I think the stock engine decided to let go

There is no safe build with FI, but there is a safer ones.

 

I just got a pic: (sorry phone pic)

 

Thinking about getting this later:



Its 30 row engine oil cooler to withstand the 120F+ heat around here, and only for $62.00

 

That one is pretty big. you'll have to be creative in the install.

 

Update.

The engine is back in the car, just small things here and there (hopefully we finish today) and the car should be ready for the first start up.

I really hope Haltech won't let me down.

 

this sounds familiar,can't remember who had a labeling/billing issue with stage 1/2 turbos but it was a big mess for the installer..........

 

http://myg37.com/forums/vendor-comme...xperience.html

 

funny how this problem happened with the OP as well. 2 same issues, 2 end users, 1 single source....

 

Not sure if you have one already or not, but I would highly recommend using an external MAP sensor with the Haltech. Keep the vacuum line as short as possible. I just switched from internal to external MAP on my Haltech and the difference in throttle response was amazing.

 

^ so i guess your car is 100% now? no more lean spots etc...?

 

Update.

The car started fine (for five minutes) earlier today (thanks Hal for the base map).

The battery died on us and so we couldn't started it again and the fuel pressure gauge suddenly start to read zero even after connecting a battery charger, although the volts was reading 10-11V and the FSM stating the the pump voltage is (11-14V) so maybe just the low voltage!!

We will get a new battery later today and see (I really hope its not the fuel pump)


Also I got the ASCD STEERING SWITCH code!! Anyone knows where to check the problem?

 

which code number is it?

If you had the steering knuckle off you could have it misaligned which would throw a code. On mine it was an abs code that it displayed with that.

 

Update.

We change the battery and the car started fine, but the fuel pump is dying on me, we could only rise the press to 20psi and then suddenly it reads zero so we shut it down. will try to get a new one today.

I also got 4 new codes:

P0075, P0081 Intake valve timing control solenoid valve (Bank 1) and (Bank 2)

P0075, P0081 Exhaust valve timing control magnet retarder (bank 1) and (bank 2)

I couldn't clear them with Osiris although the SES light went off after pressing the clear button, but the codes still there.

 

Update.

I got a fuel pump installed and the car run fine for now (the above codes is still there) except it runs really rich ~11AFR in idle and partial throttle, but when I give lil more gas it leans out lil to 12-13AFR

will post logs later today.

The fuel regulator is set to 45psi and is not hooked to any vacuum line for now.

Any thing I need to check?

 

if it's rich just tune it leaner. dial some fuel back. simple.

 

Yea, I did pull 5% from the vacuum cells and enable the O2 correction and its better now 13.5-14afr.

The only thing that is pissing me off is the idle, it jumps up and down 1200-2100. And for some reasons I can't do the reset and re learning thing and all that stuff no matter how many times I try!!! (I won't take it to the dealer because they will f*** it up)


Also the above five codes, the Osiris won't clear them for me. I tryed to contact Uprev here, but they are banned for some reason!!

 

Contact jared@uprev.com instead.
you can do the relearn using the nissan consult at any garage man. Just tell em you wanna do the idle air volume relearn. I'm assuming that's that you wanted to do?

 

pull more fuel if it's still rich.

 

r u using haltech ?

what cams do have ?

 

check ur Decel RPM cut it should be 1400 - 1800 RPM

if its under ur stock RPM point, ull get this idle problem.

send me ur map if u need help