20g potential
I'm gonna try for something up there on sunday....
It'll be cool (50's), if the dxd clutch will give me one clean pass it should be a nice number (will be on tune that it made 650rwhp on 1.5months ago in the high 90 degree weather).....
fingers crossed, but may be asking too much of the clutch at this point.
tom
It'll be cool (50's), if the dxd clutch will give me one clean pass it should be a nice number (will be on tune that it made 650rwhp on 1.5months ago in the high 90 degree weather).....
fingers crossed, but may be asking too much of the clutch at this point.
tom
You have something around 600whp Tom?
Run that it should get you into the 10's without needing to manage the extra power.
I always tell people extract 90% of low boost before you go any higher.
Run that it should get you into the 10's without needing to manage the extra power.
I always tell people extract 90% of low boost before you go any higher.
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From: raleigh-wood NC
i wanna hit the track again this sunday, but I need to find out how many time i can use my AAA 100 mile tow, since i just used it 2 weeks ago from that track when i busted my axle. Just nervous that if i mess up my tranny preload, i'll back on the flatbed.
Dil seems pretty confident that he was maxed out on his 20g's at 650hp. Seems pretty low compared to all the 'math' that has been presented. Maybe more people are tuner limited than kit limited
but i'd rather have a non-ventilated crank case at the end of the day.
this thread hasnt narrowed down my options yet
Dil seems pretty confident that he was maxed out on his 20g's at 650hp. Seems pretty low compared to all the 'math' that has been presented. Maybe more people are tuner limited than kit limited
but i'd rather have a non-ventilated crank case at the end of the day.this thread hasnt narrowed down my options yet
On the same settings I'll be running sunday, it dyno'd 650rwhp on SP's mustang dyno, on a 90-95 degree day with 90% humidity.
Sunday here will be a high of 55degrees and prolly 30% humidity!!!!!!
So power won't be the issue....track prep is pretty good....so like I said, if the clutch will let me shift, then its down to the loose nut behind the wheel
tom
Sunday here will be a high of 55degrees and prolly 30% humidity!!!!!!
So power won't be the issue....track prep is pretty good....so like I said, if the clutch will let me shift, then its down to the loose nut behind the wheel

tom
.lol.. your proof of that
. Im not believing the 20g's max out at 650 either
Twice per year.
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From: raleigh-wood NC
well the year is almost up and prolly one of the last track weekends for me, so might as well hit it.
ill proly still call aaa 1st and make sure someone is around again to drive my beater down to pick up my trailer.
well hopefully XKR can post some numbers soon as that will indicate where we can go from there
ill proly still call aaa 1st and make sure someone is around again to drive my beater down to pick up my trailer.

well hopefully XKR can post some numbers soon as that will indicate where we can go from there
I see folks fell asleep on this thread. I hope to have results today or Monday, as my car sits in Sound Performance getting tuned as we speak.
Built Block, 272 cams, 20G's, +1 valves, Meth, and ProEFI should net some good numbers.
I hope.
Built Block, 272 cams, 20G's, +1 valves, Meth, and ProEFI should net some good numbers.
I hope.
On race gas, I think you should end up well north of 700 whp (assuming you have a clutch that can hanle the torque).
A good friend of mine made ~450awhp on a TD05H 20G in an 8^cm housing on his DSM. He was pushing it pretty hard but I see no reason a pair wouldn't do at least 800WHP on a VQ.
On a sidenote here, in Mitsubishi compressor world, "B" and "C" wheels have blades of all the same height. "G" and "T" wheels use blades of alternating height. This alone makes me question the accuracy of the designations of those compressor wheels.
I would expect to find that the compressors are actually as follows, however, it is impossible to be sure from the picture.
1. 13G
2. 13C
3. 14B
4. Small 16G, as listed
5. Big 16G or 16T
6. 17C
7. 19T
On a sidenote here, in Mitsubishi compressor world, "B" and "C" wheels have blades of all the same height. "G" and "T" wheels use blades of alternating height. This alone makes me question the accuracy of the designations of those compressor wheels.
I would expect to find that the compressors are actually as follows, however, it is impossible to be sure from the picture.
1. 13G
2. 13C
3. 14B
4. Small 16G, as listed
5. Big 16G or 16T
6. 17C
7. 19T
Just sharing my info
My car is an 03 with a complete built long block, sleeves, tomei 268 cams, some head works, open dumps, APS 2.5 TD exhaust, triple carbon plates clutch, crawford plenum(old one), Meth/Water kit, 18G Greddy TT, and Utec. This is on a dynapack. Just purchased the Haltec EMS and will drive down to Hal to get it tune next Spring and trying to squeeze some more power out of the kit.
My car is an 03 with a complete built long block, sleeves, tomei 268 cams, some head works, open dumps, APS 2.5 TD exhaust, triple carbon plates clutch, crawford plenum(old one), Meth/Water kit, 18G Greddy TT, and Utec. This is on a dynapack. Just purchased the Haltec EMS and will drive down to Hal to get it tune next Spring and trying to squeeze some more power out of the kit.
Last edited by Z PHAT Z; Dec 12, 2009 at 09:26 PM.





