I think you are right.

What alot of people don't realize is that it takes alot of thought and effort to get everything properly matched in a build. When everything is properly matched, power comes easy. When it is not, it is an uphill battle.

 

in that link I posted, the OP has all that and then some. I'm not considering 18g's so kinda a moot point

swaying back to the SFR or SP kit, even though their install is alot more complicated. My car wont be a road course car. Street and dragstrip. Tubular manifolds should be just fine.... There havent been any builds with those kits making lowish HP. The greddy and GTM kits have such a wide spread in power and very unproven high power applications

 

So this should be an easy pick for you...If there is no road racing/autoX/autocross involved ...go with the ones you are considering..SP/SFR... It was an easy pick for me, because I want my car to be strong at all the above listed events.

Tom is happy with his....The MadScientist picked that setup...so i would go with it. As the MadScientist said...its not an easy install....so i would not do a DIY

 

That's more an issue of drivers/tuning.. not the kit. u give a guy a 1000hp kit, but he has a 400hp driving habit its pointless.. lets face it.. the 18gs aren't even being maxed/pushed to its limits. the few guys that push em have that driving mentality. you get people caught up in hp numbers and they don't even have the ***** for a 400hp no matter what kit. i know guys that have built sleeved motors with all the bells/whistle and they are sunday drivers who only like saying they have a built boosted Z (weak sauce). And like said before you gotta have all the right things to support the kit. not to offend anyone here but take a look at what type of driver you are b4 u go and get the ***** out kit when u only have intentions of staying on the porch.

sorry for my rant, but that s**t kills me..........

 

What is your target whp?

FYI, if there was not the potential issue of SS manifolds sagging when used in road racing, or I were not planning on road racing, I probably would have gone with a SFR or SP kit. The header style manifolds will ultimately provide more top end power, but potentially may be a little more laggy. It will be interesting to see what Mike's final torque curve looks like.

 

Yeah....I could agree with this

 

Oh snap.. it's Official..lol...

 

I too have cleared the 600 rwhp range w/20G's at about 19psi (640hp actually on a DD) and a weak-sauce base tune. SO don't forget about me.

...Just waiting to visit Ray at PFS to get some fine tuning and better hp numbers. (I hate waiting)

 

after seeing what they did with Alberto's 18g's, im eagerly waiting with you to see your results with the 20's.

 

+1000

Recently, there are all of these people so concerned about whether this component or that component is good for 1200 hp, but they have no intention of getting anywhere near that level of hp. What too many people wholly fail to comprehend is that just because a particular part is the component of choice for a 1200 hp build does not make that part the best choice for a 600 hp build. For example, a turbo that is good for 1200 hp is going to have a lot more lag than a turbo that is good for 600 hp. A clutch that is good for 1200 hp typically is going to be less street friendly than a clutch designed for less hp, etc., etc.

I'm going for 750 whp, and I chose GT3071 0.64 A/R turbos. The turbine is just about the same size as the Greddy 18G's, and the turbine inlet area is the same, but the compressor is slightly larger. They should be just big enough to get me there, but no more. That way, I am not sacrificing any spool time.

 

I dont care so much for the HP #, but I wanna trap 135+ in the 1/4. To run with the V8's one needs to trap at least that fast.

Based on the top 25 drag times, an average driver in a full weight G35 needs at minimum 750 hp to do that. I run at the strip 4-6 times a month, so thats around 60 passes. I'll use the HP.

My biggest concern is biting off more than I can install/fabricate on jack stands with a motor crane. Some days I feel more daring, and some days that 20g 'drop in like butta' kit is very appealing. Time is no an issue, and welding isnt either, just makes it more of a hassle.

But of course when you talk to SP or SFR, you dont have to cut anything, you might just have to hit with a hammer. Thats fine, I just dont want: 'surprise, this ***** not going to fit'

 

thats gonna be a sweet setup for you. i was considering switching to a new kit w/BB's. but its just not cost effective to build/do a new kit right now. Plus im happy with my greddy kit. only weak link apparently was my motor (ouch).

750hp i must admit is more than i can imagine right now. Thats gonna be a rocket! im so boost deprived right now, that my 3 weak daily drivers are starting to seem fast..lol..

 

+10000

I see intense power did ~700-906whp with simple build and people with sleeves and strokers staying around ~650whp grow some palls people

 

Pick your hp goal, then pick the turbos. Maybe go with the GT3071 0.86 A/R turbos to give you a little more head room up top. Maybe even look at the GT 3076 turbos.

 

I can't wait to see you, and me, back up and running.

 

That makes 4.

 

lol.. 650 is nothing to shake a stick at. i remember there was a time when anything north of 600hp sleeves were recommended so guys got em, i cant blame them for listening to advice at the time. but def sleeves and 500hp range guys giving advice and talking a big game today is FIAL in my book.

 

PM the "MadScientist".....He did the install himself. He said it was not easy but it can be done if you know what you are doing....

 

In the end, I'm not sure changing over to the BB turbos will turn out to be worth it. There were some Greddy failures on the road courses due to temperature issues (they are not water cooled), and it got me paranoid. I didn't want to spend all this time and money getting my build back together, and then have a turbo fail on me 6 months later. In that regard, part of what is taking so long on my build is that I am trying to make sure everything is rock solid. I want to be able to run the car on the track once a month, and I don't want any significant issues popping up. Eventually, I want to finish HPDS and start doing time attacks.

 

Havent seen you post in a while and I now remember why I didnt miss you. Being misinformed, or failing to do something yourself doesnt mean it cant be done Dil

18G's will hit 700whp

Whats funny is the people who try to act like they really pushed their setups and for example want 700whp out of a Greddy kit (18G) arent the ones who want a loud dual 3" exhaust, open dumps, dual or triple fuel pump systems, triple clutches, etc. Skimp on anything, including the TUNING and it just wont happen.

We also have shops out in this community who CLAIM to REALLY push the limits of setups but wont do so even if a customer wants to - or the shops who claim 600+whp stock block G37's but then tell the customer to never set it at that boost level EVER. Why shops do that is another thread.

Everything is a compromise....

AMEN BROTHER!!!