Any input to help me build a decent engine?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Any input to help me build a decent engine?
Firstly, I have a good source of information, but I'm just looking to expand my choices and decisions for a little build.
If you don't know me, I'm a drifter. I know wheel sizing and bumper smashing.
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This is the car now (minus some little body damage)
(My wife choking me)
I've been running a Stillen stage 3 on my car this past year on a totally stock motor with 155k miles on it and as you can imagine, its nearly dead. I knew the compression numbers on this engine were bad in February, so the Turbonetics single kit I got from a friend was a bad choice. I traded one of the owners of Project X Customs for his Stillen.
Now though, you can assume that the trans in his Automatic G35 Sedan isn't too happy about the Turbonetics and since I've found I need more power, were switching back. So you see, I need a new motor.
Basically I have a list of optimal characteristics for my setup. Obviously, dreamland and reality do clash from time to time, so my "Wants V Needs" and "Cost V Spending" kinda need to balance out. From my understanding the turbonetics kit will put me around 400hp and after driving one, I will need more than the basic kit. Earlier this month at Formula D Pro-am nationals I was being held back by my power and tires. I'm looking for a strong, high revving setup around 450hp with the ability to do over 550hp with minor changes so I can upgrade my tire size and alignment for better grip without worry of power issues. My current setup has been really balanced for the tracks I've been running... I would like to keep the nice balance with my new setup, but with just more of everything.
Car:
2003 350Z 6speed
Turbonetics Single turbo kit w/Intercooler
Goals (realistic or otherwise):
A quick spooling setup
Higher revving setup (maybe 7500 revs? IDK but higher revs would help)
A reliable setup (mostly track time, rare city driving)
More than my previous ~300 HP/TQ
A very constant power/torque curve
So far I've pieced together that I need to get:
Walboro 255lph pump
CJM Stage 0 Fuel Return
Osirus tuning software
Wideband O2
ARP Main/Head studs
(please offer alternatives to brands and such. Maybe a cheaper product will effectively suit my needs)
Also I will need this stuff, but no idea what brands/styles:
Headgasket
Rods
Bearings
Springs/Retainers
Injectors
Things I'm unsure If I need:
Valves
Pistons
Cams
Headers
What I have kinda estimated in my head:
$2800 for engine stuff (rods, springs, etc.)
$1000 (maybe?) for machine work on the engine
$500 for Osirus
$500 for dyno tuning
$700 for misc. stuff
Also, things like cooling system and drivetrain have already been modified.
My budget is in the area of $5,500 give or take so I'm trying to do the best setup I can afford to get me where I want to be in drifting. Of course, being sponsored helps my $ go a bit further, but all my assumptions to this point have been without discount.
Any help?
If you don't know me, I'm a drifter. I know wheel sizing and bumper smashing.
<object width="640" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Bn2yJC5Im4E?fs=1&hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Bn2yJC5Im4E?fs=1&hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="385"></embed></object>
This is the car now (minus some little body damage)
(My wife choking me)
I've been running a Stillen stage 3 on my car this past year on a totally stock motor with 155k miles on it and as you can imagine, its nearly dead. I knew the compression numbers on this engine were bad in February, so the Turbonetics single kit I got from a friend was a bad choice. I traded one of the owners of Project X Customs for his Stillen.
Now though, you can assume that the trans in his Automatic G35 Sedan isn't too happy about the Turbonetics and since I've found I need more power, were switching back. So you see, I need a new motor.
Basically I have a list of optimal characteristics for my setup. Obviously, dreamland and reality do clash from time to time, so my "Wants V Needs" and "Cost V Spending" kinda need to balance out. From my understanding the turbonetics kit will put me around 400hp and after driving one, I will need more than the basic kit. Earlier this month at Formula D Pro-am nationals I was being held back by my power and tires. I'm looking for a strong, high revving setup around 450hp with the ability to do over 550hp with minor changes so I can upgrade my tire size and alignment for better grip without worry of power issues. My current setup has been really balanced for the tracks I've been running... I would like to keep the nice balance with my new setup, but with just more of everything.
Car:
2003 350Z 6speed
Turbonetics Single turbo kit w/Intercooler
Goals (realistic or otherwise):
A quick spooling setup
Higher revving setup (maybe 7500 revs? IDK but higher revs would help)
A reliable setup (mostly track time, rare city driving)
More than my previous ~300 HP/TQ
A very constant power/torque curve
So far I've pieced together that I need to get:
Walboro 255lph pump
CJM Stage 0 Fuel Return
Osirus tuning software
Wideband O2
ARP Main/Head studs
(please offer alternatives to brands and such. Maybe a cheaper product will effectively suit my needs)
Also I will need this stuff, but no idea what brands/styles:
Headgasket
Rods
Bearings
Springs/Retainers
Injectors
Things I'm unsure If I need:
Valves
Pistons
Cams
Headers
What I have kinda estimated in my head:
$2800 for engine stuff (rods, springs, etc.)
$1000 (maybe?) for machine work on the engine
$500 for Osirus
$500 for dyno tuning
$700 for misc. stuff
Also, things like cooling system and drivetrain have already been modified.
My budget is in the area of $5,500 give or take so I'm trying to do the best setup I can afford to get me where I want to be in drifting. Of course, being sponsored helps my $ go a bit further, but all my assumptions to this point have been without discount.
Any help?
#2
New Member
iTrader: (11)
everyone's opinions differ slightly but I'd recommend the
Pauter or Manley H beam rods. Skip on Eagle/Scat rods. (~1000)
ARP head and main studs (~500)
HKS head gaskets (~300)
Arias Extreme Pistons 9-9.5:1 compression (~1000)
BC stage 3 272 cams (~1000)
BC springs (~400)
gasket rebuild (~300)
rev-up oil pump (~200)
ACL/cosworth bearings (~200)
DW 600cc injectors (~550)
machine shop (~1000)
If you are doing all your own assembly/labor , you could probably meet that $5500 budget for a built long block.
Pauter or Manley H beam rods. Skip on Eagle/Scat rods. (~1000)
ARP head and main studs (~500)
HKS head gaskets (~300)
Arias Extreme Pistons 9-9.5:1 compression (~1000)
BC stage 3 272 cams (~1000)
BC springs (~400)
gasket rebuild (~300)
rev-up oil pump (~200)
ACL/cosworth bearings (~200)
DW 600cc injectors (~550)
machine shop (~1000)
If you are doing all your own assembly/labor , you could probably meet that $5500 budget for a built long block.
Last edited by str8dum1; 10-25-2010 at 06:10 PM.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (23)
I think your right buy another stock engine...his goals are only 450whp
If you do want to build your engine skip the cams altogether and get Eagle rods it would be plenty for the goals......I would go with another stock engine with those goals and the turbonetics kit would still be limiting at getting 450whp.
If you do want to build your engine skip the cams altogether and get Eagle rods it would be plenty for the goals......I would go with another stock engine with those goals and the turbonetics kit would still be limiting at getting 450whp.
#7
CJ Motorsports
iTrader: (21)
call me on my cell in my sig sometime when you get a chance, i will gladly talk about all this with you. also, about 15 min from rockford is a VERY GREAT machine shop that I will refer you to for your machine work... they have done mine exclusively for several years and they are always perfect. They have experience with VQs as I have taken them there and they did flawless work. i will be bringing them a VQ37VHR block soon, maybe i can get us a deal for taking two... tho I doubt it since he is always booked deep.
also, being that im parting out a crazy *** built 350z right now... if i have the engine apart in time for your project, you could probably use a ton of my parts.
also, being that im parting out a crazy *** built 350z right now... if i have the engine apart in time for your project, you could probably use a ton of my parts.
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Oh yea, Larry told me something about this. I'll hit you up later today.
BTW, I believe we have met before. My friend brought his green Camaro to you a long *** time ago for dyno tuning... probably 04 and you had a black Z with license plate FSTASFUK or something like that registered to a civic but just had it on your Z. Sound right?
BTW, I believe we have met before. My friend brought his green Camaro to you a long *** time ago for dyno tuning... probably 04 and you had a black Z with license plate FSTASFUK or something like that registered to a civic but just had it on your Z. Sound right?
#9
New Member
iTrader: (11)
This is for a car that will get beat on pretty hard, looks caged/purpose built. You dont baby the motor drifting, regardless of HP.
I've done too many thing over and over again to waste anymore time/money not doing it right the 1st time. So that's my suggestion, like I said, everyone's opinion may vary depending on their level of risk acceptance.
I've done too many thing over and over again to waste anymore time/money not doing it right the 1st time. So that's my suggestion, like I said, everyone's opinion may vary depending on their level of risk acceptance.
Last edited by str8dum1; 10-26-2010 at 07:49 AM.
#10
New Member
iTrader: (6)
There is a reason all the pro drifters with the exception of maybe one guy use different motors in Z's. A Tnetics kit on a drift car is not the best route, heat soak, overheating, etc... the list goes on. I'd much rather beat on a Z with small twins and a built bottom end or a mid mount like BP's kit with a smaller, fast spooling turbo then a tnetics.. Good Luck either way, drifting is addictive
BP kit $4600
Built bottom end $3000
BP kit $4600
Built bottom end $3000
Last edited by Highway Riding; 10-26-2010 at 10:23 AM. Reason: just saw ur budget. Gonna be hard.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
My plan was to buy a used TT kit and hope I could make money selling the S/C to pay for the engine build, but since the single is there and ready, I figured might as well.
Besides for lag, which I don't believe will be much of an issue once I learn the new setup, the only thing I never considered was heat soak. Though, I'm sure we can figure something out with that since the car isn't bound by trying to be stock looking or even nice for that matter.
Besides for lag, which I don't believe will be much of an issue once I learn the new setup, the only thing I never considered was heat soak. Though, I'm sure we can figure something out with that since the car isn't bound by trying to be stock looking or even nice for that matter.
#12
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Cincinnati, OH
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Nackers!! I havent seen your car or rockford in a while (chicagoz). I to am getting ready to do a full build on my G and I am very interested in what you pick and what this thread yields because I want to post similar numbers and start auto crossing.
btw Osiris is a good setup, just make sure you have a good tuner.
btw Osiris is a good setup, just make sure you have a good tuner.
#14
CJ Motorsports
iTrader: (21)
Oh yea, Larry told me something about this. I'll hit you up later today.
BTW, I believe we have met before. My friend brought his green Camaro to you a long *** time ago for dyno tuning... probably 04 and you had a black Z with license plate FSTASFUK or something like that registered to a civic but just had it on your Z. Sound right?
BTW, I believe we have met before. My friend brought his green Camaro to you a long *** time ago for dyno tuning... probably 04 and you had a black Z with license plate FSTASFUK or something like that registered to a civic but just had it on your Z. Sound right?
ya give me a call whenever
#15
New Member
iTrader: (6)
My plan was to buy a used TT kit and hope I could make money selling the S/C to pay for the engine build, but since the single is there and ready, I figured might as well.
Besides for lag, which I don't believe will be much of an issue once I learn the new setup, the only thing I never considered was heat soak. Though, I'm sure we can figure something out with that since the car isn't bound by trying to be stock looking or even nice for that matter.
Besides for lag, which I don't believe will be much of an issue once I learn the new setup, the only thing I never considered was heat soak. Though, I'm sure we can figure something out with that since the car isn't bound by trying to be stock looking or even nice for that matter.
#18
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well its been a long time and I'm still waiting.
I've been MIA since my car has been down this year. No fault or blame for anyone... things just haven't worked out.
But either way, here's what I got so far.
Block I had gotten from a good friend of mine (bgood) from his wrecked Z did some playing, rather sitting, in the rain so when it got to the machine shop it had rust in the cylinders and pitting. They ended up taking it .020 over. I got some JE 8.5:1 pistons and some Eagle H-beam rods with clevlite bearings thanks to Eddie and the guys at THMotorsports. It's being assembled at Project X Customs by beard master Eli and another VQ pro who's name must be kept secret... cause I can't remember it.
Hopefully good news will come soon since my wife and I just bought a house and this garage is looking sad.
Also to answer some questions:
Where did I learn to drive like that? Gran Turismo. Nah, but if I must be honest back in the day my buddy and I would do parking lot sessions and country road shenanigans till we started going to local events and refining our skills.
How hard is it to get into?
It's pretty simple. Do some research in your area for local events. Start driving as much as possible (at the track of course). Then decide if you think your good enough and if your willing to sacrifice to take a shot to go pro. I did this last year and realized I was not ready. My will was there, but my experience, skill, car, and mental stamina was not. I was planning to work on those this year but it wasn't in the cards for me. Next season I hope I can get things to play right for me.
I've been MIA since my car has been down this year. No fault or blame for anyone... things just haven't worked out.
But either way, here's what I got so far.
Block I had gotten from a good friend of mine (bgood) from his wrecked Z did some playing, rather sitting, in the rain so when it got to the machine shop it had rust in the cylinders and pitting. They ended up taking it .020 over. I got some JE 8.5:1 pistons and some Eagle H-beam rods with clevlite bearings thanks to Eddie and the guys at THMotorsports. It's being assembled at Project X Customs by beard master Eli and another VQ pro who's name must be kept secret... cause I can't remember it.
Hopefully good news will come soon since my wife and I just bought a house and this garage is looking sad.
Also to answer some questions:
Where did I learn to drive like that? Gran Turismo. Nah, but if I must be honest back in the day my buddy and I would do parking lot sessions and country road shenanigans till we started going to local events and refining our skills.
How hard is it to get into?
It's pretty simple. Do some research in your area for local events. Start driving as much as possible (at the track of course). Then decide if you think your good enough and if your willing to sacrifice to take a shot to go pro. I did this last year and realized I was not ready. My will was there, but my experience, skill, car, and mental stamina was not. I was planning to work on those this year but it wasn't in the cards for me. Next season I hope I can get things to play right for me.
#19
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
everyone's opinions differ slightly but I'd recommend the
Pauter or Manley H beam rods. Skip on Eagle/Scat rods. (~1000)
ARP head and main studs (~500)
HKS head gaskets (~300)
Arias Extreme Pistons 9-9.5:1 compression (~1000)
BC stage 3 272 cams (~1000)
BC springs (~400)
gasket rebuild (~300)
rev-up oil pump (~200)
ACL/cosworth bearings (~200)
DW 600cc injectors (~550)
machine shop (~1000)
If you are doing all your own assembly/labor , you could probably meet that $5500 budget for a built long block.
Pauter or Manley H beam rods. Skip on Eagle/Scat rods. (~1000)
ARP head and main studs (~500)
HKS head gaskets (~300)
Arias Extreme Pistons 9-9.5:1 compression (~1000)
BC stage 3 272 cams (~1000)
BC springs (~400)
gasket rebuild (~300)
rev-up oil pump (~200)
ACL/cosworth bearings (~200)
DW 600cc injectors (~550)
machine shop (~1000)
If you are doing all your own assembly/labor , you could probably meet that $5500 budget for a built long block.
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