No, stock cams.

Yea, I'm running haltech with the HR firmware.

Smalltuner please send me your email, so I can send you the map.

Thanks everyone.

BTW Osiris cleared two codes for me (the intake ones bank 1&2 but the exhaust ones still there and the steering switch also)

The steering switch code is disabling the buttons in the steering wheel, even the buttons lights are off!!

 

Does Haltech has anything to do with the following codes (since it controls the cams) :

P0075,Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
**********
P0081,Intake valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
**********
P0078,Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)
**********
P0084,Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 2)
**********



And does the following codes considered normal with FI (since the stock ECU will see abnormal rich/lean conditions)

**********
P0131,02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor I)
**********
P0151,02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I)

 

if you're using the haltech widebands then the second set won't make much difference but the haltech shouldn't cause them. never heard of that issue.

The first couple sounds like it's something up with your cam sensors. The haltech passes the signals from the sensors to the stock ecu so the haltech shouldn't be causing those problems.

 

I hate the Haltech driveability.

 

dude i know right? sometimes i miss my utec because it was so much smoother. I am switching to an external map sensor; i hope that fixes it

ross

 

dude i know right? sometimes i miss my utec because it was so much smoother. I am switching to an external map sensor; i hope that fixes it

ross

 

I'm thinking Osiris.

 

It's not the Haltech, it's the tuner!!

 

I got the base map from Hal, which should be great!!

I really liked the Osiris when I was running the GTM TT KIT ROM file that Sam sent me when I was running the stock engine, it drove really smooth

 

A base map is just that- a base map to get you started. You will still need to optimize the tune and set up the air and coolant temp compensations properly for your particular car. Trust me, once you get it dialed in, it will run exactly like a stock car.

 

I talked to 4-5 people that said the same thing, they hate the Haltech driveability (they already fully tuned) so I don't know.

 

i thought so too.. but i've spent hours and hours on it and i'm not satisfied. the tuner couldn't get it one bit better than i had it... i hope Hal can.
The drivability isn't bad.. it just isn't perfect like i'd like it. im hoping the map sensor takes out that last little bit of lag

ross

 

Chris @Failsafe tuned mine and it runs smooth from idle to WOT. I dont have a problem with my Haltech, temps are all in check and A/F is normal. I cant complain.

There was a thread about some guy who ran a base map on his HR and blew his engine because he thought that the map was good enough. Be careful

 

Is that ^^ big ***** or are they just hangin' really low?

 

take your car to MAS tuning in Jeddah, they are equiped with a mainline dyno, professionals work there and they have several Z's with Haltechs on them. all drive great.

 

I already contacted them and I'm tuning my car there.

What I'm talking about above is the smoothness of the car, I want it to drive like stock (just like what Osiris did before) I don't want AFR fluctuation, bogs or any hiccups like what I'm having now

 

it's the tune.

i'm unhappy with my haltech right now but it's not the haltech because last may Hal had my car running BETTER than stock. It was so smooth and beautiful. Before that i had the SSbox and also osiris. Hal had it tuned on osiris and it wasn't near as good as the haltech.

It's something in the setup and tune. You're running the hks 1000's? i'm running them with a full return and twinpump fuel. Way different than my previous setup with high impedance injectors that were 800cc. I think injectors make a big difference in driveability no matter how good they claim to be.

 

I have the 1000cc HKS's with a full return and single pump.

So, it maybe the base map that Hal sent me!! Anyone care to check it for me?

I did couple of things to the base map like:

changing the injector current limit from 3-14ohm to 1-3ohm (since I'm running the 1000cc hks Low Impedance injectors).

pulling alot of fuel in the vacuum cells (around 15%) and still fluctuates and go rich!!!.

enabling the O2 correction.

This is a pic for the fuel table from the original map (unmodified ):

 

keep O2 correction off until your tune is correct. O2 correction will map your car hunt really bad if the map is st1t.

 

If you dont mind me asking what caused you to blow your stock motor? I was under the impression that the HR was alot more stout than the DE?