Purchased the Gauges and a new Y-Pipe with resonated test pipes. I currently have the RS-R GT2 cat-Back exhaust... Loud as a M f'er, but sounds sick all the way from idle to WOT...

Cant wait to get started!!!

 

I am not happy with Innovate gear. I've had an Aux box go bad and an input on an SSI-4 box go bad. They fixed the SSI4 for free as it was within a year. Then another input went bad. These are all less than 5V inputs! The aux box is not under warranty. So finicky too - sometimes would just not work and then next drive cycle it's working again. I still have 2 SSI-4 boxes reading all sorts of stuff and 2 XD16 gauges, which I'm thinking of getting rid of when the I/O box comes in for the Haltech...

 

This is normal correct -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mq-7yj7_HUU

just want to be prepared...

 

Yep they are noisey as hell at idle speeds.Damn i cant spell worth **** and am to lazy too.

 

The owner should bump up his idle.

 

Bumping up the idle requires a tune correct?

 

Any Nissan or Infiniti dealer can do it and i think Osiris and others can too.

 

Well, i'll let Osiris do it... I just paid for my tune, as there was a "deal" going for the Osiris license, and 2 hours of Dyno time to perform the tune at IntecRacing. The guy i spoke to, Lawrence, was very knowledgable and answered all my questions (before i told him i was ready to buy).
I feel comfortable with them doing the tune after i install the goods.

now to find injectors...
Will 440's work for less 400 or less HP? Or do i need the 550/600 DW injectors?

Average cost of the walbro pump?

And people were right.. I should of bought the tuner kit...

 

600cc DW injectors are the best for your setup. You will be maxing out 440's

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

IPP is selling walbros for 85.00 on sale i just picked one up

 

Belts... I'd like to find a replacement belt just to have on standby... For both the drive belt and the Cog belt...

What's the Gates part number for the standard belts with 3.33 pulley, and the part number(s) for the 3.12 pulley?

I did read you can use the same belt for both the 3.33 and 3.12, but i'd like to do it right.

Also, how will i know what "version" of the pulley setup i receive from Vortech (new kit). I'd assume it is the newest one... Is there a "fix" i need to look into for any belt slipping? I'd sure the stock 3.33 pulley wont slip, but if i go up to the 3.12... I'd like to eliminate it before it happens...

I think I found my answers...
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...thread-14.html

 

that sucks raj, i never had a single problem with any of my innovate products.

when do we get an I/O box for haltech??


also, to the OP: I used 440's on my 2.87 and it was fine. when i started tuning for heavier hp i was nearing 100% but that was with a built engine and 7500 rpm so mine was pumping out a lot more psi. When i was stock block 2.87 my 440's worked fine so a 3.12 shouldn't have any issues iwth 440's. If you don't plan on upgrading then 440's will be fine, if you plan on ever upgrading then 600's would be the cheapst long term route.

also, tons of posts about belts and such. I think the link you posted would be the right one. I'm not sure. i know it's somehwere and i don't remember what they were. GTM pulley mod works great for belt slip. I didn't have any belt slip on 3.33 or 3.12

 

Well my Gauges showed up on friday, the A Pillar gauge holder should be here monday... Guess I'll start getting the wires run...
Do i need to go from the drivers side to the pass side and out the firewall into where the battery is? is this the easiest spot to breach the firewall?

Ordered the 3.12 pulley
figure i will run teh 3.33 for a month to make sure the blower is good, then go to the 3.33 and back for a tune adjustment.

 

Down on the drivers side just forward of the fuse box there is a 1/2" gromet that can come out. I ran my wired through it. It goes into the fender well so you have you remove the inner fender and find the wires then run them up to the engine bay inside the area with the brake and clutch master cylinders.

 

How do i get the drivers side pillar off... Just a quick tug?

 

ya, pull the top out first, then the bottom will pull away from the dash towards the driver seat.

 

Received my Ichiba Y-Pipe and Test pipes w/Resonators today. Appear to be good heavy steel, and nice welds.

I'll post picks later.
They will be on the car this weekend

I need to have additional oxygen Bungs welded onto the test pipes...
Does it matter where they are welded on, as in how closely together to the provided ones?

 

i would weld them equally distance from the ends of each pipe if they are for dual wideband. Other than that you'll be fine.

 

so you guys are telling him that on the completely stock vortech (complete kit) w/ the stock ssbox and stock 3.33 pulley, he still has to get it tuned and/or upgrade his fuel system? I thought the whole point of the complete Vortech kit was that you were pretty "safe" and didn't have to upgrade anything.