post ^^... Tomei 280 duration cams would not be the best choice for you. You will have to adjust your idle speed and the power curve will be pushed significantly to the right. You are gonna be sacrificing low-midrange power and spool-up for top end power.Unless you changed your mind about what you stated before
, I wouldn't recommend going with anything more agressive than BC stage 2 cams or 264 duration. Sound Performance and Julian (when he had MRC) both have shown that BC stage 2 cams make good top end power to over 7,000RPM without significant sacrifices of midrange power and spool-up.I didn't find the video I was looking for. Anyway, here is some good information on valve spring pressure:
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ft_secrets.pdf
This article is well worth reading for anyone looking at purchasing cams or valve springs.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ft_secrets.pdf
This article is well worth reading for anyone looking at purchasing cams or valve springs.
Now I'm into geting a new block, since I found a shop that has huge experience in sleeving. So billet girdle and rear coolant bypass is to be fitted in. in. Guess new fan is needed as well?
Plan to sleeve and put in Carillo rods, what Carillo type do you recommend? And new pistons, Arias extreme (96mm/8.6:1)?
09-18-2009, 04:25 AM
#78
OP-dont sleeve the block for the power an 18G or even 20G Greddy kit will produce you dont need it, and its additional issues that can result from them.
Last edited by Alberto; 09-18-2009 at 04:26 AM.
09-18-2009, 05:18 AM
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Ive been running JWT springs with BC3's for 3000+ miles now. Not a ton of mileage, but thats 1/3 the life of what my first built motor lasted and Im revving higher and making tons more power, and you know Im not easy on my car. So far so good...
OP-dont sleeve the block for the power an 18G or even 20G Greddy kit will produce you dont need it, and its additional issues that can result from them.
OP-dont sleeve the block for the power an 18G or even 20G Greddy kit will produce you dont need it, and its additional issues that can result from them.
edit About sleeves: As I got it the issue is headlift due to sleevs gets loose as result of too much heat and hot spots also due to heat problems or bad cooling chanels, right?
The cure shuld be proper, really tight, tolerances when pressing them in place and do the cooling chanels as Dartons prescribe, rear cooling bypass, good radiators/oil coolers, thermostat and fans as well as Evans NPG+. Did I got that right?
Last edited by 350zzzgunnar; 09-18-2009 at 05:31 AM.