So the Boost bug bit.. and I've saved the cash.. it's time to buy...

So I've decided on the vortech SC kit from SuperChargersOnline - They've got a great price on it. I'm pretty convinced to buy it new, as i want the warranty on the blower.

It's the full kit so it uses the split second box, comes with the 3.33 pulley etc... Part Number: V4NZ218-050SQ
Vortech Supercharger Kit with Intercooler for 2005 Nissan 350Z (V-2 SCi-Trim, Satin)


My questions so far -
I know I will want the 3.12 pulley fairly soon... Do i just do it now, or wait a few weeks?
If i do the 3.12 pullet now, will I need anything else right away? Injectors, a tune just to drive etc...

I need to be able to drive the car in on friday, and drive it home on sunday as my shop is an hour away...

I'll have the local race shop use Osiris to tune it eventually, but probably not till feburary, when i can get a new Y-Pipe and either high flow cats or test pipes, along with headers. I dont want to raise teh rev limit or anythign wild.. I'm still paying monthly for the car.. and it needs to last a few more years...

I do need one step colder plugs correct?

I will also be installing my JWT flywheel and clutch this weekend...

I do plan on getting a few guages...
- Boost 0-15 psi
- AF Ratio (Wideband)
- Oil Temp

I do plan to add a oil cooler -
saw a few write-ups on here using some good easy to find parts.

I'd like to put on a larger oil pan while it is off to drill the oil return hole - ideas?

I do plan on headers...

Other suggestions?


EDIT: It's a 2005 btw.. with a catback exhaust, 6 speed.
i am comfortable installing this myself, as i used to build small blocks, axles etc... course those were chevy's..

 

You will always have the risk of your setup going bad no matter how safe you try too build...

Either buy another daily beater or dont go FI. Good Luck though...

 

get it tuned right away... tune is the most important thing. the generic tune is ment to get you to the shop to get a real tune.

Put an oil pan spacer that is pretapped then you dont have to drill anything.

pulley option is up to you.

If I was you I would do injectors, and a return fuel system now while its gonna be in the shop. If your gonna do it do it right.

You have an upgraded clutch? Your gonna need that.

 

I understand that, It's my own fault if I blow it up As long as i'm driving.. i can only blame myself...

 

I will be putting the clutch in before this, or right after.

I've read two sides to the spacer.. it's both good and bad...?
Some say it interfere's with the oil flowing back into the pan.. i dont see how personally...

 

if you still got payments on the car.. Id pay that off first b4 you went FI. thats JUST IMO. if u want reliability for " a few more years " i would stay with the 3.33 pulley. and id look into the v3 instead of the V2.. ( i thought they stopped making the v2 and only offer v3 blowers? )

 

I thought the V3 was only internally cooled.. wouldnt it be better to have fresh cooler oil all the time?

 

AAM oil pan spacer is whats on mine 0 issues at all. And no I dont think it will affect flowback at all.


Also def do the oil cooler. Sooner then later. If you have a oil temp gauge you will realize why very quickly

 

Can you recommend a gauge for this?

 

I have Defi and is the only one I have ever used in the Z. Zero Issues.

I have no personal experience with other ones on the Z.

In my truck I use autometer and have not had any problems with those either.

thats all I have had experience with

 

pay off the car and the mod the crap out of your Z :/

 

For sure pay off your car first!

 

As long as your motor's healthy to begin with, you shouldn't have a problem with a conservatively tuned vortech set up. Only things I would say are:
Get it tuned ASAP before you drive it. If it was my car I'd trailor it to the shop.
Get bigger injectors and a wahlbo fuel pump. Lack of fuel kills motors. You could do a return fuel system at the same time but I wouldn't, its overkill at this stage.

 

Seymore4 -

The kit comes with a in-line pump, If I get the wahlbo, would i still use the in line pump in the kit?
if I pick up some 440 injectors, will the S/S box work to get me to the tuners an hour away? Or could i keep my stock injectors in, drive to the tuners and have it tuned with the larger 440 injectors?

 

Don't listen to these haters... I can tell you from personal experience that there is nothing better than sending in that monthly payment while the car sits on jack stands with the motor blown in the garage

Again, from personal experience, it does make me feel a lot better that I was driving when this motor blew up vs the other motors

Get the AAM spacer... it works fine and is pre-tapped.

 

haha I second this execept my motors not in yet

 

just as an FYI you said you are buying new for a warranty but vortech will not warranty the blower if you use anything except the stock pulley (3.33) that comes with it. The ss box also must still have the seal on the serial port which means the tune isn't allowed to be adjusted.

Just letting you know because vortech will definitely deny warranty without thinking twice.

oh, and warranty will only cover the blower anyways. It won't cover your engine if something happens to it no matter if it was the blowers fault or not. Read the fine print on the warranty.

 

How will they know if you use a smaller pully?

 

He just told you that

 

idk. how does any manufacturer know if someone does something that voids their warranty?

sometimes there are ways, sometimes not. Like cass said, i just told you so you would know that you are buying something for a warranty and you are doing multiple things to void it so just realize that. And also realize if you blow your engine the expensive part isn't the vortech that desided to take a **** on you, it will be the engine. Vortech won't pay for anything but the unit and if your engine grenades have fun trying to prove to them that the vortech caused the engine problem instead of the engine failing causing damage to the vortech.