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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

My built engine swap

Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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Default My built engine swap

So earlier this year I installed my vortech. Of course I decided I wanted more. I fell into a great deal on a built motor along with heads.

Here is the rundown of the motor:
arias extreme duty 9:1 pistons
pauter rods
arp headstuds
ported heads
ferrera valvetrain
tomei 264 cams

Here are some pictures of my progress. I started yesterday getting things pulled off the motor and today I pulled the stock motor out.

There are way too many sensors and wire connections on this harness! My fingers are so sore I can barely type this out from pushing on those connectors to get them loose.

I had a strap break when I started hoisting the engine/trans out. Thankfully when it came crashing down it didn't hit any of my powersteering lines. Total suck.

I also found that my BPV for my vortech has the adjustment screw broken off. Any suggestions on what to do to replace that would be helpful.

It's a little tight in the garage....had to put the car in there diagonal to make room for the toolbox. lol
Attached Thumbnails My built engine swap-sany1097.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1098.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1100.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1102.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1104.jpg  

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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:50 PM
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Nice build. Should be strong.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 04:53 PM
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more pictures
Attached Thumbnails My built engine swap-sany1109.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1108.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1110.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1113.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1114.jpg  

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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Nice, DIY FTW. You won't have any trouble installing that turbo kit. Good luck.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:11 PM
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Thanks guys!


Ya, the turbo kit will be cake after all this. The vortech was a pain in the butt and probably harder than the turbo kit you have.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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Wish I had the skills... good job!
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 05:14 PM
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you shoulda left the radiator/ac condenser/front brace all as 1 piece


and some advice, dont lift your motor like that. You are really lucky you didnt cause a few g's in damage when that strap broke.

use the 2 bolt on the front of the motor and then 2 of the bell housing bolts.


Here's a clearer shot from from rrmedics DIY

Last edited by str8dum1; Nov 18, 2009 at 05:16 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 06:43 PM
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Best of luck! Congrats on the built motor!
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 04:27 AM
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Very nice, cant wait to see you up and running again.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:01 AM
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Good Luck with SWAP! Double check all of your oil lines to make sure they are sealed properly. You don't want any oil leaks coming from turbo's after everything is installed. PITA.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
you shoulda left the radiator/ac condenser/front brace all as 1 piece
ah, that would have been awsome but i am trying not to open the a/c up. The infiniti dealership i trust is 2 hours away (the closest dealership actually) so i'm trying to save myself a huge setup in charging the a/c properly. It did make some extra work for me but i'll know my a/c is still going to be working perfect when i get it back on.

and some advice, dont lift your motor like that. You are really lucky you didnt cause a few g's in damage when that strap broke.
Ya, i know. I've lifted a few like this and it's not the best way by any means. These motors aren't near as easy to hook onto as the chevys i'm used to. How do you get to those rear bolts with the chain? that was my issue with bolting to them.

use the 2 bolt on the front of the motor and then 2 of the bell housing bolts.


Here's a clearer shot from from rrmedics DIY

Originally Posted by rrmedicx
Good Luck with SWAP! Double check all of your oil lines to make sure they are sealed properly. You don't want any oil leaks coming from turbo's after everything is installed. PITA.
thanks! I'll be using the vortech for the most of this next year probably. I'm planning on putting one of Sasha's (boostedprobe) turbo kits once i get the funds up. I start medical school in January so I can't work the hours I normally do at the hospital. I actually don't think I can keep a job at all with the time required. That will put my build on hold for a few years . Oh well, i'll be content with the supercharger and motor for the time being.

Thanks everyone else for the support!
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:28 AM
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charging the AC is simple and costs 25$ (3 cans of refrigerant at $7) you can borrow the manifold gauges and vacuum pump from autozone for free. its not worth 30$ to risk bending/breaking hundreds of dollars in AC lines. But its already done.

I just attached the L brackets from my balancer right to those bolts. and threaded them right back thru the bellhousing and the motor. it shoulda been obvious when you were pulling the motor out

Last edited by str8dum1; Nov 19, 2009 at 06:31 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
charging the AC is simple and costs 30$. its not worth 30$ to risk bending/breaking hundreds of dollars in AC lines. But its already done.

I just attached the L brackets from my balancer right to those bolts. and threaded them right back thru the bellhousing and the motor.
Having it evac'ed and charged properly definitely isn't 30$ here in this area. I don't trust small repair shops either. The "supposed" leader on a/c here in the area took 3 visits and over 200$ to finally get the a/c working on my truck only to have it fail less than a year later. So ya, i'm reluctant on having it messed with. The dealership will fix their issues if they don't do it right, but that takes a 2 hour 1 way drive for me to head back to them.

So you crawled up from the bottom to get to those bolts? Those were a pita when i took the trans out to change my clutch. I don't know if i could get my hands up there to put a hanger bracket on the bolt.

I guess i could put it on there when re-installing so all i will have to do is remove the bolts from below and let the hangers fall out

str8, do you know anything about replacing the adjustment screw on the BPV? mine oddly is broken off. I can get it out, but i'm not sure what to replace it with or if vortech even offers a replacement. Also, the oring for the BPV goes on the sealing face of the disk. Mine keeps coming off the sealing side and going behind the disk around the shaft. how do you keep that oring on the sealing face inside of the bpv?
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 07:30 AM
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i've done all my cars AC and its simple. draw a vacuum, crack the refrigerant can, turn your AC on high and thats it.

either way... it was easy to get those bellhousing bolts from the top of the motor. theres alot of room. If you didnt take your plenum off, thats might have been why it wasnt so easy.

if your o-ring is moving, thats a surefire way to get a mess up tune. My 1st BPV did that. Sent it back and they sent me a new one.

As for that bolt, again, prolly have to sent it back. You could try to pull that cap. Maybe its just a threaded rod, but i think its actually attached to the plunger.

If its set properly, it prolly doesnt matter. You should not have to ever touch the BPV.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 07:59 AM
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nice job man. Wish i had those skills/time to do something like that. Looks like a fun project.... How hard is it to DIY pull/install your motor with the right tools?

Last edited by IslandZavage; Nov 19, 2009 at 08:14 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 10:47 AM
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Good luck with the swap. +1 for DIY
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 04:33 PM
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What the hec* is this thread???? What the hell you guys (binder&str8dum1) doing!!!! jealous!!! post up some MOAR pictures!!!
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by IslandZavage
nice job man. Wish i had those skills/time to do something like that. Looks like a fun project.... How hard is it to DIY pull/install your motor with the right tools?
i would say easy, but it's not all THAT easy. It's not bad though. Most of it was pretty easy but time consuming. I hit a few snags here and there that were more annoying than hard. All in all it went really smooth and wasn't the hardest thing i've done in the garage.

Originally Posted by Chef-J
What the hec* is this thread???? What the hell you guys (binder&str8dum1) doing!!!! jealous!!! post up some MOAR pictures!!!
lol, ninjas!

we are taking over the world, one built engine at a time.

str8, that sucks, i'll call vortech and see what they say. I'm sure as heck not paying the 200$ they charge for a new one! I'm really not worried about the adjustment. I set it at 6 threads showing and it seemed to work fine. I'm more concerned about this oring not saying in place. I don't see how it is supposed to stay on the face either. It just flops all around when it put it there and the BPV is manually opened it. It doesn't stay in place.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:42 PM
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a couple pics. Os giken twin disk all cleaned up and on the new motor!

One of the hardest things was getting that transmission mounted while the engine on the floor. Why was that so hard?!? It was so much easier to get it to line up while it's in the car.

Last picture, engine in the car!


Tomorrow I'll finish hooking up the wiring and it will be all ready to go. I'm pumped.
Attached Thumbnails My built engine swap-sany1119.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1120.jpg   My built engine swap-sany1121.jpg  
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 06:56 PM
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Nice. This is the way to go, and how I plan on doing it when the time comes. I have been looking at some Rev-up oil consumption motors recently. Would like to buy the entire engine with everything on it. That way the swap is nice and quick, maybe one weekend and your done. Once the motor has been rebuilt ofcourse.

It is also better to do it that way because you remember everything, and how it goes vs taking the motor out, taking it appart, sending the block in for machining...waiting...waiting and then after a while you get it back. Now you have to try and remember details from a few months back.
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