If you want to run beyond 7500 rpms, look at GTM and BC cams.

If you won't run past 7500 rpms, JWT cams will give you somewhere around 10% more lift. The extra lift is what limits them to about 7500 rpms.

 

What about Tomei Cams? They have a 280 Duration w/ a 11.30 Lift

 

Looks like its going to be a crazy build. I have a question, what are you doing for ignition? will the stock ignition be able to handle the power (even your current power) without spark blow out?

 

well, I've done nothing except swapped the spark plugs. using ngk iridium 1 step colder

 

there was some hot spot issues w/ sleeved blocks. I didn't do sleeve. now I'm not sure how much power it can stand. anyone got some facts?

 

It's not just cam lift that permits high rpm. Cams designed for high rpm have profiles that help to mitigate problems at those speeds. Stock cams have little lift, but you wouldn't run those to 8k rpms! Even if the car made power, those cams weren't designed for those speeds. You'd also risk valve float because of the springs. The supporting springs are key as they apply much greater force than stock to prevent valve float when the cams are moving very fast. The JWT springs are stiffer than stock. The BC springs are significantly stiffer than the JWT. As a side note, the stiffer the springs, the greater the parasitic power loss of the engine.

 

don't forget too, to rev above, oh, 8k rpm on these motors you are going to need a billet girdle....the stock girdle can't handle those rpms.

And all the high rpm cars (SP, Injected drag car, Hal's street car), they all rev well above 8K all run the Billet girdle (actually I think all run the same one lol)

tom

 

May I ask, what do you gap your plugs too..?

 

Intense ran these for a little while on their widebody shop G. They definitely made power up top, but the car idled like crap. They swapped them out for BC stage 2 cams.

Keep in mind that a cam with a duration that large will push your power curve to the right and will necessitate raising the idle speed for streetability. Personally, I would go with the BC stage 3 cams combined with BC valve springs on a Greddy TT setup. That cam has proven itself in Alberto's setup and it sounds like you're trying to make similar power.

 

Thanx, looks like I have to get one of those too. Is there some more parts I've overlooked?
I've been thinking about main bearings too. I use oem's, is there need for a swap?

I don't know what those are called in English, but its a rocker arm with roller bearing in the contact to the tappet, is there some one that makes them for the vq35de?

I don't since gap shouldn't be changed on the ngk iridium's

I really don't want power to the right in dyno curve, but as much to the left as possible, the car is intended for track days and fun in the streets
I'd really love to see some dyno charts

I'm looking for more info regarding upgrading turbos as it might be the final thing I need to cure my needs for next season, haha

 

Hey Gurus! I need more posts, please

 

I decided to go for the Tomei 280 cams
I'll be trying to machine my own roller rocker
and the 18g's may be upgraded to td06 20g internals

Anyone have any experience w/ the Ferrea +1mm over vales?

 

Your posts conflict with each other. Based on what you said in your previous post ^^... Tomei 280 duration cams would not be the best choice for you. You will have to adjust your idle speed and the power curve will be pushed significantly to the right. You are gonna be sacrificing low-midrange power and spool-up for top end power.

Unless you changed your mind about what you stated before, I wouldn't recommend going with anything more agressive than BC stage 2 cams or 264 duration. Sound Performance and Julian (when he had MRC) both have shown that BC stage 2 cams make good top end power to over 7,000RPM without significant sacrifices of midrange power and spool-up.

 

ONLY USE JWT VALVE SPRINGS ON JWT HIGH PERFORMANCE CAMS (e.g., C2, C8, C9, and maybe some others). The JWT springs are harmonically balanced to work with their cams, which typically have much greater lift than any of the other cams out there with equivalent duration. For example, the C9 cams have 13.11 mm of lift with a 283.5 duration, while the C8 cams have 12.01 mm lift and 272 duration. If you try to use BC valve springs with JWT cams, you might run into problems. I think there is a video on Youtube that shows what happens to valve springs that are not harmonically balanced. If I find the video, I'll post the link.

 

I didn't find the video I was looking for. Anyway, here is some good information on valve spring pressure:

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...ft_secrets.pdf

This article is well worth reading for anyone looking at purchasing cams or valve springs.

 

I have JWT valve springs and stock cams....I never even thought it could be an issue. I guess I'm f'd if I want to use BC cams without tearing down the motor.

 

Well, yor are probably right. I'll guess I really don't know what to choose and dynos would be a great help.

Thanx you're soooo helpfull

Now I'm into geting a new block, since I found a shop that has huge experience in sleeving. So billet girdle and rear coolant bypass is to be fitted in. in. Guess new fan is needed as well?
Plan to sleeve and put in Carillo rods, what Carillo type do you recommend? And new pistons, Arias extreme (96mm/8.6:1)?

 

Ive been running JWT springs with BC3's for 3000+ miles now. Not a ton of mileage, but thats 1/3 the life of what my first built motor lasted and Im revving higher and making tons more power, and you know Im not easy on my car. So far so good...

OP-dont sleeve the block for the power an 18G or even 20G Greddy kit will produce you dont need it, and its additional issues that can result from them.

 

What will the unsleeved block stand is still the question. And for cams the midrange power...

edit About sleeves: As I got it the issue is headlift due to sleevs gets loose as result of too much heat and hot spots also due to heat problems or bad cooling chanels, right?
The cure shuld be proper, really tight, tolerances when pressing them in place and do the cooling chanels as Dartons prescribe, rear cooling bypass, good radiators/oil coolers, thermostat and fans as well as Evans NPG+. Did I got that right?

 

Good to hear, thanks dude. Might pick me up some BC2s over the winter...